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The city of Izyaslav is considered one of the most depressing in the entire Khmelnitsky region. It certainly didn’t seem prosperous to me, but I didn’t see any extreme poverty there. At the same time, from the point of view of a tourist, Izyaslav, located in the north of the region, 100 km from Khmelnitsky, is of considerable interest. Very little ordinary historical buildings have been preserved here, but there are a number of outstanding sights, albeit often in ruins.

Izyaslav was first mentioned in 1096. However, the current city has no direct relation to the original one. Chronicle Zaslav was located near modern Shepetivka, in the area of ​​​​the village of Gorodishche (where, by the way, there is an interesting monastery with a cathedral in the Vilna Baroque style, a rare thing in Ukraine). Archaeologists excavated that Zaslav, found Detynets and a round town with a triple line of ramparts and ditches, a heap of human bones. It is assumed that on one not so wonderful day in 1241, this city was burned by the Tatars, and about one and a half thousand of its inhabitants died along with it.

After such a misfortune, in the second half of the 13th century, Zaslav was rebuilt, 20 kilometers to the east on the banks of the Goryn River. Over time, it became the personal property of Grand Duke Gediminas, then became part of the Volynian possessions of the Ostrozhskys, and eventually passed to the son of Prince Vasily Fedorovich Ostrogsky, Yuri, who became the founder of a new magnate family, which received the Zaslavsky surname from its main residence. Zaslav (or Zhaslavl, Zhoslav) flourished to such an extent that in the second half of the 16th century the Zaslavskys decided to found another city on the opposite bank of the Goryn. Thus, already in 1579, New Zaslav appeared on the maps:

And they [Yanush and Mikhail Zaslavsky] on the shaggy soil of their Old Zhaslavl, on the other side of the place of Old Zhaslavl, the place of New Zhaslavl, they wanted to lay siege to their belongings, they began to lay siege to their skin,- said the privilege, which in 1583 gave Magdeburg law to Novy Zaslav. Both Zaslavs had a castle, and in Novy the princes of Sangushki, to whom this double city passed after the extinction of the Zaslavskys in 1673, also built a palace. In 1792, the Ukrainian Izyaslavl even became a provincial town, and who knows what its fate would have been, but in 1795 the center of the Izyaslavl province was moved first to Novograd-Volynsky, and then to Zhitomir, and the province itself was renamed Volyn. Izyaslav remained only a district town.

There will be two big episodes about Izyaslav, there is something to see there. We examined it in a not entirely logical order, starting with Novy Zaslav. About him in the first part.

1. We disembarked from the train in Shepetovka. For the convenience of passengers, the bus station was built there at the other end of the city; it’s easier to take a taxi to Izyaslav from the railway station. We entered the city at dusk.

2. Shevchenko Street, one of the two central ones in Novy Zaslav, towards the exit from the city. Somewhere there is an abandoned (or semi-abandoned) military town, but, alas, we did not know about it. Previously, 100,500 Soviet military personnel were stationed in Izyaslav, which was the basis of its prosperity. After the disbandment of units that were not needed by independent Ukraine, Izyaslav began to mope.

3. However, we did see something similar to the pre-war DOS.

4. The pavilion with the name “Beer and Water” that caresses the nostalgic eye. It belongs to the Slavuta brewery (Slavuta is a city between Neteshyn and Shepetovka), which produces an interesting beer “Prince Sangushko”. Before leaving Izyaslav, I specifically ran here again to buy branded goods. The men, melancholy consuming draft Slavuta in the store, advised us to take the brewery’s new variety, “Princess Sangushko”. In general, these regions are simply a reserve for small, independent breweries. They are in Khmelnitsky, and in Berdichev, and in Slavuta. Thanks to this, the collection of corks from drunk beers was significantly enriched during the trip.

5. We went west, to Goryn, along the street. Shevchenko. The first attraction is already visible ahead.

6. Fire station.

7. The monastery of the Lazarite Fathers has been preserved in full: both the church and the residential buildings with which it is built on almost all sides.

