Heavenly mountains of the Tien Shan. Northern Tien Shan Tien Shan reborn mountains

From the blogger's memoirs: Low emerald grass underfoot, endless blue sky above. Somewhere in the distance above the clouds, very close to space, sleeps a snow-white dragon - as ancient as our world.

The heavy silver plates of its ridge glowed brightly with ruby ​​against the deep sea of ​​the sky. The prickly, horse-bitten grass underfoot is covered with evening dew. We spend our last day in the Heavenly Mountains, remembering how we managed to climb almost into space.
The plane landed in Almaty. It turned out to be cheaper than flying to Bishkek. At night we have to get to Karakol. We drive along the Trans-Ili Alatau to Bishkek. The sun sets behind the desert land of Kazakhstan, illuminating the vastness of the ocher mountains with its last rays. The border with Kyrgyzstan at night - and we are already half asleep driving a Delika (this is an all-wheel drive minibus based on the Mitsubishi Pajero) along the Kyrgyz roads. It was one of the most difficult nights for me: the driver, a rude Russian man, apparently had not slept for several days. But the Delica is a car from Japan, with right-hand drive - and sitting in the traditional driver’s seat for me turned out to be like riding a roller coaster, the bolts of which are ready to pop out at any minute. The night was too long - both for me and for the driver. In the morning, before dawn, half asleep, I saw the soft, barely noticeable waves of the Issyk-Kul mirror. Like the crimson of dawn, a huge lake spilled over the valley. The driver feels really bad in the morning - he feels pounding, shaking from lack of sleep, and turns inside out. Cold water, nuts, wind in the face - almost nothing helps. Sometimes it cuts out right on the road, and the car is pulled to the side into a few oncoming cars. You have to push the steering wheel a couple of times to avoid a collision and wake up the poor fellow. The peak of the Crystal Mountains looms ahead with a pink jagged edge. Dawn brings life and lightness, and lets go of the fear for their children a little. An orderly row of poplars, Karakol Bay - all this is now perceived as a gateway to a new world.
The car brought us to the Khanina camp site. This is the patron saint of all local tourists. A short, mustachioed, bald man, calm as a rock, opens the gates of his house for us early in the morning so that we can prepare for our first meeting with the Tien Shan. Based on the sad experience of last night, I decide that after transferring from Alma-Ata, it would also be better to turn to Khanin. You can rent equipment from Igor, buy gas, and go into the mountains as a watchman, and in the virtual absence of the Kyrgyz Ministry of Emergency Situations, he fulfills its role. But at the same time, of course, you need insurance, ready before the trip itself.
The watchman actively smears us across the seats on the mountain road. It’s probably hard to come up with a car more suitable than the ZIL for mountain roads and making tourists sick (more likely, turning us into an omelette).
The watchwoman brought us to the Karakol mountain camp. “Alpine camp” is a loud word, there are only a few large tarpaulin tents here, but there is everything a tourist needs: food, a bathhouse on wheels (for a couple of people), a clearing for tents. The only stone structure of the mountaineering camp is the toilet.
1. Around the Karakol alpine camp it is very convenient to walk radial routes for several days - which we took advantage of. Tourists visiting the Tien Shan have a long and very strange tradition of making loops around Lake Alakol and the Karakol alpine camp. Some people are attracted by aesthetics: views of the lake from passes and snowy peaks. And for some it’s just an opportunity to gobble up another watermelon in the climbing camp after finishing the ring and drag another one to the foot of the glacier, leaving part of the equipment in the climbing camp.
So we left the delivery, prudently made sure that there were watermelons, and hit the road. From the Karakol alpine camp a path rises up through thickets, clearings and dense forests. The trail leads up through waterfalls and gorges. Further, closer to the sky, clouds. The sun here becomes brighter, there is less air, but the pleasant azure overhead gives strength to move towards the goal - to Lake Alakol. Thus begins our wonderful hike through the emerald Heavenly Mountains. It seems that an abyss separates us from distant sharp peaks floating like graceful crystal above the clouds.


2. The first few days after the city feel so unusual in this world! There is fresh air, wind in your face, hard climbs, and delicious lunches by babbling streams. You remember - and at first you don’t believe that such worlds exist. You think you dreamed. But when you close your eyes, you see and feel how the wind smoothes the grass on the peaks, and the mountains pick up the clouds, playing with them in flight.


3. The kilometer of elevation gain on the first day is not easy: we crawl like a train along a mountain path through fields of flowers, crossing streams, stopping in the shade of trees. Despite the severity of the route, you feel light and free.
4. Our reward for our efforts is a view of Lake Alakol in the evening at an altitude of 3.5 thousand meters. The lake feeds a large glacier from the Karakol wall, and it flows out into a narrow drain. It’s as if someone removed the plug from the banks - and the lake slowly merges, giving rise to a large waterfall. We decide to stand on the other side of the “drain”. It would seem that one jump and you are on the other side. But I’m very worried about my guys: below there is an abyss, the water is rushing down like a raging stream of a waterfall.


5. In the evening – our first stop on the lake shore. The Milky Way is clearly visible here, the night is cold and moonless. While I was filming, I almost sat in the lake, but it was getting cold! (however, this did not discourage the girls from wanting to swim).

6. In the morning - early rise, we climb to the Northern Alakol Pass to look at the lake from above, and descend into the Arashan Valley. “Alakol” means “Motley Lake” in Kyrgyz. And like any self-respecting mountain lake, its color changes depending on the strength of the wind, light, and weather. Meteorologists say so, but we believe that the motley lake has its own character. For example, on this gloomy day the lake seems to glow from within, not letting us get bored.


7. And someone even left a heart here.

8. Lead clouds fly from Issyk-Kul in the afternoon. As it turns out later, it’s like this here every day. The morning is clear, the freshness of the mountains, pure colors greets us, and the clouds see us off into the night, sometimes pouring rain or greeting us with snow. I am always accompanied by a couple of good angels, so I managed to capture them - they are trying to conjure the sun. Yes, yes, but did you think that only the camera takes photographs? Angels are also very important.


9. After sitting a little above the clouds, approaching the Cosmos, we slowly descend down to the Arashan valley.


10. You can hardly find greener mountains than the Tien Shan. And at sunset, the fine grass softly reflects the rays falling on it - and it seems that millions of sunbeams playfully skip between the emerald blades of grass. The mountains live, breathe and wait for the traveler, and the sun sometimes sends him farewell rays on a cool evening. Along the way we meet yurts, the Kirghiz wave warmly to us and smile with silver teeth.


11. Somewhere in the Arashan Valley there are thermal hydrogen sulfide springs hidden, but we pass by - we go around the ridge and again approach the snowy wall of the mountains.

12. The Tien Shan cannot be confused with any mountains: such an abundance of livestock, green lawns, and highest peaks cannot be found anywhere else. The pine trees in the valleys pierce the sky with tall, straight arrows, and the horses follow us with their gaze. It feels like the mountains are breathing, living – these are the brightest, greenest mountains I’ve ever been to. Even on a cloudy day at the foot of the glaciers, emerald fields of short grass spread out before the viewer.


13. And our path goes up again. We made the route in rings so that we could always go down to the mountain camp. And it’s always difficult to understand the scale when planning on a map: almost every day we had to either go up or down a whole kilometer! It’s the same today: a long, drawn-out climb to the pass among the cold mountains, under the drizzling rain.


14. High in the mountains there is a completely different world. Rocks dominate here, harsh, cold stones surround small clearings of grass. But even here streams gurgle, gophers peek busily out of their holes, and whistle warily. The whistle reflects a booming echo from the mountain range.


15. It feels like you are preparing to storm a big castle.

16. The morning greets with fog, we climbed under the very clouds. Taking the Taktyktor Pass in such weather is not an easy task. Therefore, we prepare as best we can.


17. For example, apply cream (a very important task when you have nothing to do!).

18. We storm stone walls and sharp rocks.

19. The glacial lakes under the Taktyktor pass (in common parlance - Traktor) offer a traditionally wonderful view. It feels like meteorites hit the earth and left these craters. Somewhere on the right the traces of tourists are lost, we descend along them.


20. We fall waist-deep into wet snow, it’s hard to walk. The glacier is closed, with a lot of snow - so we go in groups. We pass the remains of the first “meteorite”.


21. Wet, frozen, but happy, we get out to the open part of the glacier, where the ice under our feet is already solid. It feels like you are standing in a crystal bowl, the mountains support the sky. Here you are so close to the sky, to the clouds, that it seems you can reach them with your hand. Sasha is attempting to reach the nearest peak :-)

22. Impressive snow cornices rise on the peaks, and somewhere below, in the valley, the emerald grass is still green and the rivers are roaring.


23. Climbers and girls conquered the Traktor pass.

24. To understand the scale of the “glacial puddle”, you can look for a person in the frame. A giant dish with soft edges is attractive; between such lakes there is a complex system of ice bridges.


25. The glacier twists in tongues, cutting into the mountains with soft lines. We go down it, but the piercing wind does not let us in, greeting us with new sharp gusts.


26. But at the parking lot the sun and soft grass, flowering fields and lakes lost in pockets of moraines await us. Streams from the glacier gather into a large rapid stream, which spreads like an oasis at the foot of the valley, feeding the soil.

27. From the book about Semenov Tien-Shansky:
“From the moment Semenov saw the Heavenly Mountains, they bewitched him. He continuously looked at the snowy and colorful peaks, discovering more and more new beauty in them. Their giant horseshoe hung over the wild gardens, over the Ili Valley. Semenov saw how weightless clouds were born in dark holes. With incomprehensible speed they thicken into thunderclouds, and stifling direct showers fall on the valleys. He saw green and dark spots in the gardens; they floated over each other, connected with each other and changed colors, like waves in the solar wind. And on the left was the Kyrgyz steppe, already completely reminiscent of a foggy sea. It shimmered like the sea, with smoky air, shifting swells of sand, and wide shadows of clouds sliding in all directions.”


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32. In the evening, giant clouds rise from Issyk-Kul again. They overcome the ridges in a measured and orderly manner, waddling. It’s as if they reluctantly climb to the top. And the evening sun begins to break through them.


33. It turns out that we chose the most beautiful point for spending the night - from here you can see both the lake and the setting sun. This is a place for meditation and contemplation of wonderful natural phenomena.


34. And nature did not skimp on them: a wonderful rainbow over the Heavenly Mountains appeared for a moment in the rays of the setting sun.


35. When such wonderful things happen in the mountains, you want to jump for joy and happiness. Everything happens in a matter of seconds - but there are so many emotions: wind, rain, and snow over the mountain peaks. The light moves, emphasizing the contours of the mountains. The landscape comes to life and becomes spiritual at such moments.


36. In the evening, all the flowers drooped, the cold fell from the sky, and filled all the shadows of the stones with heavy tones.


37. And in the morning - again the warm sun, the quiet air of the valley. And only the whistle of marmots pierces the clean, clear atmosphere with an arrow.


38. One of the moraine lakes (which looked like a heart in the photographs above) reflects the deep wrinkles of the ancient mountains.


39. Our “motley lake” is very calm today. The azure sky is still lazily sleeping in the reflection, preserving the calm of the morning in cozy bays.

40. Today we have to return to the “drain” of the lake again, walk along its right bank.


41. The calmness of the lake is short-lived - after a while it will begin to slowly wake up, stretch, and again change its mood to some other color - whatever it wants today.


42. It is especially pleasant to find yourself on the shore of Alakol after the glacier - the warmth of the sun warms the soul.

43. And in the next part we will continue our journey through the Tien Shan and go to new heights! :-)

“Heavenly Mountains” are well known to any Chinese. This is what the Tien Shan mountain system is called in China. China is not the only country with celestial mountain ranges. The rocky formation crosses countries such as Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, and Tajikistan. The ridge stretches across all of Central Asia.

Features of high mountains

The Tien Shan system has many peaks reaching heights of 6000 meters or more. The unique mountains also have an amazing ecosystem. Their appearance and views are indescribably beautiful, and the pits between them are replete with lakes. There are also fast rivers at the foot of the mountains.

The total length of the ridge is 2500 km. The entire mountain system is divided into the following areas:

  • Central;
  • Northern;
  • Oriental;
  • West;
  • Southwestern.

The highest point of the ridge is Pobeda Peak. Its total height is 7439 meters. At one time, Pyotr Semenov and Thomas Atkinson were involved in research on the system. Subsequently, these figures published books about the Tien Shan mountain system, describing their travels and observations in them. They made many discoveries that helped to better understand the ecosystem of the Tien Shan range.

Famous mountain lake

Lake Tianchi is a natural landmark of China. It is located in the Tien Shan mountain system, 100 km from Urumqi. The height of the lake above sea level is 1900 meters. This is the same jade pond, the waters of which in ancient times were endowed with magical properties.

Legends say that the Goddess Sivanmu herself once bathed in the waters of the lake. The reservoir is fed by mountain glaciers, so the water in it is very clean. The nature around is untouched by man and incredibly beautiful.

In summer, tourists relax near the shores of Tianchi, but the water in the lake is not suitable for swimming, as it still remains too cold even on the hottest days.

Tianchi is a lake, looking into which you can see its sandy bottom, as well as reflections of snow-white peaks.

Climate around the Chinese mountains

The arid and sharply continental climate of the Tien Shan is characterized by snowy winters and hot summers.

The higher the mountain peaks are, the more precipitation there is. Some mountainous areas are subject to strong winds. The lowlands of the mountain range receive little rainfall and are most suitable for tourism.

Wildlife of the Tien Shan

The mountain range is listed as a UNESCO heritage site. Its territory is inhabited by ferrets, hares, jerboas, gophers, mole voles, mice, rats and poisonous snakes.

Birds are represented in the form of larks, sandgrouses, eagles, bustards and partridges. Of the large animals, the ridge is favored by brown bears, lynxes, wild boars, wolves, foxes, badgers, martens, squirrels and roe deer.

Sometimes you can see a snow leopard in the highlands. This predator is listed in the Red Book, so they are a rare guest in all their habitats.

Tulips and irises grow on the slopes of the Tien Shan. Tansy trees, cedars, spruces, and aspens grow tall. These places are full of herbs and valuable medicinal plants. During the flowering period of various herbs, the mountain range turns into a colorful fairy tale.

Tien Shan and tourism

The main type of tourism on the territory of the ridge is hiking and mountaineering. Near the mountain range in Kufu there is a Confucian temple. At some bases there are ski slopes.

There are tourist areas and hotels around the mountains. There are restaurants, nearby cities have all the infrastructure a person needs.

In some places you can ride a cable car. The most popular hiking trails are equipped with parking lots for tourists. Sometimes at high altitudes there are campsites and hotels with private rooms. The Tien Shan is so vast and unpredictable that it does not tolerate a rash approach. It is best to go to the mountains with a trusted instructor, observing safety precautions, and notifying the relevant Chinese authorities about your route.

Tien Shan has stunning views, rare nature, clean air and healing energy in the atmosphere. These mountains have always been considered one of the pearls of China, of which, by the way, there are quite a few in the country. They beckoned and beckoned tourists to their heights, opening up unprecedented places for the bravest of them, etched in their memory like the best memories.

Almaty

Tragedy at Pobeda in 1955. Tien Shan

Committee on Physical Culture and Sports
Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR
Republican Club of Mountaineers and
tourists. REPORT
about the work of high-altitude sports research
expeditions to the Central Tien Shan to Pobeda Peak
7.439.3 meters.
/ July - September 1955 / Alma-Ata
1956

Content: 1 . Brief information about Pobeda Peak. 2 . Preparation of the expedition. 3 . Expedition work in the mountains. 4 . Rescue work. 5 . Conclusions on the organization and work of the expedition. Application: A/ Political work on the expedition. b/ Research work. V/ Medical service. G/ Food range. d/ Expedition equipment. e/ Order of the Kazakh Committee on the expedition. and/ List of expedition participants. h/ Order of the Union Committee on the results of the expedition. And/ Order of the Kazakh Committee on measures for the further development of mountaineering in the Kazakh SSR.

