Tsandripsh is an old name. Tsandripsh, Abkhazia. Guest house "Golden Crown" Tsandripsh

The small village of Tsandripsh, with only 5,000 inhabitants, in the Gagra region of Abkhazia, is older than half of the world's capitals. Already in the first millennium BC. e. the future resort was chosen by ancient tribes, which were replaced by the Romans, and then by the descendants of the future Abkhazians. As a reminder of themselves, they all left a few buildings scattered throughout the village and surrounding area.

Over time, Tsandripsh, alas, did not grow; Even its popularity among the Soviet elite (one of Stalin’s favorite dachas stands nearby) did not turn the village into a resort on a national scale. Today it is still modest in size, not very rich in tourist infrastructure, but green, cozy and healthy.

Tsandripsh is perfect for a leisurely budget holiday. And the Russian border is only 5 km away; you don’t need a foreign passport. The only drawback (depending on who knows) is the exclusively pebble entrance to the sea. But if you have special shoes, you quickly forget about this.

How to get to Tsandripsh

The fastest and most convenient way to get to Tsandripsh is by air through the main air gate of the Caucasus - Adler Airport, located just 21 km from the village. You will have to travel the rest of the journey by public transport, train or taxi. Traveling by rail from the European part of Russia will take significantly more time, but there are options that do not require transfers. In addition, you can get to Tsandripsh without transfers by intercity buses going to Sukhum from Moscow and a number of cities in the Southern Federal District. You should also not lose sight of the option of traveling in your own car.

Read more about how to get to Tsandripsh.

Search for air tickets to Adler (the nearest airport to Tsandripsh)

A little history

In the middle of the first millennium AD. e. Tsandripsh (then called Sauchi) was the capital of the principality of Sanigia. It is believed that it was here that Little Abkhazia was born. In the 19th century, a Russian village was founded nearby, which then merged with the Abkhazian one. During Russian rule (until the end of the Great Patriotic War), the city was called Ermolovsk, and then, before perestroika, it was called Gantiadi. It is under this name that many Soviet tourists know Tsandripsh today.

Transport

You shouldn’t count on regular public transport, operating from early morning until late evening, in Tsandripsha. Yes, there are several minibuses running here, but when and where, perhaps, only their drivers know. Along the roads there are “Bus Stop” signs, but you can slow down public transport with a wave of your hand there - most likely, the attempt will be crowned with success.

If you need to return from somewhere in the evening, there is only one option - a taxi. The cost of a short trip on average will cost 100 RUB when called by phone. A bomber caught on the road can charge three times more. Prices on the page are as of September 2018.

There is no place to rent bicycles or even ride them here. To pick up a car, you can go to Sukhum or pick it up directly at the Psou checkpoint: there is a chance to get a Nissan X-Trail or Mercedes-Benz C-Class for 2000 RUB/day when renting for 7 days or more.

It is prohibited to drive a rental car into Russia!

Tsandripsha Hotels

Homelike Tsandripsh welcomes vacationers almost exclusively with guest houses and mini-hotels without any “stars”. However, they have everything you need: free Wi-Fi and parking, “breakfast only” meals (you can also agree on full board), TV, barbecue facilities, the distance to the beach is within a kilometer, and somewhere - even billiards , sauna or bathhouse. You need to clarify further about the air conditioner; in extreme cases, you can ask for a fan.

The average cost of a room in a guest house or mini-hotel is 1000 RUB (there are also 550 RUB), many of them work only on prepayment, but it is better not to pay more than 30% of the amount before arrival.

If you want something more luxurious and more expensive, you can rent a room in the 4* hotel “Eucalyptus Coast”, the pleasure will cost 4500 RUB (the price includes a free transfer, the hotel has a swimming pool), or rent a villa on the seashore with two bedrooms and a living room for 9000 RUB/night.

Beaches

There is no need to specifically look for beaches or drive several kilometers to them in Tsandripsha. I went ashore - and there it was, the beach. Incredibly long and wide, coarse sand closer to the forest and road, and large and small pebbles near the water. The purest blue Black Sea is included (after a storm it can be cloudy).

The beach is free, closer to the center there are rental points for umbrellas and sun loungers (from 100 RUB/day), as well as air mattresses and jet skis (from 300-1000 RUB/day).