8. Monastery complex with the Church of St. Joseph was built for the exotic Lazarite Order on the territory of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania in 1755. The buildings in the late Baroque style were designed by the outstanding architect Paolo Fontana, and the founder was the great Marshal of Lithuania Pavel Karol Sangushko

9. In fact, the church served as a brownie at the nearby Sangushek residence. Now it is still Catholic, but the residential buildings of the monastery are used by a wide variety of institutions: from a children's art school to the editorial office of the newspaper "Zorya Nadgorinnya".

10. Across the street from the complex (on the left) is the abandoned building of the monastery hospital.

11. This is how the Lazarite monastery looked in the watercolor of Napoleon Orda, who arrived here in 1872. On the right is Novozaslavsky Castle.

12. And this is how it looks now from a similar angle.

13. The side church bell towers are decorated not with crosses, but with such elegant crowns with palm branches.

14. Opposite the Lazarite monastery is the complex of the Novozaslavsky castle, the Zaslavsky palace and the Sangushek palace. These are all different structures, ultimately united into a single ensemble.

15. Plan of the complex. A: Sangushko Palace; B: Yard; C: Zaslavsky Palace; D: Old building of the Novozaslavsky castle; E: Local Government Building; F: Church of St. Joseph and the Monastery of the Lazarite Fathers; G: Lazarite Hospital.

16. We enter the territory of the Zaslavsky-Sangushek residence through the so-called. "Yard" (point B on the plan), a rectangular structure in projection, in 1759-64. uniting the newly built Sangushko Palace with the Zaslavsky Palace, surrounded on three sides except the east by galleries, and having monumental gates on the east and west. One of these gates is pictured. To their left is the side facade of the Sangushek Palace.

17. This is the so-called the Zaslavsky Palace, the far right part of which is a fragment of the Novozaslavsky castle, built during the founding of Novy Zaslav in the last quarter of the 16th century on the cape formed by the confluence of the Ponori and the Goryn.

18. And this is the side facade of the Sangushek palace, which did not fit into the residence of their predecessors and started construction of a new one.

19. In 1944, due to shelling by the Soviet army and the fire it caused, the palace complex was significantly damaged. After World War II, the Sangushek Palace was not used; the military converted only the Zaslavsky Palace and the Novozaslavsky Castle into dormitories and warehouses.

20. Church of St. Joseph from the ruins of the palace and castle complex.

21. In the early 1980s, the Soviet military finally stopped using the Zaslavsky Palace. It (pictured) quickly came into line with the neighboring Sangushko Palace.

22. The internal facade of the latter, facing the cape between the rivers.

23. This is how Napoleon Orda saw him in 1872. On the left is the Zaslavsky Palace and the Dvora Gallery, which unites the ensemble. At the right edge of the picture you can see a preserved building of unclear purpose.

24. A killer dog rushes from the Lazarite Church, which accompanied us throughout the entire exploration of this territory.

25. External facade of the Sangushek Palace.

26. Suddenly the sun came out and scared everyone.

27. The benches stand in front of the same building that appeared in the Horde’s drawing, to which two long extensions were made on both sides. Now there are medical institutions here, and the area between it and the Sangushek Palace is used for cultural events.

28. Beautiful drawings on the wall of an outbuilding.

29. They reminded me that we also have our own Izyaslavl.

30. From the territory of the Novozaslavsky castle there are good views of Stary Zaslav, located on the left bank of the Goryn.

31. Goryn is dammed. At the left edge of the photo (to the left of the church) is Starozaslavsky Castle. At the right edge, behind the trees, the complex of the Bernardine monastery is visible.

32. We’ll go to him in the next episode.

33. Nativity Church and the ruins of the Farny Church in Stary Zaslav.

34. Now let's look at Novy Zaslav itself. Self-propelled artillery unit ISU-152, another evidence of Izyaslav’s military past. It stands between the palaces and the monastery.

35. Shevchenko Street near the monastery turns towards the central square of the city, crossing the Ponorya River along the way.

36. Central square and bridge over the river.

37. Restaurant (?) "Goryn".

38. Monument to the victims of the Holodomor.

39. Area. Buildings from left to right: district administration, district council, secondary school.

40. The school has a monument to the founding of the city in 1096. As I already noted, the specified date has nothing to do with this particular place. Even the second Zaslav was not founded here, only the third.