1. BRIEF CHARACTERISTICS OF THE AREA The mountainous country of Tien Shan extends its ridges into the southeastern part of the Kazakh SSR, and its main, central part is located on the border with China, occupying the eastern part of the territory of Kyrgyzstan. Huge glaciation, high peaks and among them the highest point of the Tien Shan - Pobeda Peak - 7,439.3 meters, harsh climate, stormy mountain rivers, unknown and unexplored riches of the subsoil have long attracted the inquisitive minds of travelers, scientists, mountain climbers to the Central Tien Shan . Despite the available information about the Central part of the Tien Shan, compiled by many expeditions, the Tien Shan remains far unexplored, the most difficult mountainous region of the USSR. There are especially many troubles when studying this mountainous country due to the changeable weather of the highlands; there are not even systematic meteorological observations in the central glaciated part of the Tien Shan. The particular difficulty of working in the mountains is determined by the instability of the weather with a minimum air humidity of 90 percent, and sharp temperature fluctuations from +25 Celsius. up to -40Сgr. and the most unexpected invasion of cold fronts bringing bad weather with storm-force winds. This explains the low attendance of the Tien Shan by sports expeditions. Starting from 1921 to 1955, the region of the Central Tien Shan was visited by not much more than a dozen sports expeditions, having mastered only 9 peaks. Its highest point, Pobeda Peak, 7,439.3 m, still remains unconquered. A feature of this area is also its inaccessibility. Mountain rivers, high passes, rugged and long glaciers take up a lot of time and effort from travelers. A traveler, in order to achieve his goal in the Central Tien Shan, must prepare himself for the most varied type of movement from an airplane to a car, on horses or mules, and in all cases ending on foot with a large shoulder load in a backpack. A special place in this inaccessible area is occupied by the area of ​​the Khan Tengri peaks - 6.995m, Pobeda - 7.439.3m. etc. Geographical discoveries and descriptions of the location of mountain ranges and main glaciers date back to 1929-38. and 1943. Started back in 1902-1903. German scientist G. Merzbacher. A particularly valuable contribution was made by Ukrainian expeditions led by the now Honored Master of Sports M.G. Pogrebetsky. For the first time, diagrams and maps were drawn up about this “white spot” on geographical maps. Individual small sports expeditions, which set primarily sporting goals, sometimes supplemented and clarified information about this area. The final topographical clarification of the Eastern part of the Central Tien Shan was carried out by military topographers of Turk.VO under the leadership of Lieutenant Colonel Rapasov in 1943. This topographical group was responsible for determining the height of the peak, which was later named Pobeda and turned out to be the highest point of the Central Tien Shan. Earlier, in 1938, a group of Moscow climbers under the leadership of Honored Master of Sports A.A. Letavet tried to climb it. This was the first attempt to conquer an unknown giant. The first attempt to climb the highest peak, Pobeda Peak, ended in failure. Difficult meteorological conditions and a miscalculation in altitude led the group to frostbite on its slopes; the climbers managed to reach a height of 6,950 meters. Visits to the Central Tien Shan by climbers from Kazakhstan began in 1935 with reconnaissance of the approaches and routes to the Khan Tengri peak - 6995m. With the ascent to Khan Tengri Peak in 1936 and Chapaev Peak - 6320m. In 1937, climbers from Kazakhstan opened the first pages of high-altitude ascents in this area. In the post-war years, in 1949, climbers of Kazakhstan organized an expedition to climb Pobeda Peak. 1949 was especially different from previous years in unstable weather, heavy snowfalls and powerful avalanches. All this made the work of the climbers so difficult and dangerous, who twice fell into avalanches and from a height of 5640 meters were forced to return to the base camp on the Zvezdochka glacier - 4300 m, and then descended from the mountains with minor injuries and minor frostbite among the participants. This was the second unsuccessful attempt to climb Pobeda Peak. Climbers from Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan were persistently reconnaissance of the route to the highest peak of the Central Tien Shan. Two seasons 1952-1953 They spent time in the area of ​​Pobeda Peak, looking for ways to climb to the top, for which they climbed Chapaev Peak and Druzhba Peak and, as always, climbers had to fight the unfavorable climate of the Tien Shan. In 1954, after successful ascents to the Marble Wall peak - 6400m, Bayankol peak - 5790m. and a number of peaks in the northeastern part of the Central Tien Shan with a height of up to 5000 m, climbers from Kazakhstan went to the Pobeda Peak area with the task of climbing Khan Tengri Peak. The weather was incredibly favorable, and the climbers successfully completed the ascent from September 4 to 9. The area around Pobeda Peak was crowded in 1955. An expedition of the Kazakh Club of Mountaineers and Tourists consisting of 28 people under the leadership of the Honored Master of Sports Kolokolnikov E. M.’s goal was to climb Pobeda Peak along the eastern ridge. During the same period July-September 1955. An expedition of the Uzbek Committee for Physical Education and Sports, together with a group of military climbers from Turk.VO, numbering 50 people, planned to climb Pobeda Peak along its northern edge, and reached a height of 6500 m. Unfavorable weather and the death of the assault group of Kazakhstan climbers forced them to return without reaching the goal . This is a brief description of the Central Tien Shan region and the history of attempts to climb the highest peak in this region - Pobeda Peak - 7439m.


Sketch - page - 1
From the expedition archive

Sketch - page - 2
From the expedition archive
2. PREPARATION OF THE EXPEDITION After the attempt to storm Pobeda Peak in 1949, the mountaineering community, and with the creation of a club of climbers and tourists in Kazakhstan, this club, began studying the materials of the 1949 expedition and the features of the Pobeda Peak area. The main and main task facing the climbers was the training of high-altitude climbers. As it turned out, there are no such personnel in the republic, because... Almost all of the pre-war high-altitude climbers were lost during the Great Patriotic War. The training of such personnel began in 1950 from among capable youth who by that time had received sports ranks and instructor qualifications at the school of mountaineering instructors of the Kazakh Committee for Physical Culture and Sports in Gorelnik. Work has begun intensively to increase the ranks among the instructors, as well as among the rated climbers. For three years, climbers made ascents related to their work in the club of climbers and tourists, alpine camps up to the fifth category of difficulty, including the difficult traverse of the Talgar massif. All these ascents were made in the Trans-Ili Ala-Tau mountains. By the end of the 1952 sports season, many who were preparing to become high-altitude climbers had the second and first sports categories. At the same time, an initiative group of almost permanent composition was created, which was supposed to continue its training and improve sports technique on more complex and higher peaks. This group mainly consisted of discharge climbers: Alexandrov K., Shipilov V., Cherepanov P. Solodovnikov I., Kolodin V., Torodin R., Semchenko A., Bryksin P., Avdeev N., Sigitov B. In 1953 The Kazakh club of climbers and tourists organized an expedition to the Marble Wall area. This was the climbers' first test at altitude. The general physical and sports readiness of this group was so good that it allowed them, in not much more than a month, to make 5 ascents, including Pogranichnik Peak - 5250m, Marble Wall Peak - 6400m. and Bayankol peak -5790 meters. In the same year, part of this group ends the sports season in mid-October by climbing Komsomol Peak along the eastern ridge, the difficulty category of the latter is fifth. Four of the group of high-altitude climbers fulfilled the standards of masters of sports. At the beginning of 1954, V. Shipilov, P. Cherepanov, and A. Semchenko were awarded the title of Master of Sports of the USSR in mountaineering. The completion of five years of work with a group of high-altitude climbers was the organization of an expedition by the Kazakhstan Club of Mountaineers and Tourists to the Khan Tengri Peak. The group was faced with the task of climbing Khan Tengri Peak - 6995 m and testing themselves in meteorological conditions similar to Pobeda Peak. This ascent was decisive before the upcoming ascent to Pobeda Peak in 1955. As you know, the ascent to the Khan Tengri peak was successfully completed. With the return of the group from the Central Tien Shan, in February, the republic’s climbers began systematic training for the upcoming assault on Pobeda Peak in 1955. State trainer P. Cherepanov developed a training plan taking into account physical activity for candidates for the 1955 expedition on the basis of voluntary sports societies. The possible composition of high-altitude athletes has been replenished with candidates from among the first-class students who have grown over the past three years. Since February 1955, more than 29 athletes of the republic began training in gymnastics halls. Completion of on-the-job training ended with a fifteen-day training camp in the Trans-Ili Ala-Tau mountains with climbing peaks from the 4th to the 5th category of difficulty. By July 1, the high-altitude team of the future expedition to Pobeda Peak, consisting of twelve climbers from Kazakhstan, had completed training and was ready to leave. The lateness of the climbers from Moscow to the training camp forced them to make only one ascent to the top of the 2nd category of difficulty. In parallel with the selection and training of a team of climbers - athletes to climb to the top of Pobeda Peak. Kazakh Committee for Physical Education and Sports, Republican Club of Mountaineers and Tourists, Republican Mountaineering Section. In November 1954, she began preparing materials for organizing and conducting a sports research expedition to the Central Tien Shan with an ascent to its highest peak, Pobeda Peak. The expedition was scheduled for July-September 1955. Taking into account the peculiarity of the climatic conditions of the Central Tien Shan, the responsibility for holding the upcoming event, the Committee on Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR created an organizing committee chaired by the deputy. Chairman of the Committee Comrade S.S. Gerzhon, the organizing committee included climbers M.E. Grudzinsky, E.M. Kolokolnikov, V.P. Shipilov, M.Ya. Dadiomov, V.E. Shirkin, head of the club A. F. Tufan. All materials on organizing the expedition were widely discussed at meetings of the Republican Mountaineering Section. All decisions and discussions were aimed at improving the quality of preparation of the expedition, special attention was paid to conducting the expedition independently, i.e. using only Kazakh climbers. There were good reasons for this. Including the opinion of the entire personnel of the assault group. And also the fact that we could independently equip the expedition with everything necessary, since the Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR, by its resolution of February 18, 1955 No. 103, obliged the Kazakh Committee for Physical Culture and Sports to conduct a sports research expedition to the Central Tien Shan in the summer 1955. Through the efforts of the Republican Club of Mountaineers and Tourists, the Organizing Committee and the mountaineering community, it was possible to complete the material preparations for the expedition by July 6, 1955, within the approved plans. During this period, new types of equipment were developed, which were manufactured by Fizkultsportsnab in Moscow. The selection of food products and the preparation of horse transport have been completed. Not all was well during the preparatory period. Unexpected difficulties arose along the way, which the authority of the people leading the preparation of the expedition could not overcome. The Republican Committee on Physical Culture and Sports and the Council of Ministers of the Republic did not provide significant assistance in these matters. The resolution of the Council of Ministers of February 18, 1955 was not fully implemented: the Academy of Sciences of the Kazakh SSR, the Ministry of Culture of the Republic refused to participate in the expedition, and the Ministry of Internal Affairs of the Kazakh SSR did not fully fulfill its promises of assistance. This made it difficult to prepare and conduct the expedition, which was actually carried out by one club of climbers and tourists. Therefore, the tasks of research work and the provision of transport were narrowed, and the auxiliary group and the number of auxiliary people were reduced in general. The absence of high-lift aircraft in the Republic excluded a very important point in the approved materials of the expedition - conducting reconnaissance from the air. A big drawback in supporting the expedition was the fact that there were no small-sized and lightweight ultra-short radio stations that would provide normal and uninterrupted communication with the assault group. The existing Klein-FU-2 radio stations turned out to be unreliable due to their high depreciation during work in mountain camps. The equipment manufactured by the Fizkultsportsnab of the All-Union Committee on Physical Culture and Sports turned out to be very expensive and many important items were of poor quality and unsuitable for altitude. The most important warm equipment, such as sleeping bags and down suits, were made from second-grade unrefined eider down, which made the heat-preserving items of insufficient quality. Small-sized primus stoves, manufactured by order of the All-Russian Central Council of Trade Unions, stopped working at an altitude of 4000 m above sea level. The organizers of the expedition did not receive serious support from the Republican Ministry of Trade in the selection of high-calorie food with a wide range necessary for work in the highlands. Despite the early start of preparations, for a number of reasons beyond the control of the expedition organizers, it was not possible to complete it by the scheduled date. All work to prepare the expedition was completed only by July 6. Thus, the expedition's departure date was violated by 10 days. A commission appointed by the Commissioner of the All-Communist of Physical Education for the Kazakh mountain region checked the readiness of the expedition and allowed the expedition to travel to the work area. The progress of the training, material support of the expedition, and personnel are reflected in the appendices to this report. Upon receipt of the order of the Kazakh Committee for Physical Culture and Sports dated July 6, No. 480, authorizing and defining the procedure for the expedition, the second main echelon of the expedition left for the mountains.

EXPEDITION WORK IN THE MOUNTAINS

The entire expedition of 28 people concentrated on July 29 in the upper reaches of the Inylchek River valley at an altitude of 3000 m, in the last fir trees, in a green meadow, where a base camp was created, called “Green”. The expedition members moved to this point from Almaty in three echelons. The first echelon, consisting of five people, under the command of B. Sigitov, left Alma-Ata on July 5 by car. Their route lay through the town of Chilik, the town of Kegen, and the village of Konesovkhoz, where they received five mules and twenty-five horses. From the village Horse farm group B. Sigitov on horseback passed through Santas lane, Chon-Ashui lane on July 13 and arrived in the river valley. Saryjaz to the confluence of the Malaya Taldy-Su River, where she connected with the second echelon, having completed the task assigned to her to receive and overtake the horses. The second echelon consisting of 13 people, led by the head of the expedition E.M. Kolokolnikov in 2 vehicles, left Alma-Ata on July 6 along the route Alma-Ata - Frunze - Przhevalsk - Chon lane -Ashu – Ottuk – Kuilyu – Maloe Taldy-Su. On July 13, within one day, packs were adjusted and already in the amount of 18 people, on July 14, they left in the direction of the “Green” camp. From Malaya Taldy-Su the route lay through the Saryjaz gorge in the valley of the Inylchek River and along it to the “Green” camp, where they arrived on July 16. Before the arrival of the third echelon, the expedition members had done a lot of work in 12 days. Half of all participants returned to Malaya Taldy-Su for cargo. The other part of the participants was busy working on building a road to avoid crossing the stormy Inylchek River. Later it turned out that the chosen path along the left bank of the main source of the Inylchek River is very dangerous due to frequent rockfalls and is not recommended for use. With the arrival of horses from the second voyage to Malaya Taldy-Su, V. Shipilov’s group transferred part of the cargo to the green clearing of the Shokalsky glacier, creating an intermediate camp 3400 m, and B. Sigitov’s group with 5 horses, accompanying the group of Stalin Prize laureate B.I. Rukavishnikov ., threw about 200 kg. products to the Zvezdochka glacier. The third echelon - led by A. Semchenko left Alma-Ata on July 15. Also following the route of the 2nd echelon. The departure of the third echelon from Alma-Ata was delayed due to the delay of the expedition doctor S. Zabozlaev, sent by the Ministry of Health on a business trip and a delay in the medical examination, participant A. Suslov, who arrived late, was also delayed in Przhevalsk due to absence cars for 6 days, reaching the Green camp only on July 29. Thus, the expedition concentrated 22 days to the place of main work in the mountains, 20 days behind schedule. During this period, the weather conditions made it possible to carry out everything planned without any particular difficulties. Having held a general meeting of expedition participants on July 29 on the results of the first stage and upcoming tasks for 10 days, the expedition began the main work. Chronologically it looks like this, according to the diary of the expedition leader. July 30, camp “Green” The entire crew is busy preparing to enter the glacier. The expedition doctor conducts a medical examination. V. Shipilov's group is busy adjusting the packs. K. Aleksandrov's group inspecting, treating, and re-shoeing horses. B. Sigitov’s group putting pack equipment in order. Radio operator A. Elagin was checking radio equipment. The film group develops a filming plan. M. Grudzinsky's group is exploring the floodplain of the Inylchek River.


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July 31, camp “Green” Day of rest. All participants washed themselves in a field bathhouse and washed their underwear and socks. In the afternoon, the head of the expedition and the assault commander went to the camp of the Turk.VO expedition to organize interaction. The head of the Turk.VO expedition was informed about the plans of the Kazakh Committee expedition. August 1st The entire expedition, leaving radio operator F. Sobolev in the “Green” camp at 8-00. In the morning I went out to the Inylchek glacier. As a result of the rains, the previously built road was washed away, and large rockfalls often fell from the cliff, making the crossing very dangerous. We decided to cross the Inylchek lower, but the rising water in the river did not make it possible to cross there either. Then, under the threat of rockfalls from the slopes, the road was restored again, which took half a day. Therefore, no more than 8 km were covered that day. And an overnight stay was arranged. It rained heavily in the afternoon. August 2 The expedition caravan along the left side of the Inylchek glacier reached the intermediate camp near the ice early in the morning. Shokalsky. I reached it at 3:00 p.m. without much difficulty. On the way, it rained twice, turning into snow, covering the green clearing with a cover of 10-12 cm of snow. The horses were fed with oats. Here we met the group of B.I. Rukavishnikov. returning from above. August 3rd We left at 8:00 am. The path lay along a glacier covered with rock fragments. The horses suffered severe injuries to their legs. Despite the difficulty of moving along the Inylchek glacier, we reached the side Proletarsky Tourist glacier opposite Petrovsky Peak, where we spent the third night. August 4 On this day, the entire caravan reached an altitude of 4460m. on the Zvezdochka glacier, where a base camp with a radio station and a large supply of food was created. However, not all food assortments have been abandoned yet. As a result, K. Aleksandrov’s group went down to the “Green” camp, and A. Semchenko’s group with horses went to the ice clearing. Shokalsky. The remaining people in the Zvezdochka-1 camp. We started creating and equipping the base camp. 5th of August The whole day was spent setting up the camp, taking inventory of the food and equipment warehouse. From that day on, 4 meals a day were introduced. August 6-7 The entire crew hiked along the Zvezdochka glacier and studied the assault routes. Some of the participants participated in a film magazine. The weather condition is good. The glaciers are open, there is no snow on the surface of the glacier up to an altitude of 4800 m, and then it is dense. Avalanches occur very rarely. These days, radio operator A. Elagin was again checking the Klein-FU-2 radio stations. 8 August Group consisting of: E. Kolokolnikova, V. Shipilova, I. Solodovnikova, P. Cherepanova, A. Goncharuk, Ural Usenov, accompanied by the remaining participants in the Zvezdochka -1 camp, went out on reconnaissance. By 18-00 it reached an altitude of 4700m, where an intermediate camp with food and rescue equipment was set up. The reconnaissance group remained in this camp, the rest went down to the Zvezdochka-1 camp. As usual, the day ended with heavy snowfall. August 9 At 3-00 o'clock in the morning we reached the Chon-Toren pass. By 10-00 we reached an altitude of 5100m. under the pass where the tent was pitched. The group of V. Shipilov, consisting of: P. Cherepanova, U. Usenov, I. Solodovnikov, set out for the Chon-Toren pass. By 13-00 o'clock this group reached an altitude of 5400 m without reaching the pass. They came to the conclusion that the route for the assault on Pobeda Peak should be laid along the eastern ridge. P. Cherepanov and I. Solodovnikov stayed overnight in the Zvezdochka-2 camp, the rest went to the Zvezdochka-1 camp and reached it by 19-00 hours. Thus, reconnaissance of the assigned task was not completely completed. 10th of August On this day, news was received that K. Alexandrov’s caravan was heading to the Zvezdochka-1 camp. P. Cherepanov, I. Solodovnikov, V. Shipilov, S. Zabozlaev arrived and were busy calculating the diet of the assault group. M. Grudzinsky was engaged in research work. Film group filming general plans and panoramas. 11th August A group of 7 people under the leadership of E. Ryspaev went to the Zvezdochka-2 camp -5100m. for dropping off products. The rest were resting in the camp. 12th of August A caravan arrived from below, and E. Ryspaev’s group descended, having completed the task. Those who arrived from below were resting. Shipilov's group is busy preparing for the assault. August 13 At 10:00 am a meeting of the party group was held with the participation of activists. The issue of organizing the assault on Pobeda Peak was discussed. The meeting was very stormy. Many proposals for carrying out the assault were put forward. After heated debate, a unified plan was found. The assault begins on August 14 with a group of 16 people. The participants were given tasks in stages. The assault was supposed to begin after completing the first task of setting up a camp at an altitude of 7000m. and the second task is to carry out additional reconnaissance of the route along the eastern ridge. At 2:00 p.m., a general meeting of all expedition members was held, at which the assault plan was reported. The entire composition of the assault group approved the decision at a meeting of the party group. The condition of all participants was elevated and healthy. After the meeting, we began preparing for the assault. At 16-00 o'clock a group consisting of t.t. E. Kolokolnikova, O. Batyrbekova, V. Shipilova, A. Suslova, E. Ryspaeva, R. Selidzhanova visited the Turk.VO expedition camp. There was a message that the assault group of the Kazakhstan expedition was going out on reconnaissance on August 14, and after its completion it would go on an assault. It was also proposed that in the case of a good route along the eastern ridge, the command of the Turk.VO expedition would be informed, with a view to their possible adoption of the route along the eastern ridge. The leaders of the Turk.VO expedition decided to include 3 people in our assault group to explore the eastern ridge. August 14 Until 15-00 hours preparations were underway for the assault. At the same time, another conversation took place with representatives of the Turk.VO expedition, in particular with the commander of the assault group, master of sports V. Naryshkin. The commanders of both assault groups clarified the operating procedure of the assault group of the Kazakhstan expedition. At 5 p.m. An assault group under the leadership of Master of Sports V. Shipilov was formed. An order from the expedition command was announced under the personal signature of each participant.