The local coastline is perfect for families with children: the entrance to the water is gentle, and the bravest ones are invited to ride a banana boat. But what delights the kids the most are the dolphins, which often show up and sometimes swim quite close.

You need to watch the kids carefully: literally a couple of meters from the entrance to the water there is a great depth immediately.

The most beautiful section of the beach is located a little away from the village, between it and Gagra. It is called the White Rocks, because along the shore, from under the crumbling pebbles, huge boulders the color of snow stick out here and there; the same rocks surround a small beach. This is the largest area of ​​marble coming to the surface in Abkhazia. Dozens of vacationers come every day to admire the “rocks.”

Tsandrypsh

What to bring

In the tiny village there are no interesting shops, much less shopping centers. All the joy is the local market. Among the edible souvenirs you shouldn’t leave there without are natural honey, jam, incredible cheese, colorful scatterings of aromatic spices and herbs. If you find them, you can grab a eucalyptus broom and Abkhazian black or green tea.

Local products made from sheep and goat wool are very popular among visitors: mittens, socks, burkas, as well as clay and wooden crafts. Of the first, wine jugs will be an original reminder of the trip, and of the second, hot mats and all kinds of kitchen utensils. Another iconic Abkhaz souvenir is the “dzhezva” for brewing coffee. True lovers of an invigorating drink will appreciate it.

Cuisine and restaurants of Tsandripsha

The word “restaurants” is not particularly suitable for Tsandripsh establishments: they do not have luxurious interiors, exquisite drinks or outlandish dishes on the menu. But the food is very tasty.

The basis of Abkhaz dishes is meat, fish, eggs, dairy and fermented milk products. Among vegetables, cabbage, eggplants and tomatoes are held in high esteem. They know how and love to cook beans and all kinds of cereals here.

Those who want to taste local “delicacies” should order thick mamalyga porridge made from corn, juicy kebab, eggplants stuffed with nuts and herbs and, of course, hot adjika. Drinks include homemade wine and incredibly tasty lemonades.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner are offered in numerous canteens - most of them are in the center. A set lunch for two will cost 800 RUB, a snack of small khachapuri with a glass of lemonade will cost 100 RUB per person. Among high-level establishments, guests of Tsandripsh recommend “Caucasus” on the street. Lenin. Dinner for two with alcohol will cost about 2000 RUB.

Entertainment and attractions

In general, people don’t go to Tsandripsh in search of unique architectural structures or museums with a selection of wonderful artifacts. The sea, intoxicating air, natural beauty - that’s the main thing. But those who miss excursion holidays will also have something to do.

In the very center of the resort stands its main wonder - a perfectly preserved basilica built in the 5th century. They say that babies used to be baptized there, the dead were seen off on their last journey, and services were held. Today there are no excursions here, but it is definitely worth visiting this unusual structure.

5 km from the village, in the beautiful gorge of the Khashupse River, there is another ancient building - the Khashupse Fortress (43.429725, 40.12305). It is believed that it was built by the ancient Romans at the very beginning of the first millennium AD. e. Time has taken its toll on the once formidable citadel, but the outlines of the fortress in the grass-covered ruins can still be discerned. By the way, the Khashupse River itself is also miraculously beautiful - its canyons are especially picturesque.

Among the modern attractions, it is worth noting Stalin's dacha in Kholodnaya Rechka, 4 km from Tsandripsh (43.364761, 40.118183). Not only excursion groups, but also “savage” travelers are allowed there. The caretakers willingly tell fiction-like stories about one of the leader’s favorite dachas, as well as about himself.

Entertainment in Tsandripsha includes not very noisy discos, boat trips and rafting. In the village and its surroundings, three mountain rivers flow at once, flowing into the Black Sea, but the problem is that in some areas in the heat it naturally dries up, so there is no time for rafting.

You can continue your acquaintance with the rich history of hospitable Abkhazia on excursions to Gagry, New Athos, Pitsunda or Lake Ritsa. You can visit there either independently, setting off in a rented car or minibus, or as part of a tour group that gathers in all the villages located on the coast.

Weather

Tsandripsh is a typical resort village on the Black Sea coast: the air temperature here rarely drops below zero even in the middle of winter, and in the summer it is hot, which is only slightly compensated by the breeze. The tourist season lasts from May to October, but August may not be the most successful for a holiday: weather forecasters warn about the abundance of precipitation. Plus, the last month of summer is considered the hottest.