41. Area.

42. View from here of the monastery and palace complex, hidden by trees.

43. School with a giant flagpole.

44. The honor board is in front of her.

46. ​​Izyaslavsky Lenin, very Western for Ukraine.

47. Sketch "Lenin and the District Committee".

48. We walked a little along Independence Street, another central Izyaslav highway.

49. Post office with a mosaic of the Ostankino TV tower.

51. Mysterious stencil.

52. Cafe "Ukrainian".

53. Former cinema, now the regional House of Children and Youth Creativity "Rainbow".

54. Memorial to internationalist soldiers with a bust of Hero of the Soviet Union, Lieutenant Onishchuk, probably a local native.

55. Perspective of Independence Street towards the exit from the city to Shepetovka.

56. Another high school, it looks like it was pre-war.

57. Let's return to the square and go along Grushevsky Street to Stary Zaslav.

58. On the road there is also a Glory Square with a war memorial.

About Stary Zaslav in the next part.

In previous episodes.

Heraldry Coat of arms
Izyaslavsky district

On a red field there is a silver cross. In the green chapter there are three golden crowns in a row. The shield is bordered by a wreath of golden ears and green oak leaves, wrapped in an azure ribbon with the golden inscription "Izyaslavsky District", and topped with a golden territorial crown.

Flag
Izyaslavsky district

The flag of the district is a rectangular panel with a width to length ratio of 2: 3, divided vertically into two parts - from the flagpole green (1/3 of the flag's width), on which there are three yellow princely crowns with a red outline, one above the other; the part from the free edge is red, on it there is a white cross (the width of the cross muscle is equal to 1/4 of the width of the flag).

Coat of arms

The coat of arms has the shape of a rectangle with a semicircle at the base. In the red field of the shield there is a silver city gate with three towers, each with one loophole and crowned with a princely crown and an open gate, in which a silver horseman in knightly armor holding a sword in his right, a blue shield with a gold two-level cross in his left, on a silver horse

Flag

Rectangular panel with an aspect ratio of 2:3, red. In the center of the flag is the city's coat of arms and the inscription Izyaslav.


Izyaslavsky district

Izyaslavsky district(Ukrainian Izyaslavsky district) is an administrative unit of the Khmelnitsky region of Ukraine. The administrative center is the city of Izyaslav.

Located in the northwestern part of the region.

It borders in the northeast with Slavutsky, in the east with Shepetovsky, in the southeast with Starokonstantinovsky, in the south with Krasylovsky, in the southwest with Teofipolsky, in the west with Belogorsky districts of the Khmelnytsky region. In the north it borders with the Neteshinsky City Council. In the north-west it borders with the Rivne region (Ostrog district of the Rivne region, Ostrog city council),

Population: 43,812 people (2017)

Area: 1.3 thousand sq. km.

The main waterways of the region are the rivers Goryn, Viliya, Khomora, Rotten Rog and others; Lake Svyatoe is located here.

The Shepetivka-Podolskaya-Ternopil and Shepetivka-Podolskaya-Starokonstantinov-1 railway lines and two territorial highways pass through the area: T 2313 - from west to east and T 1804 - from north to south.

(Ukrainian Izyaslav) is a city in Ukraine, the center of the Izyaslavsky district of the Khmelnitsky region.

It is located on the Goryn River (a tributary of the Pripyat), which divides it into two parts - the Old Town and the New Town. Railroad station. The distance to the regional center is 146 km.

The administrative center of the Izyaslav City Council, to which other villages and towns are not subordinate.

Population: 17,002 people

Telephone code: +380 3852

History of Izyaslav

Settlements on the territory of modern Izyaslav already existed in ancient times. During excavations in the vicinity of the city, polished flint axes and other tools of the Neolithic era were discovered. Near Izyaslav, in the Ostron tract, at the end of the 19th century. An ancient Russian burial ground was excavated, and craftsmen's tools, stone, glass, and iron products were found on the territory of the city.

Some historians believe that the formation of the city is connected with the activities of Prince Vladimir, when he, at the end of the 10th century, allocated one of the then largest Slavic settlements on the Goryn River to his son Izyaslav, making it the center of the estate, calling it Izyaslav, that is, due to Izyaslav.