ORDER
on the high-altitude expedition of the Committee on Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR.
camp "Zvezdochka" No. 1. August 14, 1955

From 6 to 12 August this year. The expedition personnel organized the Green camp - 3000 m, Zvezdochka - 4250 m and the Chon-Toren camp - 5500 m. Providing them with the necessary equipment and food, they also reconnaissance of the route to the Chon-Toren pass and laid trail through the icefall to the upper reaches of the Zvezdochka glacier. Thus, the preparatory work for the assault on Pobeda Peak is completed. Paragraph 1 To climb Pobeda Peak -7439 m, I approve the following group composition: 1 . Shipilov V.P. master of sports assault commander 2 . Alexandrov K.Ya. – “-- Deputy assault commander 3 . Semchenko A.A. --"-- participant 4 . Cherepanov P.F. –“-- –“-- 5 . Akishev Kh. I category participant 6 . Ankudimov V. –“-- –“-- 7 . Goncharuk A. –“-- –“-- 8 . Menyailov P. 2nd category participant 9 . Ryspaev E. I category participant 10 . Selidzhanov V. –“-- –“-- 11 . Solodovnikov I.G. –“-- –“-- 12 . Suslov A.D. –“-- –“-- 13 . Sigitov B.I. –“-- –“-- 14 . Torodin N.R. –“-- –“-- 15 . Usenov U. –“-- –“-- 16 . Shevchenko N.G. I category participant Paragraph 2 General guidance on reconnaissance of the route above the Chon-Toren Pass and the assault on Pobeda Peak is entrusted to M.S. Shipilova V.P. Paragraph 3 To the head of the assault, M.S. Shipilov V.P.: A./ Transfer the camp to the eastern ridge of Pobeda Peak, about 7000 m. b./ Clarify the possibility of climbing Pobeda Peak along the eastern ridge and, after reconnaissance, finally choose the route to climb Pobeda Peak along which to storm the peak V./ Upon reaching the ridge, make the final selection of the assault group, ensuring the implementation of the order of the Committee of Physical Culture and Sports to climb Pobeda Peak G./ From the participants who were not included in the assault group, create an auxiliary one, which will be entrusted with rescue functions, with the group located in the Zvezdochka-2 camp. d./ When climbing, strictly follow the instructions of the All-Union Committee for Compliance with Safety Measures, paying special attention to preventing frostbite and avoiding avalanches and falls from cornices e/ Regularly at 8-00, 14-00. and 20-00 hours local time to maintain radio contact with the auxiliary detachment and the Zvezdochka camp. Listening at 12-00 o'clock. and at 16-00 h. Call signs: “Ural” – camp, “Volga” – peak. Paragraph 4 To the expedition doctor, T. Zabozlaev S.S.: A/ familiarize the assault leader with the latest medical examination data of the ascent participants b/ prepare a first aid kit for climbing with all the necessary medications and dressings and instruct Comrade A.A. Semchenko. about the rules for using a first aid kit. Paragraph 5 I set the target date for returning from the assault on Pobeda Peak at 4:00 pm. September 1, 1955 Paragraph 6 I draw the attention of all participants in the record climb to Pobeda Peak, the second highest peak of the Soviet Union, to the responsibility and difficulty of the task assigned to them and urge them to devote all their strength and skill to the successful ascent to Pobeda Peak, dedicated to the 20th Congress of the Communist Party of the Soviet Union. I am confident that if you observe high discipline, comradely mutual assistance and awareness of responsibility for the honorable task of the Committee, you will successfully conquer Pobeda Peak. Paragraph 7 The expedition personnel not taking part in the assault should monitor the progress of the group and, if necessary, take the necessary measures to provide assistance. Paragraph 8 This order should be brought to the attention of all expedition participants.
Head of the expedition
Honored Master of Sports: /signature/ /E. Kolokolnikov/
Deputy head of the expedition
on the political side: /signature/ /O. Batyrbekov/
/Follows the signatures of the assault participants who read the order/. After the order was announced, the issues of backup communication using magnesium candles and flashlights were clarified, after which V. Shipilov’s group left in the direction of camp 4700m. accompanied by the expedition commissioner O. Batyrbekov and 3 members of the Turk.VO expedition. August 15 V. Shipilov’s group reached camp 5100m. I made the trail to the Chon-Toren pass. August 16 V. Shipilov's group reached the pass. The condition of the assault group members is good. The connection works great. By 5 p.m. the assault group reached 5850m. In the evening, the expedition commissioner O. Batyrbekov returned from under the pass. August 17 Communication with the group was cut off unexpectedly. The Klein-FU-2 radio station burned down. In the “Zvezdochka-1” camp, O. Batyrbekov and S. Zabozlaev were immediately sent to the Chon-Toren pass for the radio station located in the camp 5100m. At the same time, they received the task of establishing contact with Shipilov’s group. It turned out that the Turk.VO group, having violated the order of the Vsekomfizkult to go out for the climb in the second place, after the return of the Kazakh climbers, began the assault on August 15th. This was reported by radiogram to the authorized Master of Sports of the All-Comphysical Culture A. Gvalia. Honored Master of Sports L. Yurasov arrived at the camp to observe Naryshkin’s group. August 18 O. Batyrbekov and S. Zabozlaev returned to the Zvezdochka-1 camp and brought a spare radio station. It was not possible to establish contact with V. Shipilov’s group. We get in touch every hour in the first 10 minutes by agreement in case of loss of connection. Horses arrived from the “Green” camp, but they could not get to the camp. The rapid melting and exposure of the glacier's surface created a serious obstacle to bridging the cracks. At 22-00 o'clock signaled with light. There was no response from V. Shipilov’s group. August 19 Members of V. Shipilov’s group descended under the command of M.S. A. Semchenko as part of P. Menyailov, N. Shevchenko, R. Torodin. The group descended due to the illness of P. Menyailov and the poor health of N. Shevchenko. A. Semchenko received an order on the morning of August 20 to go to the lane. Chon-Toren and stay there according to order No. 1 of the head of the expedition. A. Semchenko reported that everything was fine in V. Shipilov’s group and that A. Semchenko had set up a tent at an altitude of 6300m. with food and fuel. On this day, it was not possible to establish contact with the assault group. At night it suddenly began to snow heavily. August 20 A. Semchenko’s group cannot reach the pass. Severe bad weather, movement on the glacier is practically closed due to poor visibility. The radio station of V. Shipilov's group does not answer the call. There is no connection. The snow doesn't stop falling. By 18-00 snow fell up to 65 cm. August 21 There is no connection. Snowfall continues. An attempt to create a path between the camps was unsuccessful. The temperature drops noticeably. At 16-00 the snow stopped, the depth was 85 cm. August 22 The snow settled overnight. With difficulty, over the course of a whole day, with the efforts of two expeditions, we made a path between the Zvezdochka -1 camp and the 4700m camp. It started snowing in the afternoon. August 23 Master of Sports A. Semchenko and his group went to the camp at 4700m. Frost in the camp -10C deg. There is no connection with V. Shipilov’s group. 24 August The group of A. Semchenko, moving towards the Chon-Toren pass, discovered U. Usenov, a participant from the group V. Shipilov, in a crack. Ural Usenov fell into a crack at 10:00 a.m. on August 23, where he stayed until 12:00 a.m. on August 24, i.e. 26 hours. U. Usenov's condition is satisfactory. Frostbitten hands and feet. Usenov reported on the difficult situation of V. Shipilov’s group. Measures have been taken to carry out rescue operations. The plane has been called. Medical assistance was provided to Usenov by doctor S. Zabozlaev, who arrived with O. Batyrbekov at camp 4700m. 25-th of August A. Semchenko’s group delivered U. Usenov to the camp at 4700m. and went to camp 5100m. U. Usenov was brought to the camp by members of the Turk.VO expedition. U. Usenov’s condition made it possible to interview him about everything that happened at an altitude of 6700m. with the group of V. Shipilov, after which he was transported, accompanied by doctor S. Zabozlaev, down to the landing site of the aircraft. All rescue operations were based on information provided by U. Usenov. Here is what U. Usenov said: “A group of 16 people, of which I was a member, acting in accordance with the order of the head of the expedition, on August 14 at 16:00 from the camp “Zvezdochka - 1” - 4200m, set out on the ascent route. After 2 hours of travel, we reached the previously established camp, approximately at an altitude of 4700 m. An overnight stay was organized here. On the morning of August 15, in good weather, we followed a previously explored route to the camp under the Chon-Toren pass - 5100 m. During the day we approached the pass, where we spent the second night. On August 16, we reached the Chon-Toren pass and continued moving along the ridge, reaching an altitude of 5800 m in one day. Here, in the evening, having set up tents, we stopped for the night. The weather was favorable. The mood of all participants was cheerful. On August 17, the entire train continued to move along the ridge. In the evening, having stopped for the night, the head of the assault group, Master of Sports V.P. Shipilov, due to the poor health of the participants Menyailov, Shevchenko and Torodin, decided to return them down in the morning, led by Master of Sports Semchenko. August 18 morning comrade. Semchenko with the group of 3 people mentioned above went down. And we, 12 people, continued to climb the ridge. On August 18 and 19 we continued to move towards the top. At eight o’clock in the evening on August 19, we stopped for the fifth night on the ridge, the altitude was approximately 6700 - 6800 m.” Question - What was the weight of the backpack? Answer - No more than 17-18 kg for each. Question - How was the overnight stay organized from August 19 to 20? Answer - At eight o'clock in the evening, on a snowy ridge, we began to set up tents. A total of 3 tents were set up. Two tents were placed side by side and one was placed 20-25 meters below the ridge conditions. Three tents accommodated 4 people each. T.T. were placed in the lower tent. SHIPILOV, CHEREPANOV, ANKUDIMOV and SOLDOVNIKOV. We were located in 2 tents at the top, in the right tent, along the rise - t.t. SIGITOV, SUSLOV, AKISHEV and ALEXANDROV. Opposite this tent were the t.t. SELIJANOV, RYSPAYEV, GONCHARUK, and I - USENOV. Question - Why was movement along the ridge slower? The answer is that after two nights on the ridge from approximately 6200 – 6300 m, participants Cherepanov, and behind him Aleksandrov, did not feel quite well enough to continue moving at the same pace as the first days. We walked, drowning in 30-40 cm of snow, and then Alexandrov or Cherepanov, walking ahead of the team, quickly got tired, they had to be changed more often than others. This, of course, slowed down our progress. All other participants were in good health. We set out on the route at 9 – 11 am. On August 19 we left after 10-00. morning. Question - What happened to you on the night of August 19-20? After dinner, at 9 – 9-30 o’clock. everyone went to bed. The weather was good. I wake up at the eleventh hour and feel stuffy and pressed by the tent. I realized that it was snowing outside and the tent was crushed under the snow. I got dressed and climbed out. There was a snowstorm on the ridge, snow was falling heavily and there was a strong wind. I took an avalanche shovel and began to shovel snow from the tent. At this time Comrade SIGITOV came out of the next tent and persuaded Comrade. SUSLOVA, AKISHEV and ALEXANDROV also get out and help him clear the tent. Following Comrade SIGITOV, Comrade ALEXANDROV got out with a sleeping bag in a training shirt, woolen trousers and paipaks, and instead of helping SIGITOV shovel the snow, he went down to SHIPILOV’s tent without answering SIGITOV even a single word. SIGITOV, seeing that he was left alone, began to help me shovel the snow. We shoveled the snow, strengthened the tent, made a barrier of snowballs around the tent, and SIGITOV climbed into our tent with me, with his sleeping bag, and we lay down. The snowfall continued and the wind gusts intensified. The tent continued to collapse. An hour and a half later the tent was crushed again, and the snow had to be cleared again. At my insistence, SELIJANOV and RYSPAYEV went outside to shovel the snow. RYSPAYEV came out wearing nothing but paypacks. They worked outside for no more than 30 minutes. RYSPAYEV stated that he had frostbite on his feet and climbed into the tent. Instead of RYSPAYEV, I went to shovel the snow, and SELIJANOV and I worked for about another hour, after which we climbed into the tent. The blizzard was exceptionally strong, the human voice could be heard at a distance of no more than a meter. Before we had time to get into the bags, we heard ALEXANDROV’s cry at the entrance to the tent: “Oh, I’m freezing,” he repeated these words several times. We untied the tent. And Alexandrov began to climb into the tent. At that moment, a gust of wind blew away his sleeping bag. Which he had not yet managed to drag into the tent... ALEXANDROV was dressed in a woolen training suit, felt paipaks and SOLODOVNIKOV’s leather hat. ALEXANDROV’s hands were already frostbitten, which I began to scrub off. He crawled deep into the tent to comrade. GONCHARUK, who continued to scrub his hands, Comrade. ALEXANDROV kept repeating: “Oh, I’m freezing, people below are dying.” I left the tent, took the rope, tied it to SELIJANOV’s legs and went down to Shipilov’s tent. A few minutes later SIGITOV came up to me. I approached the tent and shouted, SHIPILOV responded and asked me to shovel the snow at the exit. Together with SIGITOV I shoveled the snow away from the entrance and told them to get out and shovel the snow themselves. SIGITOV and I climbed the rope to our tent. Before we had time to approach the tent, SHIPILOV climbed up to us along the same rope with a sleeping bag under his arm and said, “Where to shelter?” - and climbed into our tent. He was dressed in a woolen suit and fur ducklings, and had a fur helmet on his head. Following him, ANKUDIMOV, dressed in a blue tracksuit and paypacks, climbed up to our tent. Next came SOLODOVNIKOV, dressed in a sweater, tracksuit and paypacks, with his head open, who fit into the littered tent where SUSLOV and AKISHEV were. First, I cleared away the snow from the entrance to this tent. Behind SOLODOVNIKOV stood CHEREPANOV, dressed in a down suit with a sleeping bag, and had a balaclava on his head. There was no room in our tent. CHEREPANOV began to climb into SUSLOV’s tent with his feet, but due to the fact that the tent was covered with snow and lay there, he could only climb into it up to his waist. I covered him on top with his own sleeping bag. SIGITOV and I stayed on the street. The blizzard did not weaken and also covered the tents with snow. SHIPILOV gave us instructions to clear the snow from the tents, he said: “You will have to stand all night and clear the snow.” It was snowing heavily. SIGITOV and I barely had time to throw it away. From Suslov’s tent I heard the voice of AKISHEV, who shouted: “It’s stuffy, I’m suffocating!” And Suslov’s answer: “Don’t panic.” After this, SUSLOV began to ask me for snow, which I gave him through a hole he cut in the back wall of the tent next to the window. So SIGITOV and I stayed on duty all night. At 6 in the morning, when dawn came, SHIPILOV gave me and SIgitov instructions to dig a cave. We started when we dug the entrance to the cave, GONCHARUK crawled out of the tent and began to help us. He climbed into the entrance hole and began to expand the cave inside. We finished the cave by 9-00 o'clock and began to move there from the tents. GONCHARUK and SUSLOV continued to expand the cave and improve it. ALEXANDROV was the first to be resettled, to whom SIGITOV gave his sleeping bag at that time. His hands were frostbitten, he behaved as if in “tetanus”, and did not react at all to his surroundings. The second one was moved to CHEREPANOV’S cave. At the time of relocation, Cherepanov offered any money for me to get him shackletons. He behaved just as indifferently. After CHEREPANOV, SOLODOVNIKOV crawled out of the tent, standing near the entrance to the cave and asked: “Where is the cave?” I almost had to push him into the cave. AKISHEV crawled out of the tent with a swollen face, wearing a down jacket, wearing one arm, a balaclava on his head, and Shackletons. He looked confused, his eyes wandered, when we wanted to help him put on his jacket, he fought us off, was looking for something, when we asked what he was looking for, he did not answer, continuing to look. We dressed him, and he climbed into the cave with a sleeping bag. Shaking out SUSLOV's tent, we threw a primus stove and gasoline into the cave. Following AKISHEV, SHIPILOV crossed into the cave, and as he walked, he gave instructions to SIGITOV and me to go down for help. At the same time telling everyone who could come down. SIGITOV and I pulled the rope out of the tent and tied up. We invited him to come down with us, he did not object, but said that he could not go down, since he did not have shackletons. I went down to SHIPILOV’s tent, found one SOLODOVNIKOV shackleton, SHIPILOV’s camel and red sweaters, a couple of paypacks, a box of cigarettes and handed everything over to SHIPILOV. Following SHIPILOV, ANKUDIMOV jumped out of our tent and said: “Why should I die?” - he rushed and climbed through the entrance to SUSLOV’s cut tent, immediately began to crawl back out, got confused and could not get out for a long time. He came out with a wandering eye. While I was at SHIPILOV's tent, RYSPAYEV and SELIJANOV were taking down our tent. GONCHARUK, ANKUDIMOV, RYSPAYEV, SELIDZHANOV decided to go down with us and SUSLOV tied himself to the middle of our rope immediately after SHIPILOV’s words that everyone who can can go down. During these conversations, CHEREPANOV told SIGITOV that he SIGITOV “has no right to go down, because must transport him down, CHEREPANOV.” Before leaving, SIGITOV and I shook out all the food in our backpacks from our backpacks in the cave. Along with the products there was a large amount of terminite. I only took four cans of gasoline, a Primus stove and 2 cans of condensed milk. At ten o'clock I, SIGITOV and SUSLOV began to descend. SIGITOV and I had backpacks. We had a sleeping bag, liner and down cover. Everyone was dressed warmly. Following us were GONCHARUK, ANKUDIMOV, RYSPAYEV, SELIDZHANOV. The second group had a tent in RYSPAYEV’s backpack. RYSPAYEV was first in the last combination with SELIJANOV. After walking 100m, our group stopped, waiting for the other two groups. At that time I heard SELIJANOV’s words: “visibility is bad, it’s impossible to go down.” GONCHARUK said: “Rather than die on the road, it is better to die in a cave.” They began to persuade us to return, we did not agree and they turned around and went back, when Goncharuk, walking up from behind, disappeared from sight, we went down. Question: What route did you decide to go down and how did you organize the descent? Answer - We decided to descend only along the ascent route. The first day I, SIGITOV and SUSLOV descended to an altitude of 6300 m and spent the night in a small snow pit dug out, because... there was no tent, it remained with RYSPAYEV. In the morning Suslov woke up first. I was hanging around our place for the night, warming myself up. He said that he was probably sick. The storm did not subside, there was severe frost. We tried to eat canned food, but it was frozen and we didn’t eat it. While descending the ridge, there was a small argument between us about the correctness of our movement. I felt that we were deviating from the ascent route, going to the right. SUSLOV and SIGITOV argued: we need to go more to the right, which they insisted on. We walked 200-250m. SUSLOV and SIGITOV were convinced that we were descending the wrong way towards China and began to return to the ridge. Having climbed the ridge, Suslov fell at the beginning of the twelfth hour. We lifted him up, and he moved for some distance, supported by a taut rope. At approximately 11-30 o'clock. he fell again, when we approached him he was without gloves. My hands were frostbitten. SIGITOV and I rubbed SUSLOV’s hands and put woolen socks on his hands. SUSLOV said nothing and was in a state of oblivion. We tried to raise him, he squatted down and said something incoherent - he muttered, his eyes were closed. SIGITOV offered to put him in my sleeping bag, we put him in the bag without undressing him, together with shackletons, and put a backpack on his feet on top of the sleeping bag. At 12-00 o'clock SUSLOV opened his eyes; they were without any expression. He made a grimace and bowed his head to his chest, blood began to flow from his nose. We have determined that he died. SIGITOV invited me to stay with SUSLOV’s corpse, and he decided to go down to the lower camp for help. I said that it was dangerous to go down alone, we must go together. SIGITOV said that we can’t leave the corpse, otherwise we won’t find it later. At 16-00 o'clock SIGITOV went down the ridge. Visibility was poor. I saw how SIGITOV left in the direction of the Military Topographers Peak, because. this peak cleared up at this time. SIGITOV was dressed warmly. He had an ice ax with him, but no food. I sat next to Suslov’s corpse all day and night. Only the next day, i.e. On August 22, at 10-11, I decided to go downhill, because... I felt that if I stayed another night, I would freeze. I went down the ridge. On some difficult ice sections, I walked facing the slope and used an ice ax. Before reaching the first camp - 5800 m, I saw footprints, obviously SIGITOV, knocked out with socks. They ended with a sliding or braking groove. These tracks ended on the eastern side of the Chon-Toren glacier. When I came down, the day was sunny. Having descended on August 22 at 4:00 pm from the Chon-Toren pass, I did not find our camp under the pass. During the descent I lost my glasses. The sun was blinding. I walked along the Zvezdochka glacier all night from August 22 to 23, falling into waist-deep snow. 23 in the morning at 10-10 o'clock. It was sunny, I couldn’t see well without glasses, I was near the trough and suddenly fell into a crack. It flew 13-14 meters and fell into the water. I tried to get out with an ice ax, but I was very weak and my repeated attempts to get out ended in failure. I sat in the crack for 26 hours. On August 24 at 11-12 I heard screams. Comrade MENYAILOV and SHEVCHENKO lowered a rope to me, to which I tied myself and was pulled out of the crack.