The difference between day and night temperatures is sometimes significant: even in June-August it is worth taking a warm jacket to the resort, and in spring and autumn - even take a jacket.

The Black Sea begins to accumulate heat in May and releases it for a very long time: even in early October, the water temperature remains comfortable for swimming.

Tsandripsh is a very small settlement. Even if we take into account the neighboring village of Gyachrypsh, which, in fact, forms one whole with the village, the total housing stock will be much less than in other resorts on the coast. Therefore, it is better to decide on a place to stay in advance by booking it before arriving. There are no large hotels, sanatoriums or recreation centers in the village. All areas are provided by private individuals. These are purpose-built guest houses or rental of standard living quarters for local residents. But the level of service here, oddly enough, is higher than in Gagra. Most likely, this is due to the influence of nearby Russian resorts, which force them to “keep their mark.” Prices in 2020 allow us to classify Tsandripsh as an inexpensive resort. All rental housing is located along the coastline, so this can also be called an advantage of the village.

How to get there

The village is located in the westernmost part of Abkhazia on the border with the Russian Federation. It was built in a valley formed around the bed of the Haushpse River, which flows into the Black Sea here. Another river flows between the village and the neighboring village of Gyachrypsh - Lapsy, and on the border with Russia the Psou River. Thus, the water off the coast of the village is very much renewed by mountain rivers and is therefore quite clean.

The Sukhumi Highway passes through the village - the main transport corridor to get to Tsandripsh. The most convenient way to get here is by road. There is also a railway connection in the village, but there are not many trains, and they do not run all year round, from May to October. From the Russian side, the best way to get to the village is through Adler. Both from the railway station and from Sochi airport you can get to the village by minibus or taxi. Only 5 km from the border. Moreover, when choosing a taxi, it is better to take one with Abkhaz license plates, it will be cheaper.

General information, history

Officially, Tsandripsh is today an urban-type settlement. In various sources, the name can be written as “Tsandrypsh”; in fact, it is the same thing. In Soviet times, the village was called Gantiadi, and many still use this name. Currently, about 5,000 people permanently live in the village.

The territory of the village was inhabited in ancient times. It is considered the historical center of Little Abkhazia. This is confirmed by the many ruins of ancient buildings that can still be seen in the village today. The first official settlement appeared here in 1867. It was founded by the Russians. The name of the village comes from the Abkhaz family Tsanba.

Today, holidays in Tsandripsha are considered to be family holidays. Life here is more measured and calm. From the point of view of the entertainment industry, it is difficult for the village to compete with Adler or Sochi, but this is not necessary. The local nature and the sea will attract their vacationers. To this you can add the Abkhazian flavor and low prices.

Things to do

Holidays in Tsandripsha can also be compared to an excursion tour through the history of Abkhazia. The key attraction that is a must-see is the Khashup fortress. This is a fortification structure of the 8th century, which has been well preserved to this day. It is located in the bed of the Khashupse River a couple of kilometers from the village. And right on the territory of the settlement there is the Tsandripshsky temple or basilica of the 4th century. This is an ancient baptismal church with tombs of the relics of martyrs.

For those for whom active recreation is more important, we can recommend trying your hand at rafting - rafting down mountain rivers, of which there are three in the village. And of course the very nature of the Caucasian coast, with its riot of colors and strange flora. Just wandering around the outskirts of the village will not only be exciting, but also very useful.

Climate in Tsandripsha

Average monthly air temperature by month

Average monthly water temperature by month

Beaches

Local beaches can be called the widest on the entire Caucasian coast. They can reach depths of up to 200m. This is due to the fact that the mountain range is somewhat removed from the coastline. The beaches are mostly covered with large and small pebbles, so slippers are highly recommended. The total length along the sea is about 6 km, i.e. the entire built-up residential area of ​​the village overlooks one or another section of the beach. All beaches are equipped with a well-developed service industry. The bottom is quite flat, although there is no particularly shallow water. Near the village there is a wild beach, which locals call “White Rocks” because of the white rock formations that formed this place.