According to another version, Izyaslav was founded by Prince Izyaslav Mstislavovich, where in the second half of the 12th century. along the Gusyni River, near the present village of Gorodishche (Shepetovsky district). In 1241 the Tatars destroyed this settlement, which was never rebuilt. A new settlement arose at the end of the 13th century. already on the Gorini River. At different times, documents record its slightly different names: Izyaslavl (XIII century), Zaslav, Zaslavl, Izyaslav (XIV - XX centuries).

At the end of the 13th century. the city was part of the Galician-Volyn principality. In the 14th century Izyaslav became the possession of the Ostrog princes, whose rights to the city were confirmed by a charter from the King of Poland Vladislav Jagiello and the Grand Duke of Lithuania Vytautas. In 1466, on the banks of the Goryn, the Zaslavsky princes (a branch of the Ostrozhsky family) began construction of a castle. Ramparts and other fortifications were built around the castle (their remains are still preserved).

XV-XVI centuries were alarming and restless for the city. Every 10-20 years Volyn was attacked by the Tatars. An attack of the Tatars on Izyaslav in 1491, battles under the walls of the city between the Polish army and the Tatars in 1534 and 1577 were recorded. They made great devastation in the vicinity of Izyaslav in 1618.

In the 17th century Izyaslav turned into a significant economic and commercial center in the south of Volyn. 1629 in the city there were 875 smokes, 4-4.5 thousand inhabitants - significantly more than in other cities.. The main branch of the city's economy was agriculture.

Events of the liberation war of the Ukrainian people 1648-1654. In Izyaslav they became an expressive manifestation of the class struggle of peasants and artisans against feudal oppression. In 1648, the troops of Bohdan Khmelnitsky, relying on the help of the population of the city and neighboring villages, took Izyaslavsky Castle. In subsequent years, Izyaslav and its surroundings became the scene of a brutal armed struggle between the rebel people and the Polish feudal lords. In 1652, a plague epidemic broke out.

After the end of the liberation war, Izyaslav and its surroundings, like all of Volyn, remained part of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth.

Feudal oppression and the deterioration of the situation of the working population led to a significant spread in the south of Volyn by the uprising led by Paly and Samus. In the winter of 1702-1703. It also spread to Sangushko’s possession. In 1712, a new explosion of anti-feudal struggle took place in Volyn. Crown Hetman Adam Sinyavsky noted that “willful” detachments were operating in the Ostroh Ordination area.

After the reunification of Right Bank Ukraine with the Left Bank as part of the Russian state during 1793-1795. the city was the center of the Izyaslav governorship in 1796-1797. - the center of the Volyn governorate district, later - the same province. In Izyaslav there were district institutions, a large staff of officials, garrisons of Russian troops were stationed: at the beginning of the 19th century - the Novgorod and Little Russian Grenadier regiments of the first army, led by M. I. Kutuzov, in 1812 - parts of the army of General Tormasov.

In the first half of the 19th century. Izyaslav remained a small town with small trade and crafts, although certain changes in its life certainly occurred. In Izyaslav there were weekly trades, 6 annual fairs, and there were about 200 different types of trading establishments.

In 1913, a railway track was laid through Izyaslav and a railway station was built.

Izyaslav, in terms of its cultural and everyday life, was a provincial town, backward even in comparison with other cities of Volyn. Only the central streets were illuminated by a few kerosene lanterns. At the beginning of the 20th century. The city was served by 15 cab drivers. There was a county hospital and several private doctors practiced.

In 1869, a city two-class school and an elementary school were opened, and about thirty years later - a women's higher elementary school and a one-year elementary school.

During the First World War, Izyaslav found itself in the area of ​​operations of the Southwestern Front. Here were the headquarters of military units, field hospitals and the like. There were continuous mobilizations of the population for rear work.

In February 1918, the city was occupied by Austro-German troops. In August 1919, the city was captured by the Petliurites. In the summer of 1920, the Red Army began fighting for the liberation of Podolia from the troops of the Polish occupiers and Petliurists. Izyaslav was finally liberated from enemy troops in the second half of November 1920.