List of assault participants
From the expedition archive


Task No. 1
From the expedition archive

RESCUE WORKS

Traces of Usenov Ural at 19-00 o'clock. On August 23, they were noticed by a member of the expedition of the Uzbek Republican Committee of Physical Culture and Sports, Comrade Naryshkin. The group of A.A. Semchenko informed them about this. Arrived at the camp 4700 m. on the orders of the head of the Kazakh expedition, Comrade Kolokolnikov. With the task of going up to establish contact with V.P. Shipilov’s group. Mountaineers Shevchenko N.G., who set off on skis on the morning of August 24 and Menyailov P.M. They extracted Usenov U. from the crack, who reported the above events with the assault group of Comrade Shipilov. Further rescue and search operations were carried out by the combined forces of two expeditions until August 28 under the joint leadership of the heads of the two expeditions, and later, due to the illness of Comrade Kolokolnikov, under the leadership of the Honored Master of Sports Comrade V.I. Racek, appointed head of rescue operations by order of the head. Department of Mountaineering and Tourism of the All-Union Committee Comrade B.A. Upenek On August 25, after transporting Comrade Usenov, in satisfactory weather, A.A. Semchenko’s group, reinforced by members of the expedition of the Uzbek Republican Committee, again headed to the upper reaches of the Zvezdochka glacier. On the morning of August 26, the climber Menyailov, who was advancing on skis, discovered a footprint in the area of ​​the upper icefall of the Zvezdochka glacier, and soon the corpse of a member of the Kazakh expedition assault group, Comrade A.F. Goncharuk, who died, as was later established by a medical examination, from exhaustion and hypothermia. Leaving a corpse on the glacier, on August 26, the group of Semchenko A.A. reached the camp at 5100 m under the pass. The next day, she was joined by a group of master of sports V.N. Naryshkin, 4 people, with a radio station. In conditions of deteriorating weather, intermittent snowfalls on August 27, 28, 29 and 30, the combined group did not attempt to climb the Chon-Toren pass and the eastern ridge, fearing avalanches. August 31 group Semchenko A.A. – Naryshkina V.N., by order of Comrade Racek, they were recalled down for rest. The assault group of the Uzbek expedition was recalled down the northern edge of Pobeda Peak on August 25 and descended to the expedition base camp on August 26. From its composition, a rescue squad was organized on August 27. The leader of the team of 8 people was the master of sports Nagela E.I. . They were given the task of following the ascent route of V.P. Shipilov’s group. The detachment arrived at the camp at 4700 m on the same day. Its further advance up to the camp at 5100 m was extremely slow and ended on September 1. Despite the fact that the auxiliary groups of climbers under the leadership of Comrade. Snegireva N.A. proved in these same days the possibility of completing this path in a much shorter time. Detachment Nagel E.I. On September 1, I walked lightly to the foot of the Chon-Toren pass and, having stated the impossibility of further advancement due to the danger of avalanches, returned to the tents, and on September 2 of this year. the base camp was withdrawn. On August 31, a combined rescue team formed in mountaineering camps near Almaty arrived at the expedition’s base camp, 4200 m. On September 1, a group of climbers from this detachment, consisting of 8 people, under the leadership of the master of sports Shumikhin, took part in transporting Goncharuk’s corpse. On September 2, she reached camp 5100 m, and the next day, with 4 people, she went to the Chon-Toren pass and on the same day, having found no traces of members of Shipilov’s assault detachment, returned to camp 5100 m. On September 5, she arrived at camp 5100 m. rescue team of participants of the Pamir expedition of the All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions. The next day, accompanied by an auxiliary group, the rescue squad climbed to the Chon-Toren pass and spent the night there. On September 7, climbers of the Pamir expedition of the All-Russian Central Council of Trade Unions, under the leadership of Honored Master of Sports Kuzmin K.K., began climbing the Eastern ridge of Pobeda Peak. As a result, it was found out. September 4 - at 17-35 p.m. the detachment left the camp 4200m. on the Zvezdochka glacier as part of groups of t.t. SNEGIREV, UGAROV, and KUZMINA. September 5. All groups left the camp at 4500m. at 9-45 o'clock consisting of 24 people. At 13-00 o'clock On the glacier we met a group of Comrade. SHUMIKHIN, going down, motivating the descent by the fatigue and ill health of the participants. He ordered the three most unwell comrades to go down with Comrade Comrade. NOZDRYUKHIN and FREIFELD, the rest 5 people. return with us to the pass. To the camp at an altitude of 5100m. We arrived at the Zvezdochka glacier circus at 5-3 p.m. Group comrade SNEGEREVA, leaving the groceries at 5:45 p.m. went down. The snowfall began at 15-00, intensified at 18-00, and stopped at 22-23. 6 September. From camp 5100 m at 11-30 am. An assault search group of 7 people came out, accompanied by 3 people gr. UGAROV and 3 people from SHUMIKHIN’s group. All along the way to the pass there was deep, waist-deep, fresh snow. There are no signs of avalanche danger. 50 m before the exit to the pass and on the pass itself there was a weathered crust. Temperature at 15-00 o'clock -7C, temperature at the pass at 19-00 o'clock -15C. On the approach to the pass and, especially on the pass itself, a constant strong westerly wind blows snow. The height of the Chon-Toren pass is 5550 m. We climbed the pass at 17-45 hours. The accompanying groups of 6 people, leaving food and taking the boots of the assault group, began their descent from the pass at 18-00. September 7. We left the lane. Chon-Toren at 11-15. There is a strong wind on the ridge, frost -13C. The eastern ridge is very steep, up to 55 degrees in places. The snow condition is uneven - from dense icy crust to deep coarse-grained snow. We walked on crampons. Along the entire route there are traces of SHIPILOV's group, tin cans, pieces of paper, etc. At an altitude of 5800 m, traces of a bivouac were found - a platform for 2 tents, and a little higher there were two more sites for one tent each. At an altitude of 6000 m, on a steep drop in the ridge, a broken pin of an ice ax was discovered. Attempts to discover the corpse of Comrade. SUSLOVA in the camp area 5800m. did not yield any results, and searches on the rocks above the camp at 5800m also did not yield results. At an altitude of 6000 m the weather deteriorated sharply and a snowstorm began. We stopped for the night at black rocks at an altitude of 6150 m. There was always a very strong wind and snowstorm. Temperature - 18C. At an altitude of 5950 m, traces of descent were found leading to a cliff, a snow dump, onto the V. Chon-Toren glacier. 8 September. We left the bivouac at 6150 m at 11:30 am. Blizzard, temperature -13C. Having risen to 30 m, we found the 2nd bivouac of SHIPILOV’s group - 3 sites, on one of which there was a completely collapsed tent full of various things and products, including: binoculars, down mittens, socks, cats, and a wide variety of products, including chocolate . Probing the snow around the sites yielded nothing. Having climbed the flat part of the ridge, at an altitude of 6250 m they discovered the corpse of a frozen man, whom they could not identify. The man was lying with his face buried in the snow. There were traces of abrasions and previous frostbite on the hands on the face. He was dressed in a storm suit, a down jacket and shackletons. Down pants were lying 50 m above. Another 100 meters higher, along the way, there were broken bottles of medicine and a pencil lying around. Having risen further, to an altitude of 6600 m, they discovered a second corpse, which they also could not identify. The man was lying in the area of ​​the 3rd bivouac gr. SHIPILOV in a pose indicating that he either went to bed or wanted to hide from the bad weather in this way. An ice ax was stuck near him. He was wearing a down and storm suit, shackletons, and glasses. Traces of abrasions and frostbite were found on the face, and hands dressed in fur mittens were also frostbitten. A bowl and food remains were found in the bivouac area. Having risen to an altitude of 6700 m, approximately 50 m below the exit to the summit ridge, we discovered the last 4th camp of SHIPILOV’s group. The camp consists of 2 sites on which there are two tents torn to shreds. Various things are scattered on the sites, including down suits, ice axes, shackletons, crampons, and a large number of different products. A large niche was dug near the upper tent, in which many things and products were found. Attempts to discover a cave in the rocks or near the rocks, about which USENOV allegedly testified, did not yield any results, and in general it would be difficult to dig a cave in these rocks. About 20 meters below the lower tent, on an ice ax, a rope of double length is attached, which descends along the rocks and ends in an icy couloir leading to the faults of the north-western wall of the ridge. At the end of the rope is a backpack. Traces of descent onto a snow plateau were also discovered. To the east of the ridge, the Chinese wall, they began at an altitude of 6600 m. Immediately after moving away from the ridge, these traces are lost. It was not possible to find any other traces of SHIPILOV’s group being here, as well as the corpses of the remaining participants. Due to the complexity of the ridge and the extremely difficult weather conditions in which the search team had to work, lowering the two discovered corpses down could certainly lead to accidents with the rescue team and, in any case, to inevitable frostbite. Considering the above, I decided to bury the found climbers on the ridge, which was done at an altitude of 6250 and 6600 m. Photos and films of corpses, burial sites, bivouacs, etc. were taken. Having completed the search work in the bivouac area at an altitude of 6700 m at 19-30 p.m. group at 22-30 p.m. descended to a height of 6250m, where I spent the night. 9th of September. The descent from a height of 6250 m began at 11-30. On the way to an altitude of 6100 m, the ridge and slopes going to the east, China, were additionally carefully examined in order to discover the corpse of Comrade. Suslov, however, inspection of the slopes did not yield any results. At 17:00 the group descended to the Chon-Toren pass and at 20:00 to the camp at 5100 m. During the descent there was a snowstorm and hurricane-force winds blew along the entire ridge. 10 September. Together with auxiliary groups, the camp at 5100 m was removed and along the way the camp at 4500 m and all search parties were removed by 17-30 hours. We descended to the camp at 4200 m on the Zvezdochka glacier. 1. The events that marked the beginning of the death of SHIPILOV’s group occurred in the 4th camp at an altitude of 6700 m and were, of course, associated with bad weather. 2. SHIPILOV's group, which did not have high-altitude acclimatization before setting out on the route, climbed the ridge and quickly lost strength and reached the camp at 6700m. came to the main team significantly weakened. This is evidenced by a sharp drop in altitude gain by days of movement:
  • Day 1 - 700 m.
  • Day 2 - 480 m.
  • Day 3 - 400 m.
  • 4th day - 100 m.
="ul"> 3. Having encountered difficult trials, deteriorating weather at an altitude of 6700 m, individual participants and the group as a whole were unable to withstand them, having everything they needed, they turned out to be powerless in the face of the elements. The inactivity and panic of individuals, intensified by the effect of the heights, apparently did not meet with resistance from the entire team, which turned out to be disjointed and unfriendly, falling apart at the first difficulties. Head of the assault comrade. SHIPILOV, apparently, failed to organize and direct the group to fight the elements and thus did not fulfill his main duties. As a result of this situation, individual participants, at their own peril and risk, began to save their lives by unorganized flight. This is evidenced by frozen people found alone and without full equipment and a series of tracks leading in different directions from the camp at 6700 m. 4. The fate of the 8 undetected members of SHIPILOV’s group, according to search data, appears to be as follows: A/ 6 people died while trying to descend from the camp at 6700 m, and some of them fell to the northeast. wall. This is evidenced by the rope left for descent, which is mentioned above. Keeping in mind that none of these 6 participants used an ice ax or crampons during the descent, they all remained in the camp at 6700m, and their shoes were on rubber soles, it is clear that once they got onto a steep icy slope, they had no opportunity to linger and fell down. b/ Comrade SIGITOV, according to Comrade. USENOV, who began a single descent along the ridge from an altitude of 6200 m, lost his orientation and, reaching the faults to the right of the true path at an altitude of 5950 m, fell onto the V. Chon-Toren glacier.
This is evidenced by the traces found in this place and ending at the fault. V/ corpse of comrade SUSLOV, according to USENOV, who died after an erroneous descent to the east from the ridge and a return ascent to a height of 6200 m, may be located on the eastern slopes of the ridge. 5. Despite the presence in the area of ​​the Zvezdochka glacier of a large number of qualified climbers, the Turk.VO expedition, it is necessary to note a significant delay in the deployment of active search work in the area of ​​the accident. The work essentially began only with the arrival of the All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions detachment at the Zvezdochka glacier, that is, after 11 days after receiving the first information about the disaster. Timely entry of search groups to the ridge could have saved the lives of some of the dead members of the group. SHIPILOVA. The references to bad weather and avalanche danger in this case cannot be considered satisfactory. Moving along the ridge on September 7-8. Search group of comrade KUZMIN K.K. discovered the location of all the camps of the assault group of V.P. Shipilov. The group found tents with food and belongings in the auxiliary camp at an altitude of 6130 m and tents of the 4th camp at an altitude of 6700 m, the corpses of climbers V.G. Ankudimov - altitude 6250 m and P.F. Cherepanova. - altitude 6600 m, died while trying to descend. Traces indicating attempts by other participants in the assault to descend towards the northern wall of the eastern ridge of Pobeda Peak and to the upper snow fields of the Chon-Toren glacier. Burying the corpses of Ankudimov V.G. and Cherepanova P.F. on the ridge. Having carried out an examination, photography and filming of the camp sites. Group Kuzmin K.K. On September 9, she descended to the camp at 5100 m. And on September 10, all rescue and search teams concentrated in the base camp of the expedition at an altitude of 4200 m. On the same day, by the decision of the operational group to manage rescue operations related to the search for the group of V.P. Shipilov. and further search work was stopped. Based on the testimony of climber Usenov U., materials presented by rescue and search teams, the death of climbers participating in the assault group of the expedition of the Kazakh Republican Committee, which included: Shipilov V.P., Aleksandrov K.Ya., Solodovnikov I.G., was established. , Goncharuk A.F., Ankudimov V.G., Akishev Kh.A., Sigitov B.I., Cherepanov P.F., Suslov A.D., Ryspaev E.M. and Selidzhanov R.M. Of them: The body of Goncharuk A.F. discovered in the upper reaches of the Zvezdochka glacier on August 26. Transported and buried in Alma-Ata.
Body of Ankudimov V.G. discovered on the Eastern ridge of Pobeda Peak at an altitude of 6250 m and buried on the spot.
The body of Cherepanov P.F. discovered on the Eastern ridge of Pobeda Peak at an altitude of 6600 m and buried on the spot.
The body of A.D. Suslov, according to U. Usenov’s testimony, is located on the southern slope of the Eastern ridge near camp 6180 m. The location of the bodies of the remaining seven dead expedition members could not be determined. The commission to investigate the accident, composed of honored masters, chaired by Beletsky E.A. She recognized the progress of the rescue work as insufficiently organized, writing down the following in her conclusions: The leaders of the rescue and search work, t.t. Ratsek V.I., Yurasov L.B., heads of rescue teams and groups Semchenko A.A. and Nagel E.I. from the moment of discovering Usenov U. and receiving information from him about the emergency situation of V.P. Shipilov’s group. until September 3, work was carried out at an unacceptably slow pace. At the same time, sufficient persistence was not demonstrated in achieving the set goals. The danger of avalanches from the slopes of the Ak-Tau peak and the Chon-Toren pass, supposedly excluding the possibility of movement of rescue teams, was overestimated. At the same time, the climbers who were part of the teams had sufficient technical and tactical training and material support to move along the relatively simple profiles of the upper reaches of the Zvezdochka glacier and reach the Chon-Toren pass in conditions of rescue operations. Comrade Ratsek V.I. did not show sufficient persistence during the first period of search work from August 25 to September 3 - 1955, when organizing search groups to go to the Chon-Toren pass and higher could have saved the lives of a number of comrades. Comrade Yurasov L.V. as the head of the rescue squad of the expedition of the Uzbek Committee and a member of the Presidium of the All-Union section, knowing about the Committee’s instructions about the order of climbing Pobeda Peak, he did not take measures to prevent this violation by climbers of Uzbekistan, and did not show activity in search and rescue operations. Comrade Semchenko A.A. violated the order of the head of the expedition by leaving the Zvezdochka-2 camp - 5100 m, which was planned as an observation point. Comrade Nagel E.I., who had at his disposal a detachment of the most qualified climbers, carried out rescue work unacceptably slowly, overestimating the avalanche danger, and incorrectly informed the management of rescue work about the impossibility of reaching the Chon-Toren pass. With the cessation of search and rescue operations, the remaining members of the expedition of the Republican Club of Mountaineers and Tourists began evacuating the expedition from the area of ​​the Zvezdochka glacier to Almaty, where they arrived. 4. CONCLUSIONS ON THE ORGANIZATION AND WORK OF THE EXPEDITION. On organizing an expedition to Pobeda Peak. Workers of the Republican Club of Mountaineers and Tourists of the Kazakh SSR, headed by its boss, A.F. Tufan. Despite the many difficulties that faced them and were beyond their control. Exceeding their strengths and capabilities. They did a lot of work and in a short time created the material base of the expedition such that it allowed the inspection and control commissions to make fair conclusions that the expedition was organized as one of the best in the entire practice of sports expeditions of the USSR in terms of equipment, food, and pack transport. However, despite all the efforts of A.F. Tufan, it was not possible to carry out some issues outlined in the plans and calculations of the expedition. The high-altitude equipment ordered in Moscow through Fizkultsportsnab, such as sleeping bags and down suits, despite their high cost, were made using second-class eider down. These things did not look good, and in low temperatures they turned out to be permeable to the cold. Tents and storm suits were not impregnated to protect them from water. Lack of conscientiousness in fulfilling the special order on the part of Fizkultsportsnab seriously increased the transfer of difficulties in conditions of sharp climatic fluctuations. Planned aerial reconnaissance of the route for the assault on Pobeda Peak from the air. Due to the lack of aircraft with a ceiling above 8000 m in the Kazakh SSR, it was also not carried out. This significantly weakened the ability to correctly determine the assault route and especially its details. An extremely serious flaw in organizing the expedition was the issue of communication. The lack of small-sized radio stations made in the USSR forced the organizers of the expedition to use the Klein-Fu-2 stations; as we now know, from the conclusions of the commission, stations of this type do not justify themselves. The lack of redundant means of communication increased the difficulty of the expedition's work in the mountains. A particularly unfinished issue in organizing the expedition should be noted about the transportation of the expedition by vehicles. Sending the expedition in 3 echelons due to the lack of a sufficient number of vehicles did not justify itself, and moreover, it led to delays and disruption of the expedition’s work schedule. Pointing out the above shortcomings in organizing the expedition, one cannot fail to note the good experience in organizing several expeditions conducted by the club; a relatively small team of workers of the Republican Club of Mountaineers and Tourists managed to accumulate experience and it can be said that in the future this experience, of course, will find its practical use application. Due to the catastrophic death of the group of Master of Sports V. Shipilov, the planned work of the expedition in the mountains was incomplete and not fully completed. The work of the expedition continued to proceed in the direction of further study of the Central Tien Shan and training of new cadres of high-altitude climbers. It took place in 1955 under difficult conditions. A cargo weighing 8 tons, with 28 people and 30 horses, was successfully transferred to strong points with enormous efforts from the entire crew. During the preparatory move, scientific research work was also carried out, thus, with the exception of completing the ascent to Pobeda Peak, the expedition completed the assigned work. All conclusions characterizing the work of the expedition are built around the accident. Analysis of the accident with the group of master of sports V. Shipilov, by studying all the facts of the expedition’s work in the mountains, made it possible to approximately explain the cause of death. This is reflected in the conclusion of the commission investigating the disaster with the assault group of the Kazakhstan expedition, which primarily notes the reason that lies in the group itself. The conclusion states: 1. The physical condition of the members of V. Shipilov’s group and its provision of equipment and food at the time the weather worsened was such that, with the correct actions of its leader’s group, there was every opportunity to prevent a disaster and save the lives of the ascent participants. The group could, taking refuge in tents or snow caves, wait out the storm and make a descent on their own or with the help of rescue teams. Proof of this possibility is the example of the assault group of the Turk.VO expedition, which successfully survived the same bad weather. 2. The presence of two expeditions that had the task of completing the ascent to Pobeda Peak created unacceptable competition and the development of sports excitement in the group. 3. The leader of the assault group, Master of Sports V. Shipilov, failed to cope with his duties in a difficult situation and made a number of serious mistakes, which led to the disunited action of the group. 4. Violation of the tactical plan of the assault by the leadership of the expedition also led to the physical weakening of the group, which reduced the group’s resistance during bad weather. However, the lack of facts about the actual action of the group at an altitude of 6.700 after the departure of U. Usenov does not make it possible to finally and affirmatively find the correct conclusions about the death of V. Shipilov’s group. However, all previous issues related to the disaster of the assault group should be carefully studied when organizing expeditions to the Central Tien Shan. Despite the fact that the expedition of the Kazakh Committee for Physical Culture and Sports ended in disaster in the sports part of its work, its experience and its work provide enormous material for reviewing the issues of high-altitude ascents in the USSR and makes a huge contribution to the most difficult sports events such as high-altitude mountaineering. Head of the expedition
Honored Master of Sports: / signature / /E. Kolokolnikov /
1956