Latest reviews about holidays in Tsandripsha

We've been vacationing here for more than a year. We liked everything very much, we plan to come again. Homely atmosphere, comfortable like home. The hosts are very good-natured and did not ignore our requests and wishes. It was cool in the summer of 2019, so they brought us blankets)))
Thank you for the warm welcome, we will definitely come to you again

Very late, but still, finally, I am fulfilling my duty to this wonderful family and their new guests - I am writing a review about an unforgettable vacation in this house! I couldn’t get myself together because I was completely immersed in the children and work, immediately upon returning home. This was such a period in my life. Now, during the holidays, I sincerely want to make up for my shortcomings on this issue)
A year and a half has already passed, and the three-week vacation with Aunt Valya and Uncle Garik still warms my heart with memories!
I was vacationing in Tsandripsha with my one-year-old daughter; my eldest daughter, 9 years old, was nearby at a sports camp. I was looking for housing specifically near the camp so that I could sometimes meet with my eldest daughter. In the middle of our vacation, my husband joined us and the three of us already lived with Valentina and Garik. All previous reviews are absolutely fair - the family welcomes guests like family! Valya has perfect cleanliness, order and comfort everywhere.
The owners warmly welcome guests and think every day that people will be filled with warmth and care during their vacation. I want to return to this house again and again.
For a modest fee, the owners provide guests with cozy, clean, bright rooms. All the amenities of the house, shower, washing machine. Comfortable outdoor kitchen with all the necessary utensils. With a one-year-old child, I never needed anything. When my home blender broke down, Valya immediately brought me hers! For example. There are a lot of little things like that. The owners, when necessary, took us to the market and to the children's store! They tried to help, advise and make our holiday carefree!
When we first arrived it was low season and there were few guests. Closer to July, the house was 100% full, but everyone felt comfortable together, thanks to the hospitable hosts, the guests made friends and communicated with each other in a way that was comfortable for each family.
The owners organize amazing evenings with dancing and conversation over dinner. They have wonderful grandchildren who sometimes dance national dances for guests. They also make excellent company for little guests. My baby was constantly surrounded by the attention and care of Milana and Emil, the grandchildren of Valya and Garik.
Thank you to the whole family for our wonderful vacation and your hospitality! If you go to Abkhazia again, then only to you!!!

Thank you for the rest, Comrade Anya, Seryozha and Gayana. All liked it. It was our first time in Abkhazia, it took us a long time to choose a place and didn’t regret it. Everything you need is there, hot water is always available, air conditioning in the rooms, photos correspond, close to the sea, and most importantly QUIET. There is a minibus to the center nearby. Many families have been coming here for decades. This says a lot. We will definitely come again. I recommend you come.

Hello everybody!!! The whole family of 7 stayed with these wonderful and friendly people. Two children and five adults. The atmosphere is as if you grew up and were born there, everything is so homely and cozy. The rooms are very clean, there is air conditioning, shower and toilet right in the room, TV, WF, the tangerine garden was amazingly beautiful, a huge summer kitchen with gas stoves, refrigerators, TV. There is a lot of space for evening gatherings, barbecue, skewers, coal, everything is there, everything is so cozy and beautiful, just super. The hosts are very, very hospitable, just great guys. You get the impression that you have known them your whole life. As for the sea, it’s clean, no poisoning, the children drank in sea water and nothing happened, no one got poisoned or got sick. The sea is exactly 5 minutes walking distance. There are just a lot of shops, there is a wonderful canteen, you can order shish kebab and smoked trout directly to your home through the owners, very convenient. We booked a tour in a Mitsubishi jeep, absolutely great. The children are delighted. By the way, we booked the excursion from the owners, as they say, everything in one place. They have a family business. Well done. The most impressive trip is the Gegsky waterfall, I just recommend it’s very cool, it’s so huge when you look up at the waterfall it makes your head spin. Yes, as for the sea in September, it is warm, the beach is pebbly. We will definitely go there and to this guest house “Svetlana”. I really want to thank these wonderful and kind people for their hospitality, thank you. By the way, we were met at the border by car and driven back too, very convenient. There is even a dog named “Zeus” as if it were his own. My family and I can’t wait to go there again. We will definitely come in 2020. I recommend this guest house to everyone. Thanks for all!!!

This is not the first year we have been vacationing with Zhanna and Igor, but before we even leave, we want to go back (before reaching the border, by the way). The atmosphere is so cozy and homely that during the winter my niece constantly says that we should go and live with Aunt Zhanna and Uncle Igor. Thank you for our unforgettable vacation, we look forward to the summer and to you again!