On July 5, 1941, Izyaslav was occupied by the Nazis. In February 1944, the battles for the liberation of Izyaslav began, which were a striking example of close interaction between the Red Army and partisan detachments. Partisan fighting for the city began on February 16. By noon the enemy was driven out of Izyaslav. But a few hours later the Nazis, having received new reinforcements, attacked the New Town area. On the morning of February 17, a battalion of regular Soviet troops arrived to help the partisans.

Izyaslav, 2013, 2015

Khmelnitsky region

Ancient Izyaslav was located on the eastern border of the Volyn land between the Goryn and Sluch rivers. According to one of the historical versions, Prince Vladimir in the 10th century allocated an inheritance here to his son Izyaslav, according to another, the city was founded as a guard on the Kiev-Volyn border in the second half of the 12th century by the Volyn prince Izyaslav Mstislavich, who ruled here in 1135-1142.
The Galicia-Volyn Chronicle says that in 1241 the settlement was destroyed by the Tatars. Obviously, it was no longer restored.

In the second half of the 13th century, to the side, on the banks of the Goryn, the current city was rebuilt, to which the name of the previous one passed, changing over the centuries to Zaslav, Zhaslav, Zhoslav, until in 1910 the final one took root - Izyaslav.

After the collapse of Kievan Rus, Izyaslav became part of the Galicia-Volyn principality, and in 1321 it became a privately owned city of the Grand Duke of Lithuania Gediminas. Since 1386, it has been in the possession of the Ostrog princes, who had extensive estates in Volyn. In 1448, the city came into the possession of the son of Prince Ostrog - Yuri. Yuri became the founder of the family of princes Zaslavsky.

In 1673, the last prince of the Zaslavsky family, Alexander, died; his niece Maria married the Lithuanian Marshal Peter-Karol Sangushko, to whom the city passed.

In the 16th-17th centuries, Izyaslav became a major economic center; it was compared with Yaroslavl, Lvov and Lublin.

In 1793-1795, after the left-bank and right-bank Ukraine entered the Russian Empire, the city was the center of the Izyaslav governorship, in 1796-1797 - the center of the Volyn governorate, and later - the same province within Russia.

In 1765, 2807 Jews lived in Izyaslav,
in 1886 - 6633,
in 1897 - 5998 (47.6%),
in 1912 - 6365,
in 1926 - 3820 (32.6%),
in 1939 - 3208 Jews.

The Jewish community existed in Izyaslav since the 16th century. During the “Khmelnitschina”, most Jews fled from Izyaslav, first to Ostrog and Mezhirich, then to Dubno. During the capture of Izyaslav, approx. 200 Jews (sick and returning fugitives), the synagogue was destroyed and turned into a stable.
In 1708 there was a pogrom organized by Cossack detachments.
In 1747 and 1830, facts of “blood libel” were noted in India.

In the beginning. 18th century In Izyaslav lived a student of the Baal Shem Tov, the famous cantor Rabbi Mordechai. In the 18th century Rabbi Dovid was the rabbi in Izyaslav. After the death of Rabbi Dovid, his son-in-law Yakov-Shimon Shapiro became rabbi, who founded a Hasidic dynasty in Izyaslav. The dynasty was continued by his son Ishor-Doiv-Ber, then by his grandson Pinhos-Yosef Shapiro-Dehner.

In 1857 there were 14 synagogues in Izyaslav, in 1886 - 9, in 1889 - 10, in 1902 - 11. In 1886, a Jewish hospital, an almshouse, a library of Mark-Borukh Feld and his bookstore operated in Izyaslav, in 1909 there was a Talmud Torah (closed in 1913), male, female and mixed private Jewish schools.
In the beginning. 20th century Tsaddik Avrom-Yeshua Rosenfeld lived in Izyaslav.

30 Nov 1917 a pogrom occurred in Izyaslav.
In the beginning. 1920s an illegal Zionist organization operated.

After the occupation of Izyaslav by German troops on August 24, 1941, St. 1 thousand Jews, June 28, 1942 - still approx. 2 thousand Jews.
On January 20, 1943, the remaining Jewish specialists were shot in Izyaslav.
The 379th Division took part in the liberation of Izyaslav on March 5, 1944. communications battalion under the command of Major Lazar Khonovich Blushtein.