On political and educational work among participants in the high-altitude sports and research expedition to Pobeda Peak /July-September 1955/

The expedition began its work on July 1, 1955. 28 people took part in its work. Of these, there were 6 members of the CPSU, 8 members of the Komsomol. Even before leaving the mountains. Party and Komsomol groups were organized in Alma-Ata. Comrade ALEXANDROV was elected party organizer and Comrade AKISHEV as Komsomol organizer. The expedition participants took 2-4 books with them to the expedition area, including political and fiction. The Komsomol Central Committee supplied the expedition with sets of the Ogonyok and Crocodile magazines for the second half of 1954 and the first half of 1955. The expedition took a volleyball with a net, chess and the necessary materials for publishing wall newspapers. Us before leaving the mountains. Alma-Ata, a plan for mass political work was drawn up, which was approved at a meeting of the party group. This plan has been largely completed. The main difficulty for its complete implementation was that the expedition members stayed and moved together for only 9 days. The expedition left the city of Alma-Ata in three echelons on July 5, 6 and 15, and only on July 29 did they all concentrate together on the “Green” camp. We were in the “Green” camp on July 30 and 31, and from August 1 to 4, everyone moved together along the Inylchek glacier to the foot of Pobeda Peak. During the expedition, 4 party meetings were held, at which the following were discussed: “Plan of mass political work”, “Results of the first stage of the expedition”, “On the organization of the assault on Pobeda Peak”, etc. Similar issues after party meetings were discussed at general meetings . A number of conversations were held. For example: “Results of the July plenum of the Central Committee of the CPSU”, “On the conquest of Mount Everest”, “How the assault on the peak of Khan Tengri was organized in 1954” and others. Political information was held once every 2-3 days. We took material for political information on the radio via walkie-talkies. In the Zeleny camp, on July 31, the first issue of the combat leaflet was issued. Chess and volleyball games and chess competitions were held. Whenever possible, especially in the evening, collective singing of songs was organized. The singing of songs was organized by Comrades Usenov, Ryspaev, Akishev and Shipilov. Before the assault began, all members of the expedition read the books they took with them. After this, books were exchanged, some books changed hands. The expedition members eagerly read and looked through the magazines “Ogonyok” and “Crocodile”. Individual facts of indiscipline were considered by the head of the expedition, where the deputy was required to be present. politician, party organizer, and sometimes Komsomol organizer. For example, on July 31, in the “Green” camp, they had an argument and almost fought. Suslov and Ryspaev. This case was examined by us in their presence. On the eve of departure from the mountains. Alma-Ata had a bad attitude towards his wife on the part of Sigitov. Having learned this, on June 30 we had a serious conversation with Comrade Sigitov and he promised that after his arrival from the expedition he would resolve this issue, and issue a policy in her name, and she would receive his salary. We have repeatedly talked with Comrade Solodovnikov about the fact that he often uses foul language. We made comments immediately regarding individual cases of indiscipline. Before any group left somewhere, we talked with the leader and the whole group. After returning, they analyzed how they completed the task. We prompted some comrades to send radiograms home. Such radiograms were given by t.t. Semchenko, Sigitov, Zabozlaev. Before the assault, we collected the text of radiograms from everyone that they would like to transmit and transmitted the radiograms to Alma-Ata. Before the assault, the moral and political state of the assault group was excellent. All participants had a great desire to storm and climb Pobeda Peak. Relations between the participants were good. The discipline was positive, all tasks and assignments were carried out well and willingly. In general, the group was mentally prepared for the assault. The group is disciplined, efficient, ideologically consistent. There were no disagreements between the participants, except for the climbing tactics. On this issue, all participants, except Comrade Grudzinsky and Suslov, supported the opinion of Comrade T. Kolokolnikov and Shipilov. All participants were against unification with the expedition of the Turk.VO and the Uzbek Committee. They believed and were confident that it would be better and safer for the group to make the ascent with their own members. Based on the observations I made before the start of the assault, I can characterize individual members of the assault group as follows: 1. Shipilov V.I. - a good climber, persistent, organizer, and enjoyed authority as the leader of the assault. His shortcomings were: he had elements of careerism and arrogance. Sometimes he commanded when he needed to convince. Comrade Suslov did not like him personally. 2. Alexandrov K.Ya. - hardworking, resilient, incorruptible, modest and careful in making decisions. 3. Cherepanov P.F. - a disciplined, sensible person, but among his comrades he was reserved. 4. Solodovnikov I.G. - physically strong, resilient, cheerful, sociable person, he expressed his opinions directly and immediately. He loved to use foul language. 5. Sigitov B.N. - hardy, disciplined, had organizational skills. In dealing with people he is harsh and quick-tempered. He had elements of alarmism and sometimes exaggerated difficulties. 6. Goncharuk A.F. - a modest, honest, very conscientious comrade. He was a great optimist at work. 7. Ankudimov V.G. is a modest, sympathetic and dutiful comrade. 8. Akishev H.A. - a disciplined, responsive comrade. He loved public works and performed them with great willingness. He was modest, considered himself the most inexperienced and physically weak of all the participants. He was physically really weak. 9. Suslov A.D. - politically literate, well acquainted with the history of many ascents. He allowed elements of arrogance, treated his comrades with disdain, and believed that he himself knew better than anyone. In disputes, on almost all issues, he believed that his own opinions were the only correct ones. 10. Selidzhanov R.M. is a modest, very cultured comrade. Was closed. He did not express an opinion on the work of the expedition. 11. Ryspaev E.M. - a very cheerful friend. He joked a lot. He loved to tease someone, pick them up. Sometimes I was lazy. 12. Menyailov N.P. - a modest, very efficient, hardworking comrade. 13. Semchenko A.A. - a hardy, careful comrade. Likes to command, and is rude when dealing with people as a senior. 14. Torodin R.M. - physically strong, sociable friend, but sometimes cowardly, lazy, where possible he “sucks”. 15. Shevchenko N.G. - physically weak, hardworking, disciplined, but cowardly comrade. 16. Usenov U. is a hardy, physically strong, sympathetic comrade. He’s very hot-tempered and doesn’t understand a friendly joke. Deputy Chief
expeditions on the political side: /signature/ /O. Batyrbekov/ 1956.

on medical support for the high-altitude expedition of the club of climbers and tourists of the Kazakh SSR to climb Pobeda Peak in 1955.

Monitoring the condition of the majority of the expedition members began during the autumn-winter training period of 1954-1955. This observation was carried out by the medical and physical education center and by me personally, as the expedition doctor. I have been familiar with the physical condition and health of many of the expedition participants for a number of years. During the period of final formation of the assault group and final training, I, fulfilling the assignment of the Ministry of Health of the Kazakh SSR, was on a business trip, from which I returned on July 13, 1955, i.e. the day before the third echelon of the expedition left Almaty. Insufficient attention to the formation and preparation of the expedition on the part of the leading organizations also affected this front. I, as an expedition doctor, could not take part in a detailed study of the health status of each member of the expedition and participate in the selection of members of the assault group, which was necessary, because It was me who ultimately decided on the issue of allowing each member of the assault group to climb Pobeda Peak. Each high-altitude expedition must be accompanied by extensive research work. The issues of human acclimatization in high altitude conditions have not yet found their final solution. In view of this, the initial plan provided for the inclusion of a group of medical researchers in the expedition to conduct a series of physiological studies and observations of the state of the human body in high altitude conditions. Changes in the estimate deprived us of the opportunity to conduct full-fledged scientific research work also because the expedition was not equipped with the minimum equipment for scientific work. This, in our opinion, is also a consequence of the general attitude of the governing organizations of the republic towards the expedition. Both of these shortcomings significantly worsened the conditions for medical monitoring of health, fitness, etc. and reduced medical control to elementary and standard rules and techniques. Medical monitoring of the health and fitness of members of the assault group. For the first time, we were able to get acquainted with the medical indicators of the health status and fitness of all members of the expedition after the entire expedition concentrated in the Green Glade camp. This initial medical examination of all members of the assault group took 2 days: July 30 and 31. During this medical examination, no pathological abnormalities in the body were identified among the members of the assault group. Blood pressure before exercise and in the dynamics of functional tests, Kotov-Demina test, Clicquot and Orthostatic tests, remained within normal limits in all subjects. The performance of all members of the assault group was good. The speed of blood flow fluctuated among the subjects within the limits of average, normal figures. The second medical examination was carried out on August 13 before the group left for the assault. In the interval between the first and second medical examinations, the members of the expedition performed certain work at various altitudes from 3500 m to 5000 m above sea level and already had sufficient so-called. active acclimatization. This repeated medical examination revealed the following: all members of the assault group, with the exception of Semchenko, Shevchenko, Torodin and Menyailov, had good indicators of functional tests, blood pressure, blood pressure dynamics during the period of exercise, etc. Blood pressure in M.S. Semchenko was in the range of 150-170 mm Hg - correspondence before and after the load. Insufficiently good performance of functional tests and a state of dynamic changes in blood pressure were noted in Torodin, Shevchenko, and Menyailov. The second group of subjects was divided into individuals who had relatively good and excellent performance in all studies. The latter was obtained from the following climbers: Shipilov, Alexandrov, Cherepanov, Sigitov, Ryspaev, Usenov, Selidzhanov, Goncharuk, Suslov. In connection with the change in assault tactics and the division of the group into auxiliary and assault, the opportunity emerged to use the entire group of climbers in preparation for the ascent. To the head of the expedition, z.m.s. Kolokolnikov and the head of the assault group, M.S. Shipilov was informed of the results of the medical examination, indicating that the first group - Semchenko, Menyailov, Torodin, Shevchenko - should be used only up to a height of 6500-6600 m, and in the formation of the assault group, be guided by the results of the medical examination and personal observation of the behavior of individual climbers. Shipilov's first order was carried out, Semchenko and others returned from an altitude of 6500 m. Medical and preventive work. The expedition was well provided with medicines and trauma equipment. Almost any disease, including massive traumatic injuries, could be successfully treated before hospitalization. During the period of the expedition before the assault, its members did not have any serious illnesses. Minor injuries did not require hospitalization or long-term treatment. The head of the expedition, Z.M.S. Kolokolnikov, during the period of reconnaissance work, a mildly expressed cardiovascular insufficiency was revealed, although it was easily resolved under the influence of ordinary treatment measures. After the disaster with the assault group, Usenov, who had frostbite of the feet and hands of the second degree and general chills, needed persistent treatment. A quick evacuation down to the local hospital, and then to the city, with continuous and persistent treatment during the evacuation period, made it possible to preserve his health and limit the levels of amputation that later required to the phalanges of his right hand. Under the influence of mental trauma, the condition of the cardiovascular system of z.m.s. sharply deteriorated. Kolokolnikova. This required his immediate evacuation down to the local hospital in the village of Moydaadyr, and then to the city of Przhevalsk. Before leaving for the assault, the group received the necessary medications and instructions for their use. Medicines were given to the commander of the assault, the commanders of the tents and individually to each climber. Everyone was advised on the rules of behavior in case of possible illnesses. Expedition doctor
Candidate of Medical Sciences: /signature/ / S. Zabozlaev /
1956 Copy.
Kazakh SSR Club of climbers and tourists.
Comrade Tufan A.F.
Committee on Physical Culture and Sports
under the Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR.
Chairmen