Basic moments

Tsandripsh attracts tourists with its spacious pebble beaches, warm climate, plenty of sun, the possibility of sea swimming, clean air and luxurious Abkhazian vegetation. The village is very green, eucalyptus trees, Pitsunda pines and cypresses grow on the streets. This place is popular with parents with children and those who like to spend their holidays in the lap of nature, away from the noisy amusements of large resort towns.

Accommodation and food in Tsandripsh have always been inexpensive, and the road to the resort village from the railway station in Adler or Sochi airport is not difficult. During the summer season, shops, canteens and Abkhaz national cafes - apatskhi - operate in the village, and discos open in the evenings.

For lovers of active recreation, the resort village organizes rafting along mountain rivers, jeep trips and paragliding flights. In addition, from Tsandripsh there are bus excursions around Abkhazia to the Sukhumi Botanical Garden and Monkey Nursery, to New Athos, to Lake Ritsa, to the Anakopia Fortress and the Geg Waterfall.

History of the village

The territory where Tsandripsh now stands has been inhabited since ancient times. In ancient times, Tsandripsh had the status of the capital of several principalities. There was an important trading port here, which flourished until the rule of the Ottoman Turks. The settlement was of great importance for Abkhazia. This is evidenced by the ruins of ancient fortresses and temples that archaeologists discovered in Tsandripsha itself and its immediate surroundings.

In 1867, the Russians founded a village on the coast, which received its name from the name of the famous Abkhaz family Tsanba. In Soviet times it was called Gantiadi. Many residents continue to use this name today.

Beaches of Tsandripsha

The pebble beaches of Tsandripsha are considered one of the best in Abkhazia. They stretch for almost 6 km, so from any part of the residential area you can go to one or another section of the beach. The shoreline is wide, up to 200 m, and covered with medium and small pebbles. Sea water is very clean. The descent into the sea is gentle, but there is no large area of ​​shallow water.

In the summer, the beaches of the resort village have everything you need for a comfortable stay. Tourists can rent sun loungers and sun umbrellas, use toilets and changing rooms. Vacationers go on boat trips, ride jet skis, banana boats and parachute behind a boat.

Basilica

The temple, revered by the Abkhazians, stands in the center of Tsandripsh, not far from the seashore (Oktyabrskaya St., 155). The Christian basilica was built in the 6th century. The building is built of rough-hewn stone blocks, has three naves and three projecting altar apses. Nowadays, the ruins of the basilica have the status of a cultural monument and are under state protection.

When archaeological excavations were carried out near the ancient temple, experts found a piece of white marble slab with inscriptions. It was a text about an unknown historical person indicating his title - “Abagsky”. In addition, archaeologists discovered other marble fragments around the basilica. All this suggests that in ancient times the temple was very revered among the local residents. Converts were baptized there, funeral services were held for the dead, and the relics of Christian saints were venerated.

It is known that in the 10th century, the people who lived here thoroughly restored the basilica. They replaced the dilapidated wooden floors with new stone beams, which is why the ancient temple managed to survive many centuries and is perfectly preserved to this day.

White Rocks

3.2 km southeast of the basilica there is a unique natural monument - the White Rocks. A section of coastline made of cliffs and stones of white and light gray color stretches at the exit from Tsandripsh towards the village of Kholodnaya Rechka. You can get here on foot along the seashore or by road.

The White Rocks are the only exit of marble layers to the sea on the territory of the republic. This is a very picturesque place where all vacationers in Tsanripsha and those who spend their holidays in other resort areas of Abkhazia try to get to. The beach near the White Rocks is good for swimming. It is not crowded here, and you can only meet fishermen and a few vacationers. Photographers love to visit picturesque rocks. The snow-white cliffs, worn by the sea surf, blend perfectly with the azure sea and serve as an excellent backdrop for portrait photographs.

Stalin's Dacha

From the White Rocks it’s less than a kilometer to Stalin’s dacha. The historical building is located in the neighboring village of Bagripsha or Kholodnaya Rechka. The house stands on a high cliff, rising 350 meters above sea level, and offers excellent views of the Black Sea and the coast. They climb up to the dacha along the serpentine roads. A picturesque pine forest stretches around the green two-story building.