In the 1990s. The Jewish culture society “Einikait” was created in Izyaslav.

All R. XVII century the famous rabbi Nathan Hanover, author of the work “The Bottomless Abyss,” taught there

What to see

- Synagogue (Zaslavskaya str., 20)
- Jewish school (Ostrozhskaya street, corner of Bernardinskaya; now - school No. 3)

Other attractions

Ruins of the palace of princes Sangushko (Shevchenko street)
- Church of St. Joseph, baroque (Shevchenko st.)
- Castle (Zaslavskaya St., corner of Khmelnitsky)
- Bernardine Monastery (Gorky St.; now a prison)

Places of memory

Jewish cemetery with a symbolic monument (coordinates 50.12638, 26.80333)
- Memorial at the mass grave of Jews killed by the Nazis (in the forest, check coordinates on site)

Izyaslav (Ukrainian Izyaslav, Polish Zasław) is a city in Ukraine, the center of the Izyaslavsky district of the Khmelnitsky region. The distance to Khmelnitsky by railway is 146 km, by road - 103 km.

Geography

The city is located on the Goryn River, 127 km from Lutsk and 269 km from Kyiv. Railway station on the Shepetivka-Podilska-Ternopil line.

History of Izyaslav

Ancient Izyaslav was located on the eastern border of the Volyn land between the Goryn and Sluch rivers. The city was founded as a guard on the Kiev-Volyn border in the first half of the 12th century by the Volyn prince Izyaslav Mstislavich, who ruled here in 1135-1142. The Galicia-Volyn Chronicle says that in 1241 the settlement was destroyed by the Tatars. Obviously, it was no longer restored. The remains of ancient Izyaslav are a settlement near the village of Gorodishche, Shepetovsky district. The archaeological expedition of M. G. Karger excavated Detinets and a roundabout city with a triple line of ramparts and ditches. Traces of a large fire and many human bones were discovered. According to rough estimates, about 1.5 thousand people died there. In the second half of the 13th century, to the side, on the banks of the Goryn, the current city was rebuilt, to which the name of the previous one passed, changing over the centuries to Zaslav, Zhaslav, Zhoslav, until in 1910 the final one took root - Izyaslav. After the collapse of the Old Russian state, Izyaslav became part of the Galicia-Volyn principality, and in 1321 it became a privately owned city of the Grand Duke of Lithuania Gediminas. Since 1386, it has been in the possession of the Ostrog princes, who had extensive estates in Volyn. Their right to Izyaslav is confirmed by a charter from the Polish king Vladislav Jagiello. In 1448, the city came into the possession of the son of Prince Ostrog - Yuri. Yuri became the founder of the family of princes Zaslavsky. In the 15th-16th centuries, the city was attacked by Tatars every 10-20 years. In particular, there is evidence of attacks by Tatar troops in 1491, 1534 and 1577. In 1491, near Izyaslavl, a battle took place between the Tatars and an army led by the Marshal of Volyn, the governor of Novogrudok, and a year later by the Great Hetman of Lithuania, Semyon Golshansky and the Lviv castellan Nikolai from Gorodets. Another notable battle at Izyaslav took place in 1534 between the Tatars and the Cossacks of Wenceslaus Khmelnitsky, who, by order of the Polish king Sigismund I, was sent to block the road to a detachment of Crimean Tatars who had broken through from Crimea through Bessarabia. In 1673, the last prince of the Zaslavsky family, Alexander, died; his niece Maria married the Lithuanian Marshal Peter-Karol Sangushko, to whom the city passed. In the 16th-17th centuries, Izyaslav became a major economic center; it was compared with Yaroslavl, Lvov and Lublin. In 1613, more than half of the residents of Old Izyaslav were engaged in agriculture. 40% of the townspeople combined service, craft and trade with agriculture. According to the household register of 1629, two thirds of the cities in Volyn had up to 300 houses. In 1629, Old Izyaslav was considered a medium-sized city. New Izyaslav...