EXPRESSION from the order of the Committee on Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR.
№ 480.
dated July 6, 1955
about conducting an expedition to Pobeda Peak

In accordance with the Resolution of the Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR No. 103 dated February 18 of this year, the Republican calendar plan of sports events for 1955, the decision of the All-Union Mountaineering Section and the Committee on Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the USSR and the act of checking the readiness of the expedition ,
ORDERS: Paragraph I In the period from July 5 to September 25, 1955, conduct a high-altitude sports and research expedition to the Central Tien Shan from climbing Pobeda Peak - 7439 m. Paragraph 2 The composition of the expedition to Pobeda Peak should be approved as follows: 1 . Kolokolnikov Evgeniy Mikhailovich - head of the expedition /ZMS/ 2 . Batyrbekov Orazai Batyrbekovich - deputy. beginning exp. p/hour./II category/ 3 . Shipilov Vladimir Petrovich - assault commander. group ./M.S./ 4 . Alexandrov Kuzma Yakovlevich - deputy. beginning storm. group /M.S./ 5 . Cherepanov Pavel Filippovich - participant /M.S./ 6 . Semchenko Alexander Arkhipovich -“- -“- 7 . Solodovnikov Ivan Gerasimovich - participant /I category/ 8 . Sigitov Boris Ivanovich -“- -“- 9 . Torodin Rassvet Mikhailovich -“- -“- 10 .Usenov Uralkhan -“- -“- 11 . Ankudimov Vitaly Georgievich -“- -“- 12 . Goncharuk Andrey Fedorovich -“- -“- 13 . Akishev Khusain Akishevich -“- -“- 14 . Shevchenko Nikolay Grigorievich -“- -“- 15 . Suslov Alexey Dmitrievich -“- -“- 16 . Ryspaev Ergaly Mustafanovich -“- -“- 17 . Selidzhanov Rostislav Mambetovich -“- -“- 18 . Menyailov Pavel Panteleevich -“- -“- 19 . Zabozlaev Sergey Sergeevich expedition doctor, Ph.D. sciences 20 .Grudzinsky Mikhail Eduardovich research worker. parts 21 . Opilko Grigory Fedorovich Head. housekeeper expeditions 22 . Tkachev Ivan Fedorovich senior groom 23 . Gorokhov Gennady Mikhailovich groom 24 . Oblov Alexey Stepanovich cook 25 . Mulendson Rudolf Markovich Sr. cameraman 26 . Goncharenko Gennady Vasilievich cameraman 27 . Elagin Alexey Alexandrovich senior radio operator 28 . Sobolev Fedor Alekseevich radio operator Paragraph 3 To the head of the ZMS expedition, Comrade E.M. Kolokolnikov. When conducting an expedition, strictly follow the guidelines on mountaineering of the All-Union Committee on Physical Culture and Sports and the instructions of the Authorized Person of the All-Communist Physical Culture Committee for the Kazakh high-mountainous region. In connection with the holding of 2 parallel expeditions to Pobeda Peak, the order of ascent should be established in accordance with the telegraphic instructions of the All-Union Committee. Paragraph 4 To the head of the Republican Club of Mountaineers and Tourists, Comrade A.F. Tufan. A/ provide the expedition with everything necessary for its successful work in the mountains. b/ maintain regular radio communications during the expedition. Paragraph 5 In order to ensure additional safety measures, when conducting an expedition to Pobeda Peak, ask the Authorized Person of the All-Union Committee for Physical Culture and Sports, Comrade A. Gvalia, to create a joint rescue group from climbers from camps located in the Trans-Ili Ala-Tau for the period of the expedition. Paragraph 6 To review the materials of sports groups climbing in the area of ​​the expedition during the preparatory period, approve a route commission consisting of: 1. Kolokolnikov E.M. - prev. commissions /w.m.s./ 2. Grudzinsky M.E. - deputy prev /I category/ 3. Shipilov V.P - member of the commission /m.s./ 4. Alexandrov K.Ya. - -“- /m.s./ 5. Cherepanov P.F. - -“- /m.s./ 6. Semchenko A.A. - -“- /m.s./ 7. Batyrbekov O.B. - -“- /II category/ Grant the said commission the right to consider materials in the 5”B” category of difficulty. Paragraph 7 I remind the leadership of the expedition to Pobeda Peak and all participants of their great responsibility for conducting the expedition at a high sports and technical level and unconditionally fulfilling the tasks assigned to the expedition. Paragraph 8 This order must be announced to all expedition personnel.
Chairman of the Committee
in physical education and sports
under the Council of Ministers of Kazakh. SSR: /signature/ /A. Artykov/
M.P. participants of a high-altitude sports and research expedition to Pobeda Peak. No. Last name, first name Year of birth. Home address Place of work and position National Par-tiin. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 1 . Shipilov Vladimir Petrovich 1929 Alma-Ata, 5th line No. 72. Republic Alpine Club Assault Commander Russian. Komsomol 2 . Alexandrov Kuzma Yakovlevich 1925 Alma-Ata-1, Papanin St. No. 179 Republican. clubalpin. Chuvash Komsomol instructor 3 . Ankudimov Vitaly Georgievich 1929 Alma-Ata-1, st. Gabdullina No. 84 VKM turner Russian. Komsomol 4 . Goncharuk Andrey Fedorovich 1928 Alma-Ata-1, Suvorov street No. 76 VCh-4 boilermaker Russian. Member of the CPSU 5 . Akishev Khusain Akishevich 1933 Alma-Ata-2, st. Vinogradova No. 80 student of Kazakh State University Kazakh Komsomol 6 . Semchenko Alexander Arkhipovich 1922 Alma-Ata, st. Ilyich No. 49 teacher of the department of physical education. KazMI rus. b/p 7 . Solodovnikov Ivan Gerasimovich 1921 Alma-Ata Republican Alpine Club. Russian instructor b/p 8 . Sigitov Boris Ivanovich 1927 Alma-Ata st. Pushkin No. 7 Rep. club of the Alps. Russian instructor b/p 9 . Torodin Rassvet Mikhailovich 1925 Alma-Ata, 9th line No. 12 quarter 8 Z-d Kirov, workshop No. 5, Russian turner. b/p 10 . Usenov Ural 1929 Alma-Ata, st. Krasina No. 57 Republic. Alpine Club Kazakh b/p 11 . Cherepanov Pavel Filippovich 1917 Alma-Ata, Mechnikov street No. 120, apt. 14 Committee FC and joint venture under the Council of Min. KazSSR, state trainer Russian. b/p 12 . Shevchenko Nikolay Grigorievich 1926 Alma-Ata, Chekhov str. No. 7, apt. 3 Alma-Ata-1, VCh-4, Russian electric welder. b/p 13 . Suslov Alexey Dmitrievich 1923 VOKS, factory con. insp.gr. rus. Cand. CPSU 14 . Ryspaev Ergaly Mustafanovich 1931 Moscow, Lefortovo Val, No. 7-a, building 8 Student MEPhI Kazakh Komsomol 15 . Selidzhanov Rostislav Mambetovich 1930 Moscow, Lefotovo shaft No. 7, building 1-133 Moscow, MTZ engineer Russian. Komsomol 16 . Menyailov Pavel Panteleevich 1927 Stalinsk, Kemerovo region. Ovrazhnaya 26 Instructor of the “Metallurg” mountain camp in Talgar. rus. b/p Note:****VKM - Railway car-wheel workshops Alma-Ata-1 station
****VCh-4 – apparently a military unit
****VOX - (possibly) All-Union Society for Cultural Relations with Foreign Countries (why z-d?).

ORDER
CHAIRMAN OF THE COMMITTEE ON PHYSICAL EDUCATION AND SPORTS
AT THE COUNCIL OF MINISTERS OF THE USSR.
December 14, 1955. No. 459.
ABOUT THE EXPEDITION OF CLIMBERS TO POBEDA PEAK

In August 1955, while climbing Pobeda Peak, an accident occurred with a group of mountaineering expedition organized by the Committee on Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR. As a result of organized search and rescue operations and an inspection by a special commission appointed by the Committee on Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the USSR. The chairman of the commission is Honored Master of Sports Comrade E.A. Beletsky. The death of 11 climbers - members of the expedition's assault group - was established. Shipilov V.P., Ankudimov V.G., Akishev Kh.A., Sigitov B.I., Cherepanov P.F., Suslov A.D., Ryspaev E.M. and Selidzhanov R.M. One of the main reasons for the death of the assault group is the fact that, having encountered difficult conditions, worsening weather, blizzards and heavy snowfall, the members of the assault group became confused, acted disunitedly, and did not show themselves as a single, cohesive team. The attempted descent was unorganized. Head of the assault Comrade V.P. Shipilov failed to organize a group to fight the elements. A gross mistake by the head of the group, Comrade V.P. Shipilov. was that, having lost contact with base camp, he continued to move upward. With the correct actions of the group and its leader, when the weather worsened, it was possible to prevent a disaster by sheltering from the weather in tents or snow caves. The approved tactical plan for climbing Pobeda Peak by the leadership of the expedition, the head of the expedition, Honored Master of Sports, Comrade E.M. Kolokolnikov, was rejected and replaced by the tactics of storming the peak of the “descent”, which, as an analysis of the ascent shows, led to premature fatigue of the climbers and had a negative impact on their the ability to withstand bad weather and the ability to withstand difficult climbing conditions. Due to the presence of two expeditions, the Kazakh Committee and the Uzbek Committee and the Turkestan Military District, the Committee on Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the USSR established the priority of storming the summit by the Kazakh expedition. However, the expedition of the Uzbek Republican Committee and the Turkestan Military District grossly violated this instruction by launching an assault on Pobeda Peak the day after the Kazakh expedition left, which created an environment of unhealthy sports competition. Presidium of the All-Union Section, Chairman Honored Master of Sports Comrade K.K. Kuzmin, Mountaineering Department of the Committee Comrade R.G. Shafeev did not take a firm position on the issue of uniting the forces of various expeditions to Pobeda Peak and did not check their decision to strengthen the expedition with experienced high-altitude climbers. Inclusion in the expedition etc. Suslova A.D., Ryspaeva E.M. and Selidzhanova R.M. did not strengthen the composition of the expedition to the extent required. The Kazakh Republican Committee for Physical Culture and Sports, the Organizing Committee of the expedition and the Republican Mountaineering Section took the wrong position, rejecting proposals to unite the forces of several organizations for a joint assault on Pobeda Peak. As a result, the expedition's climbing team was not strong enough to complete the task of climbing this peak. The leader of the auxiliary group is master of sports comrade. Semchenko A.A., having received the task of lowering the slightly ill Menyailov P.P. from the ridge, had to remain under the Chon-Toren pass to organize an observation and communication point. Instead, he voluntarily went to base camp with the entire group. Head of rescue and search operations, Honored Master of Sports Comrade V.I. Ratsek, heads of rescue teams and groups, etc. Semchenko A.A. and Nagel E.I. from the moment they received information about the emergency situation, V.P. Shipilov’s group carried out work at a slow pace. The danger of avalanches from the slopes of the Ak-Tau peak and the Chon-Toren pass, which supposedly excluded the possibility of movement of rescue teams, was overestimated by them. A member of the Presidium of the All-Union Section and a participant in the expedition of the Uzbek Committee and the Turkestan Military District, Comrade L.V. Yurasov, knowing about the resolution of the Presidium and the instructions of the Committee on the sequence of ascents to Pobeda Peak, did not take measures to prevent the climbers of Uzbekistan from launching an assault prematurely. ORDERS: 1 . The conclusions of the commission of the Committee on Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the USSR, which conducted an investigation into the causes and circumstances of the accident with the expedition group of the Kazakh Republican Committee on Physical Culture and Sports, should be approved /Appendix No. 1/. 2 . To severely reprimand the Chairman of the Committee on Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR, Comrade. Artykov A.E., Chairman of the Expedition Organizing Committee, Deputy. Chairman of the same Committee, Comrade S.S. Gerzhon for failure to provide leadership and lack of control over the actions of the expedition. 3 . Announce a severe reprimand to the head of the expedition, Honored Master of Sports, Comrade Kolokolnikov E.M. and prohibit him from further leading mountaineering expeditions for unsatisfactory leadership of the expedition and unauthorized changes in the tactical plan for climbing Pobeda Peak. 4 . To issue a severe reprimand and remove Honored Master of Sports V.I. Ratsek from the Presidium of the All-Union Mountaineering Section. - head of the expedition of the Committee on Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Uzbek SSR and the Turkestan Military District. By banning him from leading mountaineering expeditions for 3 years for violating the instructions of the Committee on Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the USSR and the Presidium of the All-Union Mountaineering Section on the order of priority for climbing Pobeda Peak. 5 . Remove Honored Master of Sports Comrade L.V. Yurasov from the Presidium of the All-Union Mountaineering Section. for failure to take proper measures to prevent violation of the climbing order of the expedition of Uzbek climbers and the Turkestan Military District. 6 . To deprive Comrade A.A. Semchenko of the title of master of sports and instructor qualifications. for violation of the order of the head of the expedition, which resulted in an unauthorized descent to the lower camp, which led to the absence of an auxiliary detachment in the camp closest to the assault group. 7 . Oblige the Department of Mass Sports and the Presidium of the All-Union Mountaineering Section to hold a scientific and methodological conference on high-altitude ascents in January 1956, at which to determine the main provisions of the organization and tactics of high-altitude ascents of Soviet climbers. To attract organizations and individuals interested in the development of high-altitude mountaineering to participate in the conference. The conference program should be approved /Appendix No. 2/. The conference materials and proposals should be submitted for consideration and approval by the Committee by February 1, 1956. 8 . To oblige the management of Fizkultpromsnab, Comrade K.I. Mass, to develop new models of mountaineering equipment for high-altitude ascents, taking into account foreign experience, during the first quarter of 1956 by the efforts of the Central Laboratory of Scientific Research. 9 . Oblige the Management of educational institutions and the scientific and methodological council of the Committee to include the following topics in the research plan: A/ “Medical indications and contraindications for mountaineering” b/ “The influence of high-mountain conditions, above 6400 m, on the human body, water-salt regime, diet and oxygen use.” 10 . To allow the Committee on Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Kazakh SSR in 1956 to conduct a 60-day training camp on the basis of the ski station for the preparation of junior mountaineering instructors with a contingent of 30 people. 11 . As an exception, allow the Taldy-Kurgan, East Kazakhstan, South Kazakhstan, Dzhambul and Karaganda regional committees to include climbing equipment in the list of personnel property, in accordance with Appendix No. 3. 12 . Oblige the Kazakh, Uzbek, Kyrgyz, Georgian republican committees for physical culture and sports and the Central Committee of the DSO to discuss this order together with the mountaineering activists and develop measures to strengthen educational work among climbers, improve preparatory work for ascents and increase demands on climbing groups. Note: ****CLSI - Central Laboratory of Sports Equipment N. Romanov.
Application number 1.
By order of the Chairman of the Committee on Physical
Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the USSR
dated December 14, 1955 No. 459.

CONCLUSION ON THE CIRCUMSTANCES OF THE DEATH OF A GROUP OF EXPEDITION PARTICIPANTS OF THE COMMITTEE ON PHYSICAL EDUCATION AND SPORTS UNDER THE COUNCIL OF MINISTERS OF THE KAZAKH SSR AT POBEDA PEAK