Nowadays, you can go inside the house on a tour and explore the premises, the total area of ​​which is 850 m². This includes a bedroom, living room (meeting room), bathroom, spacious dining room and basement. On the second floor there is a billiard room with a fireplace and a cinema.

All rooms inside the historical building are decorated with wood, and in some rooms valuable Karelian birch is used to decorate the walls. It is noteworthy that the length of the bed in the bedroom is only 180 cm, and all the furniture has been preserved from Stalin times. The window glass in the country house is made of thick crystal.

Khashup fortress

5 km from Tsandripsh there are the ruins of the Khashup fortress, which got its name from the Khashupsa River. The ancient citadel rises on a rocky cliff overgrown with dense forest. They get to it from the village of Khashupsa, which is 3 km from Tsandripsh. A dirt path leads to the cliff along the river valley. Now the ruins are overgrown with yew and thorny brambles, and offer excellent views of the picturesque coastline.

According to historians, fortifications in the mountain river valley appeared in the 1st-2nd centuries, and were built by the Romans. The fortress protected the gorge from enemy attacks from the sea. The citadel was surrounded by a powerful stone wall up to 2 m thick.

Individual fragments of this wall, the height of which reaches 8 m, have survived to this day. In addition, in the fortress you can see the ruins of towers, loopholes and outbuildings, containers carved into stone in which water was stored, and worn-out steps of an ancient stone staircase. On the territory of the settlement there are ancient burial grounds and dolmens.

Where to stay

Most tourists choose the economical private sector of Tsandripsh for their holidays. Several guest houses have been built in the village; the owners rent out turnkey rooms and houses to resort guests. In addition, there is the opportunity to stay at the more comfortable Abkhazia Park Hotel. Tsandripsh is small in size, and all the housing in the resort village is stretched along the coastline and is located close to the beaches.

Some tourists prefer to stay 3 km from Tsandripsh, in the village of Khashupsa. Here, in a picturesque location near a large trout pond, there is a campsite where travelers can stay in tents or small houses.

How to get there

Tsandripsh is located in the western part of Abkhazia, 5 km from the border with Russia. It is connected by roads with Gagra and Sukhum. By car you can get to the resort village along the M4 and M27 highways. The border crossing procedure is simple and takes 10 minutes.

The nearest Sochi airport to the village is located in Adler. If you plan to travel by train, you must also take tickets to Adler. Although there is a railway line through Tsandripsh, trains rarely run here, not all year round, but only during the holiday season - from May to October.

From Adler to Tsandripsh it is only 13 km, and by bus or minibus you can get to the resort village in 20 minutes. Those who want to come to Tsandripsh by taxi should opt for cars with Abkhaz license plates. This will make the trip cheaper.

The small urban village of Tsandripsh is located in the Gagra region of Abkhazia. The population is about 10 thousand people. I would call it an Armenian village, because I didn’t have a chance to see Abkhazians.

I asked our hostess:

Where are the Abkhazians?

She explained:

Abkhazians live high in the mountains, and there are only two of them left in the village.

The village of Tsandripsh is sandwiched between the federal highway leading from Adler to Sukhumi and the old neglected Sukhumi railway running along the seashore. So there is no way to avoid the railway on the way to the beach. You can get through: either by overcoming the embankment with the railway track, or from below - through a tunnel.

We noticed two tunnels in the village: one closer to the center, the other on the outskirts - in the White Rocks area. We were able to see the train going to Sukhum a couple of times - the train was very short, only a few cars.

And now I would like to talk about the warmest and nicest place in the village - the White Rocks. This is perhaps the main attraction of Tsandripsh. The White Rocks are located at the exit from the village towards the Kholodnaya River. You can reach them in about an hour in two ways: either by the seashore or along the main street towards Gagra.

The rocks are really absolutely white and smooth, lying right at the water's edge. They were created by nature itself - and the sea waves have painstakingly worked for centuries to polish them.

The central street, Oktyabrskaya, pierces the entire village and merges beyond its borders with the federal highway. This street is a very pitiful sight - most of the houses are in gaping ruins, so it is better not to look around.

At the foot of the destroyed buildings there are open kiosks under bright umbrellas - these are retail outlets selling some souvenirs, beach accessories and small items. Trade brightens up the feeling of devastation a little.

In the fragments of the first floors of houses that have been preserved in some places, there are small shops selling groceries or pharmacies. There are several cafes in the village and even a canteen on the corner of Lenin Street - but the very appearance of these establishments is repulsive. At the beginning of the main street, near the bus station, there is a small and scarce fruit and vegetable market.