Commission consisting of: Honored Master of Sports E.A. BELETSKY, Chairman, Honored. masters of sports ABALAKOVA V.M., NESTEROVA V.F., MALEINOVA A.A., masters of sports TIKHONRAVOVA V.A., t. DADIOMOVA M.Ya., Kazakhstan, Republican Committee on Physical Culture and Sports, appointed by order of the committee on Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the USSR dated September 26, 1955 No. 605, having familiarized himself with the documentation on the progress of preparation and conduct of the mountaineering expedition, the explanations of the head of the expedition, Comrade. KOLOKOLNIKOVA E.M., participants: T.T. USENOVA U., TORODIN R.M., SHEVCHENKO N.G., SEMCHENKO A.A., MENYAYLOVA P.M., GRUDZINSKY M.E., ZABOZLAEVA S.S. ., BATYRBEKOVA O.B., Head of the joint expedition of the Uzbek Republican Committee for Physical Culture and Sports and the Turkestan Military District comrade RACEK V.I. and the head of the rescue team of this expedition, Comrade L.V. YURASOVA, as well as the explanations of the participants of the rescue and search groups and with the photographs and film documents at the disposal of the commission, established: Organization of the expedition The decision to organize an expedition to Pobeda Peak, height 7439 m, was made by the Kazakh Republican Committee for Physical Culture and Sports in the fall of 1954. In February 1955, materials on the expedition were received by the Committee on Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the USSR and considered by the high-altitude commission of the All-Union Mountaineering Section and the presidium of the section. Who proposed to combine the expedition of the Kazakh Republican Committee on Physical Culture and Sports at the beginning with the expedition organized by the Central Sports Society “Spartak”, and then with the expedition organized by the Uzbek Republican Committee together with Turk.VO, this was categorically refused from the Kazakh Republican Committee. On March 15, 1955, the expedition to Pobeda Peak was authorized by the Presidium of the All-Union Section, subject to the condition of strengthening it with 4-6 experienced high-altitude climbers. On June 24, 1955, the Presidium of the All-Union Section included the ascent of Pobeda Peak into the All-Union mountaineering competitions. In case of refusal to unite the expeditions of the Kazakh and Uzbek Republican Committees, the right of the first stage of ascent was given to the Kazakh climbers. Uzbek climbers were allowed to climb only after the Kazakh climbers completed the climb. This decision, by order of the Committee, was brought to the attention of both expeditions in order to avoid unnecessary and harmful excitement. By agreement of the head of the expedition, Comrade E.M. KOLOKOLNIKOV. with the Chairman of the All-Union Mountaineering Section, Comrade K.K. KUZMIN. Three high-altitude climbers from Moscow were included in the expedition: t.t. Suslov A.D., Selidzhanov R.M. and RYSPAYEV E.M. In the period from July 4-15, the expedition left Alma-Ata in three echelons. On July 29, the entire composition of the Kazakh expedition gathered in a camp at the tongue of the Inylchek glacier, where the final decision was made to climb separately from the expedition of the Uzbek Republican Committee. On August 12, the last group of expedition climbers arrived at the base camp on the Zvezdochka glacier, altitude 4200 m. By this time, through the efforts of some of the expedition climbers, an intermediate observation point was set up at an altitude of 4700 m and a camp was organized at an altitude of 5100 m, a tent with fuel and food. From where 5 participants went out to the slopes of the Chon-Toren pass, altitude 5500 m, and viewed the eastern ridge. On these same days, the entire expedition of the Uzbek Republican Committee gathered on the Zvezdochka glacier under the leadership of the Honored Master of Sports Comrade. RATSEK V.I., who set up camp on the other side of the glacier. On August 13, first at the party group, and then at the general meeting of the expedition participants, in a change to the initial approved plan for the ascent, it was decided that the preparation for the ascent was considered completed and that they would go on to storm the summit. This decision to force the ascent was opposed by a member of the Presidium of the All-Union Section, a member of the expedition, Comrade SUSLOV, and a member of the organizing committee of the expedition, Comrade M.E. Grudzinsky. Circumstances of the ascent and accident On August 14, a group of 16 people under the leadership of the head of the assault, master of sports V.P. SHIPILOV, in accordance with the order of the head of the expedition E.M. KOLOKOLNIKOV, set out to assault Pobeda Peak and on the same day reached an intermediate camp 4700 m on the glacier. The next day, the group came to a camp in the upper reaches of the Zvezdochka glacier located under the Chon-Toren pass, at an altitude of 5100 m. On the same day, August 15, violating the direct instructions of the All-Union Committee on the order of the assault on Pobeda Peak, they set off along its Northern ridge to the ascent of a group of climbers from the expedition of the Uzbek Republican Committee, their progress along the path to the summit and the light signals were noticed by the members of the assault group of V.P. SHIPILOV. On August 16, the assault group of the Kazakh expedition reached the Chon-Toren pass, 5500 m, and began climbing towards Pobeda Peak along its eastern ridge. By the end of the day, the climbers reached a height of 5800 m, where the first camp of the expedition was organized on the ridge. In the evening, the last radio communication of the assault group of V.P. SHIPILOV took place. with base camp, 4200m. Subsequently, radio communication could not be established. Despite this circumstance and the significant delay from the previously planned ascent schedule, the group decided to continue the assault. According to the testimony of the surviving member of the assault group U. USENOV, this was done out of fear of losing the championship to the Uzbek climbers. On August 17, the group reached an altitude of 6180 m. After spending the night at this point, the assault leader V.P. SHIPILOV decided to send down, under the leadership of the assault participant, Comrade A.A. SEMCHENKO, the climber P.M. MENYAILOV, who suffered from severe headaches, as well as the least strong participants - climbers N.G. SHEVCHENKO. and TORODIN R.M.. By order of the head of the expedition, the returning group, having reached 5100 m on the descent under the Chon-Toren pass, was supposed to remain there and serve as an auxiliary detachment monitoring the progress of the assault. However, the group of Comrade SEMCHENKO A.A., without staying in the camp 5100 m, arrived at the base camp of the expedition at an altitude of 4200 m on August 19. The assault group consisting of 12 climbers, leaving in the camp 6180 m. brought by the group SEMCHENKO A.A. . tent, some food and fuel, continued to climb the eastern ridge of Pobeda Peak. On August 18, an altitude of 6600 m was reached, and on August 19, by the end of the day, at an altitude of 6700 m, the last, fourth camp of the expedition was organized on the ridge. Late in the evening, around 23-00 hours, the weather, which had previously been favorable for the ascent, deteriorated. Heavy snowfall began, accompanied by strong winds. As evidenced by U. USENOV, a participant in the assault who was in the camp at 6700 m, only part of the expedition’s climbers undertook an active fight against the snow that covered the tents; periodically, during the night from August 19 to 20, they shoveled the snow and set up a camp around one of the 3 tents barrier made of snow bricks. Most of the participants in the ascent, including the head of the assault group, V.P. SHIPILOV. were indifferent to what was happening. When in the middle of the night it became impossible to stay in tents half-covered with snow, the climbers began to disorganized, one by one, move from tent to tent. Some of them left some of their warm clothes in their tents under the snow, including high-altitude shoes, Shipilov, Solodovnikov, mittens, some down suits, food, and the climber Aleksandrov lost his sleeping bag, blown away by a gust of wind. When climbers tried to improve ventilation inside the tents, and later to find things buried in snow, two tents were cut and torn and turned out to be unsuitable for further use. In this condition, with some food and belongings, two tents were discovered on September 8 by the search group of Comrade KUZMINA K.K. By the morning of August 20, on the instructions of V.P. SHIPILOV, a snow cave was opened in the slope of the ridge, in which all the participants in the assault were accommodated. By this time, some of the climbers had suffered frostbite on their hands or feet, and the morale of many was depressed. When moving into the snow cave, the leader of the assault was SHIPILOV V.P. suggested to USENOV U. and SIGITOV B.I. to go down for help, and after that he said that anyone who was able to do so could go down. TO USENOV U. and SIGITOV B.I. Suslov A.D. joined Climbers RYSPAYEV E.I., SELIDZHANOV R.M., ANKUDIMOV V.G. also decided to go down. and GONCHARUK A.F. However, after a short descent, about 100 m, hampered by a strong storm and lack of visibility, the last four decided to return back to the cave and parted with the group of USENOVA U., SIGITOVA B.I. and SUSLOVA A.D., who continued the descent. Having descended in the evening to an altitude of about 6100 m and not finding a reserve camp in bad weather, Usenov U., Sigitov B.I. and Suslov A.D. settled down for the night. Due to the lack of a tent, they spent the night in a snow hole, having only one sleeping bag for the whole group. On the morning of August 21, the descent along the ridge continued, but the climbers, moving in bad weather, lost their orientation, deviated to the right, towards the headwaters of the Chon-Toren glacier, after 2 hours they came to impassable faults and were forced to start climbing back to the eastern ridge of the peak Victory. Before reaching the ridge A.D. SUSLOV felt unwell and died. Head of the group B.I. SIGITOV ordered U. USENOV to stay with A.D. SUSLOV, and he himself went downstairs for help. In the afternoon, August 22, for fear of freezing, U. USENOV decided to begin the descent. Moving along the eastern ridge of Pobeda Peak, at an altitude of about 6000 m, I discovered that the traces of B.I. SIGITOV. go to the right and end with traces of a breakdown towards the headwaters of the Chon-Toren glacier, this circumstance was subsequently confirmed by the search group of Comrade KUZMINA K.K. USENOV U. during the day, the next night and the morning of August 23 of this year. continued his non-stop movement, descended from the Chon-Toren pass and, without noticing the tent of the camp at 5100 m, proceeded down towards the upper reaches of the icefall of the Zvezdochka glacier. At 10:00 a.m. on August 23, he fell into a crack and was removed from there 26 hours later, on August 24, by members of the Kazakh expedition rescue team. Rescue work
The traces of Usenov U. at 19-00 on August 23 were noticed by members of the expedition of the Uzbek Republican Committee, Comrade NARYSHKIN. What they were informed about was the group of SEMCHENKO A.A., which arrived at the camp 4700 m. on the orders of the head of the Kazakh expedition, Comrade E.M. KOLOKOLNIKOV. with the task of going up to establish contact with V.P. SHIPILOV’s group. Climbers N.G. SHEVCHENKO, who set off on skis on the morning of August 24 and MENYAILOV P.M. extracted USENOV U. from the crack, who reported the above events with the assault group of Comrade V.P. SHIPILOV. Further rescue and search operations were carried out by the combined forces of two expeditions until August 28 under the joint leadership of the heads of the two expeditions, and in the future, due to the illness of T. Kolokolnikova E.M., under the leadership of the Honored Master of Sports Comrade V.I. Racek, appointed head of rescue operations by order of the head of the mountaineering and tourism department of the Committee Comrade Upenek B.A. On August 25, after transporting Comrade USENOV, in satisfactory weather, A.A. Semchenko’s group, reinforced by members of the Uzbek expedition, again headed to the upper reaches of the Zvezdochka glacier. On August 26, in the morning, climber P.M. Menyailov, advancing on skis, discovered a footprint in the area of ​​the upper icefall of the Zvezdochka glacier, and soon the corpse of a member of the assault group of the Kazakh expedition, Comrade A.F. GONCHARUK, who died, as was later established by a medical examination, from exhaustion and hypothermia. Leaving a corpse on the glacier, on August 26, Semchenko’s group Note:****CS VSS – Central Council of the Voluntary Sports Society
Sports societies:
- "Spartak" - scientists and employees,
- “Dynamo” – employees of the Ministry of Internal Affairs (MVD)
- “Burevestnik” – students, teachers
- “Trud”, “Enbek” - workers and employees of industrial enterprises
- “Lokomotiv” – railway employees
- “Harvest” – agricultural workers, etc.

P.S. In memory of the eleven climbers who died in this expedition, the names of the glacier, pass and peak in the Saryjaz ridge, Central Tien Shan were given. Administratively, this part of the Tien Shan belongs to the Kazakh SSR. The names Eleven Peak 5437 m, Eleven Pass 5300 m, Eleven Glacier were given. When creating this album, I used archival materials taken from personal archives:
- Photos from the archives of Ural Usenov, Viktor Zimin, Mikhail Grudzinsky and Valery Khrishchaty.
- Documents from the archive of Alexander Kolokolnikov (son of Evgeniy Kolokolnikov, head of the expedition) and the archive of the Urals Usenov. The album contains two reports, a 1955 report and a 1956 report, more complete with analysis, analysis and solutions. From the “shards” lying and stored in different places, I managed to assemble this “mosaic”. In memory of the participants of this tragic expedition. More than one generation of Soviet climbers was brought up on the analysis and analysis of this tragedy. In 1990, when we passed this place of the tragedy, making a traverse of the Pobeda - Khan Tengri peaks. Valery Khrishchaty told and showed where the tents stood in 1955. The USSR national mountaineering team, making a traverse of the Pobeda - Military Topographers peaks in 1988, cleaned up the site of the tragedy. Valery Khrishchaty himself kept diaries of sporting events in which he personally took part. And he took written documents of this kind very seriously. From the stories of Ural Usenov, he knew that Ergali Ryspaev kept a diary of the expedition. And finding myself at the scene of the tragedy, 33 years later, I wanted to find this diary. He warned all team members of his intentions. And after he found the diary in one of the tents, he gave the go-ahead for cleaning. The USSR national mountaineering team collected all the equipment, clothing, and dishes from the ice at the site of the tragedy and dropped it on the northern wall of the Eastern Pobeda peak, on the territory of the USSR. Work was also done to improve the burials. Burial of Cherepanov P.F. – 6600 m. and Ankudimova V.G. – 6250 m were additionally lined with stones. The body of Suslov A.D. could not be found.

Film about the events:

Kyrgyz, Trans-Ili Alatau, Kungey-Alatau, Terskey-Ala-Too. The Middle Tien Shan includes the Pskem, Chatkal, Kuramin, Fergana, etc. ridges, and the Southern Tien Shan, which is divided by the last ridge into the eastern and western parts: Nuratau, Turkestan, Zeravshan, Gissar, Alai (in the west) and At- Bashi, Kakshaal-Too (in the east). The mountain ranges have an average height of 3000-4000 m and are dissected by valleys through which large rivers flow: Pskem, Chatkal, Syrdarya, Zeravshan, Surkhob, Naryn, Tekes, etc. Numerous glaciers and large centers of glaciation are known - the Khan Tengri mountain junction, Pobeda Peak, Alai Range. There are many large lakes: Issyk-Kul (area 6236 km2, according to other sources - 6330 km2, altitude 1608 m), Song-Kol, Chatyr-Kul, Bagramkul, Turfanskoye, etc. The belt landscape zoning is well expressed. The climate is sharply continental and arid. The amount of precipitation increases with height and in the glacial-nival belt is 1600 mm/year. In the internal (intermountain) depressions, 200-400 mm of precipitation falls per year. Due to the significant dryness of the climate, the snow line in the Tien Shan is located at an altitude of 3600-3800 m, and in the Central Tien Shan even at an altitude of 4200-4500 m.

Geological structure and minerals. The Tien Shan is part of the Ural-Mongolian (Ural-Okhotsk) folded geosynclinal belt. In the north, the folded structures have a northwestern and sublatitudinal strike, and in the south, a sublatitudinal strike. After the Hercynian folding, most of the Tien Shan was peneplainized. Mountain building, which created the modern high-mountain relief, began in the Oligocene and was especially evident in the Pliocene and Anthropocene. Differentiated tectonic movements led to the formation of stepped relief, powerful erosion, the development of deep river valleys, and the emergence of glaciation centers (see map).

According to the characteristics of the geological structure, the Tien Shan is divided into Northern, Middle and Southern. The first is a Caledonian folded structure and is separated by a deep tectonic suture - the suture (the so-called “Nikolaev line”) from the younger systems of the Middle and Southern Tien Shan. The Southern Tien Shan is a Hercynian structure, and the Middle Tien Shan occupies an intermediate position.

The Northern (Caledonian) Tien Shan includes the North Kyrgyz zone, superimposed on the eastern part of the Kokchetav-Muyunkum massif, which was heavily reworked during the Caledonian era. The Early Precambrian foundation of this zone is exposed in the Makbal horst and makes up the buried massifs: Muyunkum and Issyk-Kul, composed of Archean gneiss complexes and linear folded zones of the Early Proterozoic. On this folded foundation in the Middle Riphean, troughs were formed, filled with terrigenous-carbonate strata, unconformably overlain by basic volcanics and siliceous shales of the Upper Riphean (Terskey series). Vendian deposits, represented by terrigenous rocks (), sharply unconformably overlap the Riphean strata. To the south, Vendo-Early Cambrian and Middle Cambrian-Ordovician island-arc volcanics and marginal marine terrigenous strata are common. At the end of the Ordovician and at the end of the Silurian - Early-Middle Devonian, uplifts and deformations began in the north. The introduction of huge granite intrusions, widely developed in the Kyrgyz zone, dates back to this time. During the Hercynian stage, in an environment of blocky differentiated movements, terrestrial volcanics, red rocks and terrigenous-carbonate deposits with a thickness of 2-4 km accumulated in different places.

The middle Tien Shan is limited from the north by the “Nikolaev line”, and from the southwest by the Beltau-Kurama volcanic belt and the eastern continuation of the Syrdarya massif, on which this zone is partially superimposed. To the east of the Thalasso-Fergana fault, the Middle Tien Shan narrows and is cut off by the At-Bashyn fault. The middle Tien Shan is composed of Vendian tillite-like conglomerates, carbonate sediments and siliceous-argillaceous vanadium-bearing shales (up to 3 km), and Ordovician carbonate-terrigenous sediments (up to 2.5 km). The Silurian, represented by continental molasse with volcanics, is developed only in the Chatkal ridge. This Caledonian complex is unconformably overlain by continental variegated clastic strata of the Middle Devonian (1.5 km), marine sandy-conglomerate and carbonate-clayey deposits of the Upper Devonian (3.5 km). In the east of the zone, the carbonate-terrigenous Lower Carboniferous (3 km) and the siliceous-clayey Middle Carboniferous (2 km) are developed. The Beltau-Kurama volcanic belt rests on Riphean metamorphites and carbonate-terrigenous sediments (more than 5 km) at the top with basalts (Lower Carboniferous). Above is a thick (up to 6 km) continental sequence of basalts, andesites, dacites and comagmatic granitoids belonging to the Middle-Upper Carboniferous. The Permian consists of coarse continental molasse and rhyolite ignimbrites, tuffs and lavas. The deposits of the Hercynian complex are less dislocated than the Caledonian complex. East of the Thalasso-Fergana fault, the Middle Tien Shan includes the Dzhetymtau, Moldo-Too and Naryn-Too ridges, in which the Hercynian complex forms synclinoriums, and the Caledonian complex appears in the uplifts.

The Southern Tien Shan extends in the latitudinal direction, tapering in the east, and is divided into three parts: western (Kyzylkum), central (Gissar-Alai) and eastern (At-Bashy-Kakshaal). From the south, the folded systems of the Southern Tien Shan are limited by the Afghan-Tajik and Tarim Precambrian massifs. In the central part, which has a width of up to 200 km, a number of zones with different types of sections are distinguished from the north and south: Northern, Kapa-Chatyr, South Fergana, and to the south - Turkestan-Alai and Zeravshan-Gissar zones. From the south, the last zone is limited by the South Gissar volcanic belt. To the south, Precambrian rocks of the Afghan-Tajik massif are exposed. The structure of the Southern Tien Shan is characterized by the widespread development of Hercynian thrusts and southern vergence nappes. The formation of the system due to the destruction of the Precambrian continental crust dates back to the beginning of the Paleozoic, as evidenced by the presence of ophiolites of this age. In the Silurian - the first half of the Carboniferous, limestones accumulated on massifs with continental crust, and clays and flysch accumulated on oceanic crust. The thickness of the deposits reached 8 km. The beginning of deformations dates back to the middle of the Middle Carboniferous, as evidenced by powerful olistostromes and gravitational covers. Uplifts intensified at the end of the Carboniferous and Permian. All deposits are intruded by granites. To the east, all zones narrow, and in the south they border on the Tarim massif.