I note that there has been no post office in the village since the war. We asked the hostess many times: how could this be? There was only one answer: there is no post office in the village. We also learned from her stories that in past years Tsandripsh was quite comfortable and prosperous.

Several successful enterprises operated - a winery, canning and crushed stone factories, and a tobacco factory. Wine and tobacco were produced under the mark of quality and were mainly exported. Now none of this is there - everything is destroyed and looted.

If you walk a little deeper from the main street into the residential area, the eye immediately catches the contrasts. Houses are clearly divided into three main types: miserable, dilapidated shacks, solid, newly rebuilt houses, and unfinished huge mansions, long abandoned by their owners - most likely during the war.

The only food market, where the population actually buys food, is open only three times a week: Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. Active trading begins at 6 am, and after 11 there is nothing to do there - you can’t buy food. Prices are very high, much higher than in Moscow. I'll write about them a little later.

I would like to note an important detail: there is no embankment in the village - there is only a long pebble beach. There is nowhere to walk in the evening - no park, no square - just vacant lots. That’s why vacationing young people like to hang out on the beach at night: guitars, music and beer brought with them - everything is there...

Abkhazia has very short daylight hours - it gets dark early. Absolute darkness sets in around eight o'clock in the evening. And in the evening, only one central street in the village is illuminated - and that’s in the place where the 24-hour store is located...

There is nowhere to go. Therefore, during the long Abkhaz evenings, vacationing people are doomed to either watch TV, or stupidly drink beer, or try to sleep after nine in the evening... True, this is problematic - pop music thunders from the only restaurant in the village until four in the morning. By the way, in the evening you can only get to this establishment with a flashlight in your hand, otherwise you will break your legs; only the main street in the village is paved.

Closer to the morning, when the restaurant rhythms fall silent and you try to fall asleep, another story begins: packs of stray dogs start battles on a huge garbage heap rising right in the center of Lenin Street.

Since we are talking about the animal world, we should also mention other representatives of the fauna. Chickens roam freely on the streets, finding their food in the same street mountains of garbage.

Here, not only stray cats walk on their own, but you can also suddenly meet a cow. One morning I headed to the grocery store and on the street I met a lonely horned cow, who accompanied me on the way there and back.

If we talk about small animals, I saw real scorpions for the first time. They constantly lived on the walls of our toilet, coexisting peacefully with huge fat snails. And at night evil mosquitoes attacked - but these are trifles.

I have already said about the global mountain of garbage on the street named after the proletarian leader, which was shared by dogs at night and chickens during the day. Imagine another picture like this. In front of the tunnel leading to the beach, I had to watch Russian resort ladies in hats and multi-colored pareos parading in the direction of the beach.

And the old woman’s daily fashion show took place against the backdrop of three unchanged scenery: a huge garbage dump, an old abandoned cafe and a local peasant sitting by the road. This little guy was selling some kind of red wine bottled in plastic bottles, as well as a local delicacy - dead stingrays, spread out at the bottom of an old zinc trough...

Just beyond the tunnel there is a pebble beach. However, getting closer to the blue sea is not so easy. To begin with, we had to go around the beach garbage heaps, consisting of the results of the vital activity of vacationers during the holiday season. A ridge of garbage mountains stretched along the entire beach - all the way to the White Rocks.

There was not a single place for swimming on the entire shore - there were no small pebbles to enter the sea. So there was only one opportunity to swim - to swim in special shoes or directly in flip-flops.

There weren’t many people on the beach, but it was still not possible to swim calmly in the sea. Hot horsemen on their jet skis and motorboats rushed right over the heads of the bathing public - trying to attract the attention of vacationers and earn as much money as possible at the end of the fading season...

I forgot to mention the theft of money by local telecom operators. In Moscow, we prudently put a decent amount of money on our phones - just in case there is a fireman. We did not have information that when crossing the border it is necessary to manually select an operator.

Three days after our arrival, four thousand rubles disappeared. We spoke with Moscow only a few times, and very briefly.

And when we went to find out the reasons for the outage at the local communications office, they popularly explained to us old fools that there was nothing unusual here. As soon as visitors get within the coverage area of ​​the local network, their money is like that...

Continued in part five