In the Mesozoic and Cenozoic, the Northern and Middle Tien Shan developed somewhat differently from the Southern Tien Shan. In the Northern Tien Shan in the Triassic-Eocene there was a platform with a thin cover of continental clastic deposits that filled a number of depressions. In the Jurassic there was an intensification of movements, and from the Oligocene the pace of tectonic movements increased sharply and the range of movements was 8-10 km in the Pliocene. Along with powerful mountain ranges, large intermountain depressions with coarse molasse and foothill troughs (Frunzensky, Ilisky, Alakolsky) also developed. The southern Tien Shan at the beginning of the Mesozoic was peneplanated, but in the Late Triassic - Early Jurassic, near-fault basins were formed - East and South Fergana, etc. In the first of them, a three-kilometer thick layer of continental coal-bearing sediments was deposited, which underwent folding in the Late Jurassic. In the Cretaceous and Early Paleogene, marine, continental and lagoonal sediments accumulated (up to 2-3 km), preserved within the Fergana and Tajik depressions. From the late Oligocene, an uplift of the region began, which sharply intensified from the Pliocene and formed the modern high-mountain relief and depressions filled with molasse up to 6 km. In the Pleistocene, new, rather intense fold-thrust deformations appeared, associated with the convergence of the Hindustan and Eurasian lithospheric plates. Thus, a vast mountainous country with high seismicity was formed.

The western (Kyzylkum) part of the Southern Tien Shan is the widest (up to 300-3500 km) and within its boundaries analogues of all zones of the central part of the Southern Tien Shan are developed. In the west, the Hercynides of the Southern Tien Shan are cut off by a meridional fault, along which the end junction of the structures of the Urals and the Southern Tien Shan occurs.

History of mineral resource development. The first evidence of the use of flint for making tools dates back to the Early Paleolithic (700-300 thousand years ago). In the area of ​​sites in Karatau, in the Central Tien Shan (valley of the On-Archa River), on Lake Issyk-Kul (Boz-Barmak), similarities of mine workings for the extraction of flints were discovered. Quarries of the Middle Paleolithic era are known near the sites of Khoja-Gor, Kapchagai, Togor, etc., and of the Late Paleolithic - in Kapchagai. 5-3 thousand years ago, in the late Neolithic era, the development of natural paints began: ocher, manganese peroxide, etc., which were used to make rock paintings in the Teke-Sekirik caves near the city of Naryn and Ak-Chunkur on the Sary-Jaz River. At the same time, clay began to be mined for making dishes.

In the 2nd millennium BC, during the Bronze and Copper Age, the development of ores of copper, lead, tin, zinc, as well as gold and silver began. Stone molds were used to produce metal castings. By this time there are traces of mining in the form of quarries, shallow mines and adits in settlement areas - Boz-Tepe, Chim-bay, Kapa-Kochkor on the Chu, Talas and Naryn rivers. At the beginning of the 1st millennium BC. A reduction in the production of tin and copper began, which is associated with the development of iron smelting, the ore of which was mined in the Talas Range, in the foothills of the Fergana Depression. Slave relations, which developed in Central Asia starting from the middle of the 1st millennium BC, did not slow down the development of mining, but there is very little data about this era. Feudalism, which replaced in the 1st millennium AD. The slave system, in connection with the needs of agriculture, urban crafts and military needs, contributed to an increase in mining. Historical chronicles of that time report iron mining in the Western Tien Shan, where iron ore slag dumps are known at many points in the Chirchik River basin, in the Kurama Mountains (Turganly, At-Kulak, Shah-Adam-Bulak, Kan-Tam, etc.) and the remains of ancient workings, as well as in the area of ​​Lake Issyk-Kul (Koysary), where in the fortification of the 7th-12th centuries. a blacksmith's tool made from local raw materials was found. During the same era, gold was mined (Kumaynak in the valley of the Angren River) and a lot of silver was mined in the western spurs of the Tien Shan (Kukhi-Sim mine). The lead extracted along the way was used to make mineral paints and household products. Copper ores were mined in the valley of the Chu River, in the regions of Aksu and Kucha (eastern Tien Shan), Ak-Tasha (Kyrgyz Range), Almalyk (Kuramin Range), where about 500 ancient workings with a volume of up to 20,000 m 3 are known. Mining developments were in the form of quarries and adits up to 30 m long, with side pockets Mushketov, D.I. Mushketov, N.G. Kassin, as well as V.N. Weber, who in 1913 gave the first information about the patterns of distribution of minerals. After the Great October Revolution, prominent Soviet geologists A.E. Fersman, D.V. Nalivkin, D.I. Shcherbakov led the work on the comprehensive development of the natural resources of the Tien Shan. A great contribution to the study of geology and mineral resources of the Tien Shan was made by V. A. Nikolaev, A. V. Peive, N. M. Sinitsyn, Kh. M. Abdullaev, A. E. Dovzhikov, G. S. Porshnyakov, V. N. Ognev, D. P. Rezvoy, V. G. Korolev, V. S. Burtman and others. For information about the modern mining industry of the Tien Shan, see in Art. about the republics: Kyrgyz CCP, Tajik CCP, Uzbek CCP.

Geographical position. Tien Shan is one of the largest mountain systems in Asia. Translated from Chinese, Tien Shan means “heavenly mountains”. The territory of Kazakhstan includes almost the entire Northern Tien Shan, parts of the Central and Western Tien Shan.
The Central Tien Shan within Kazakhstan begins from the powerful mountain node Khan Tengri (6995 m), at the junction of the borders of China, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. Further it extends to the west along a series of ridges. The largest of them is Tersky Alatau. The border with Kyrgyzstan runs along its eastern branch.
The Northern Tien Shan includes the following ranges: Ketmen, Kungey Alatau, Trans-Ili Alatau, Chu-Ili Mountains and Kyrgyz Alatau.
The Western Tien Shan includes the Talas ridge and the Ugamsky and Korzhintau ridges extending from it in the southeast direction.
Karatau is located entirely within Kazakhstan - the most extreme, heavily destroyed region of the Tien Shan.
Relief, geological structure and minerals. The Tien Shan is located in the ancient synclinal belt. It is composed of metamorphosed shales, sandstones, gneisses, limestones and volcanic rocks of Precambrian and Lower Paleozoic deposits. Later continental and lacustrine deposits are concentrated on the mountain plains. They consist of clayey, sandy and moraine deposits. Main mountain systems:
Trans-Ili Alatau is the northernmost high-mountain ridge of the Tien Shan, has a length of 350 km, a width of 30-40 km, and an average height of 4000 m.
The Trans-Ili Alatau rises towards the Talgar and Chiliko-Kemin mountains (Talgar peak - 4973 m), and in the eastern direction, towards the Dalashyk and Tore tracts, it noticeably decreases (3300-3400 m). The northern slopes of the mountains are especially clearly cut by numerous rivers, which indicates the influence of the Ice Age on them.
The Trans-Ili Alatau is composed of ancient sedimentary and igneous rocks of the Lower Paleozoic - sandstones, porphyries, granites and gneisses. As a result of the formation of the Caledonian and Hercynian folds in the Paleozoic, and then repeated uplift during the Alpine mountain-building process, the mountain structure became block-folded.
An alpine type of relief has developed on the peaks. Pointed peaks alternate with intermountain plains. Some mountain areas have a stepped relief shape.
Ketmen - one of the mid-mountain ridges - is located in the eastern part of the Tien Shan. Its length within Kazakhstan is 300 km, width - 50 km, height - 3500 m. It is formed from effusive sedimentary rocks of the Paleozoic. In some places granite protrudes onto the surface of the relief. The slopes of Ketmen are dissected by the rivers of the Ili basin.
Kungey Alatau is included within the borders of Kazakhstan only on the northern slopes of its eastern part. The average height of this mountain range is 3800-4200 m. The eastern part of Kungei Alatau and Trans-Ili Alatau is separated by the valleys of the Charyn and Chilik rivers and the intermountain plain Zhalanash. The slopes of Kungei of the Northern Alatau are relatively flat and highly dissected, the peaks are leveled.
The Chu-Ili Mountains are located in the north-west of the Trans-Ili Alatau. They consist of individual hills that have undergone destruction and severe erosion (Dolankara, Kulzhabas, Kindiktas, Khantau, Alaigyr, etc.). The average height is 1000-1200 m. The highest point is Aitau, its height is 1800 m. The Chu-Ili Mountains were formed from Precambrian metamorphic rocks and thick layers of gneiss. Their surfaces are composed of sedimentary-effusive rocks of the Lower Paleozoic - shales, sandstones. The slopes of the mountains are dry, dissected by deep gorges, the peaks are leveled, to the northwest of these mountains the Betpakdala plateau is located.
The Kyrgyz Alatau is a large mountain system; its northern slope of the western part is located on the territory of Kazakhstan. Its highest peak is Western Alamedin Peak - 4875 m. In the Kazakhstan part, the height of the mountains does not exceed 4500 m. To the west they decrease. The northern slopes are subsided and destroyed mountains. The surface of the ridge is composed of sandstones, limestones and granites of the Carboniferous period. The ridge has an uneven, highly dissected surface. On the border with Kyrgyzstan, this ridge has an alpine relief type.
The Western Tien Shan within Kazakhstan begins south of the Kyrgyz ridge, beyond the Talas Valley. The Talas Alatau chain rises here (in the vicinity of the city of Taraz).
The Kazakhstani part of the Talas Alatau is the Zhabagly Mountains and the Sairam Range. The Zhabagly Mountains are divided into two mountain ranges: they form the Aksu-Zhabagly river basin (the height of the northern ridge is 2600-2800 m, the southern ridge is 3500 m). They are also composed of sedimentary and igneous rocks of the Paleozoic. The mountain slopes are dissected, bear traces of ancient glaciation, and are distinguished by an alpine type of relief.
The Tashkent Mountains consist of several mountain ranges extending southwest from the Talas Alatau. These include the Sairam Mountains (the highest point is Sairam Peak 4220 m), Koksu (the highest point - 3468 m), Ugam (the highest point 3560 m), Karzhantau (2839 m), Kazykurt (1700 m). Their geological histories are similar. All of them are composed of Paleozoic limestones. The mountain slopes are steep and the terrain is dissected. Karst phenomena are widespread.
The Karatau ridge is located on the western edge of the Western Tien Shan. It extends in a northwest direction for 400 km, its average height is 1800 m. The highest point is Mynzhylky (2176 m). To the north-west it decreases and already at the confluence of the dry beds of the Sarysu and Chu rivers, the mountain becomes a plateau. In terms of geological structure and relief, Karatau is similar to the Chu-Ili Mountains. It settles, collapses and levels out. The northeastern and southwestern mountain ranges of the Karatau ridge are separated by intermountain valleys. If its southwestern ridge was formed from Proterozoic metamorphic rocks, then the northeastern ridge was formed from Paleozoic sandstones and shales.
The valleys located between the two ridges are composed of red clay. Mesozoic and Cenozoic deposits of limestone, sandstone and clay are also widespread. The local relief was formed under dry climate conditions. There is no constant surface runoff. The slopes are dissected by large and small gorges and dry river beds.
A large reserve of minerals was found on the territory of Karatau. They are used to produce lead and zinc at the Shymkent Lead-Zinc Plant and to provide phosphorus raw materials to chemical plants in Taraz. Ores are mined by open-pit mining. Karatau is a source of building materials - gypsum, cement, etc., which gives the state large profits. The folded base of the southwestern and southern parts of the ridge formed in the Paleozoic era.
The main appearance of the Tien Shan relief was formed during mountain building in the Neogene and Anthropogen periods of the Cenozoic era. Proof of this is the earthquakes occurring in the Tien Shan. The general appearance of the mountain relief is not the same. The mountains alternate between high peaks, ridges with intermountain valleys, hilly plains, etc. The altitudinal belt of the mountains is formed in direct dependence on the geographical location and layout of the mountain ranges.

Climate, rivers and glaciers. The climate of the Kazakh part of the Tien Shan mountain system is dry, unstable, formed in winter under the influence of polar and in summer tropical air masses. It is influenced by Arctic air masses and the Siberian anticyclone. The height of mountain ranges and the variety of terrain affect the supply of heat and moisture. Therefore, in autumn and spring there are often frosts in the foothills of the Tien Shan. In the summer months, hot winds often blow - hot winds. The dry continental climate of the plains in the mountains gives way to a moderately humid continental climate. Winter is long, from October to April-May, summer is much shorter.
In Kungey and Terskey Alatau, snow sometimes falls as early as August and it becomes quite cold. Even in May-June there are often frosts. Real summer comes only in July.
The time of heaviest precipitation is May. If during this period it rains at the foot of the mountain, then snow falls on its peaks.
On the northern slopes of the Trans-Ili Alatau, even in the winter months there are often warm days. During the day the snow melts, at night the puddles become covered with ice. Such a sudden change in weather has a destructive effect on the rock.
The climate of the Western Tien Shan is influenced by the warm climatic conditions of southern Kazakhstan. Therefore, in the Western Tien Shan mountains the snow line is located higher than in the east. Here the average annual precipitation is higher - 600-800 mm. On the mountain slopes the average July temperature is +20°+25°C, at the foot of the glaciers -5°C.
Many rivers flow along the spurs of the Tien Shan Mountains and along the intermountain plains. The rivers Bolshaya and Malaya Almatinka, Talgar, Issyk, Chilik, Kaskelen originate from the northern slopes of the Trans-Ili Alatau, and the Charyn River originates from the eastern slopes of the Tien Shan. Many of them flow into the Ili River, the flow of which replenishes the water supply of Lake Balkhash.
The Chu River originates in the Kyrgyz Alatau and after crossing the border of Kyrgyzstan flows through the territory of Kazakhstan.
The Arys, Boraldai, and Bogen rivers flow from the southwestern slopes of Karatau. From the northwestern slopes there are some rivers that are fed by melted snow waters in the spring and dry up in the summer.
In the spurs of the Tien Shan there are lakes located in depressions between the mountain peaks. These lakes originate from glaciers. Below, in intermountain basins, small lakes form.
The peaks of the Tien Shan Mountains are covered with glaciers; their most powerful reserves are concentrated in the Chiliko-Keminsky mountain cluster. In the Trans-Ili Alatau there are more than 380 glaciers, which occupy mountain valleys with a total area of ​​478 km2. They are located in the upper part of the basins, where the Chilik, Issyk, Talgar, Bolshaya and Malaya Almatinka, and Aksai rivers originate. The largest glacier is Korzhenevsky (length 12 km).
In total, in the Kazakhstani part of the Tien Shan there are 1009 glaciers with a total area of ​​857 km2. Long-term melting of glaciers and heavy precipitation on hot summer days increase the influx of meltwater to lakes and rivers. This leads to water overflowing its banks and flooding begins. They cause great harm to the economy and pose a danger to human life.

Natural areas. Flora and fauna. The natural zones of the Tien Shan mountainous country vary vertically. These belts developed in direct dependence on the orographic pattern of mountain ranges and geographic location. Due to the diversity of the natural environment and the characteristic features of each mountain range of the Tien Shan, the same belts are not located vertically everywhere at the same height: in one ridge they are higher, and in another they are lower.
In the Northern Tien Shan there are four levels of altitude zones. If we count them from the very top, then they begin with glaciers, with alpine terrain covered with eternal snow. And in other ridges the belts begin at an altitude of 2600-2800 m, in others - above 3300 m. Here there are hilly hills surrounding bare rocks. Natural areas consist of subalpine and alpine meadows and high-mountain landscapes. The mountains are inhabited by leopards, mountain goats, snowcocks, and mountain eagles.
The next altitudinal zone is common in mountains of average height from 1500-1600 m to 3200-3300 m. Small-leaved and coniferous forests mainly grow on the northern slopes of the mountains. The plains are covered with meadows; on the southern slopes there are signs of steppe and meadow-steppe zones.

Spruce-forest belt.
1. Schrenk spruce.
2. Aspen.
3. Tien Shan rowan.
4. Honeysuckle.
5. Geranium is straight.
6. Siberian larch.
7. Siberian fir

Forests are found only in gorges. Animals inhabited by bears and roe deer.
The belt of low mountains is clearly visible in the Trans-Ili Alatau. Their height is 900-1100 m above sea level. They resemble the small hills of the central part of Kazakhstan. Various types of plants grow on the dark and dark chestnut soils of this territory: herbaceous, woody (pines), shrubs (meadowsweet).
The lowest altitude zone covers intermountain plains and the foothills of the mountains (they are located at an altitude of approximately 600-800 m). In these territories, signs of desert, semi-desert, and steppe zones are observed. Grains, melons and horticultural crops are grown here. Meadows are used as pastures for grazing livestock.
The altitude zones of the Western Tien Shan, compared to the Northern Tien Shan, are located 100-200 m higher. They are affected by the arid climate of Central Asia and less moisture. The types of soil and vegetation cover vary depending on the altitudinal zone. Asian and Indian plant species grow in the Aksu-Zhabagly Nature Reserve. And the animals living in the western spurs of the Tien Shan are noticeably different from the inhabitants of the Northern Tien Shan. There are more Siberian and European species of animals, and in the West there are animals similar to Mediterranean, African, and Himalayan species.
Reserves. In order to protect the nature of the Tien Shan, its flora and fauna, reserves and national parks were organized. Among them, the Aksu-Zhabagly and Almaty nature reserves and the Ile-Alatau national park occupy a large place.
Aksu-Zhabagly Nature Reserve (1927) - a repository of the pristine nature of the Western Tien Shan - is intended to protect 1,404 species of plants (including 269 rare ones), 238 species of birds, 42 species of mammals, 9 species of reptiles. The reserve is home to rare species of animals and birds: gophers, bustards, little bustards.
In the Almaty Nature Reserve (1961), 965 species of plants, 39 species of animals, and 200 species of birds grow. The snow leopard, brown bear, and deer are taken under protection.
In 1996, the outskirts of Almaty were declared the Ile-Alatau National Park. It is located on an area of ​​over 181.6 thousand hectares, on the northern slope of the Trans-Ili Alatau. Important nature conservation activities are carried out here.

1. Using the tectonic map of Kazakhstan, determine when the processes of mountain formation took place in the Northern and Western Tien Shan. Why does the Tien Shan belong to a seismic zone?
2. Using the climate map, explain the unevenness of precipitation in the Tien Shan.
3. What is the reason for the arid climate? Is it possible for the formation of a climate characteristic of the Tien Shan in its individual parts? Why, if possible?
4. Show on the map the glaciers of the Kazakhstani part of the Tien Shan. Explain the patterns of their location.
5. What explains the diversity of types of altitudinal belts in the Northern and Western Tien Shan?

Draw on a contour map a diagram of the location of the mountain ranges of the Kazakhstani part of the Tien Shan.