Basco city. The Basque country reveals its secrets. Cuisine and restaurants of the Basque Country

Scientists are still arguing about who the Basques are and where they came from. However, as well as about the language spoken in this Autonomous Community in addition to Spanish. The Basques themselves call their language Euskara, and scientists are inclined to believe that this language appeared here long before any Indo-European language. There is a hypothesis that Euskara was preserved thanks to the local inaccessible mountains. Once upon a time, Iberian tribes who spoke this language settled here. Then the Romans appeared on these lands, introducing the Latin language. But the fact is that the routes of the Roman invaders ran far from the northern part of Spain, where there was nothing but inaccessible mountains.

Located in northern Spain. In the west it borders with Cantabria, and in the east with France. Interesting fact: the Basques have been separated for many centuries by the geographical border between Spain and France. The entire Basque land occupies a little more than 20 thousand sq. km, 17 thousand of which are located in the territory of modern Spain, and the rest in France.

Autonomous Community of Basque Country consists of three provinces: Biscay, Guipuzcoa, which are located on the coast of the Bay of Biscay or the Cantabrian Sea, as the locals call it. The third province is Alava, located slightly to the south and has no maritime borders.

The coast of the Autonomous Community is called Costa Basca and attracts tourists with a combination of pristine beaches that give way to wild cliffs. Wildlife lovers will also enjoy the Basque Country, as there are a lot of places and secluded places preserved here that can only be reached along walking paths.

The capital of the Basque Country is the city Vitoria. It also has a second name - Gasteiz. This is what they write on all maps and signs: Vitoria-Gasteiz. The city was founded in the 12th century and has still not lost the charm of its quiet cobbled streets, parks and squares.

Bilbao- the largest industrial and financial center of the Basque Country. The city's population is over a million people. The transport infrastructure is well developed here, there are a huge number of museums and cultural centers. Modern Bilbao is full of energy and life, it is growing and developing and happily opens its arms to travelers.

One of the main attractions of this city is the Guggenheim Museum. This is a stunning building, clad on the outside with titanium plates, and on the inside offering visitors a magnificent collection of modern paintings.

City San Sebastian(second name Donostia) is the largest city in the province of Guipuzcoa. It stretches along a bay with pristine white sandy beaches. At one time, San Sebastian was the summer residence of Spanish monarchs, and now in September it hosts the famous film festival, so there are plenty of glamorous beau monde, even if not of royal blood, on its streets at this time.

Lumo is a name that will tell almost nothing to anyone, but if you use the second name of the city - Guernica, everything will immediately become clear. On the eve of the Second World War, this city was subjected to severe bombing, which Pablo Picasso reflected in his famous canvas. Now on one of the streets of modern Guernica hangs a huge reproduction of this painting.

The Autonomous Community of the Basque Country has many monuments and attractions to see, and this area of ​​the country is famous for its delicious cuisine. Perhaps the reasons for this fame are the proximity to France, or perhaps the strong Basque tradition of preparing food exclusively from fresh ingredients. If you have the opportunity, be sure to try the local cuisine!

The Basque Country, like other northern regions of Spain, is often called “unusual Spain”. Despite the fact that I don’t really like such definitions, to some extent this is true. The uniqueness of the people inhabiting these lands, an unusual and absolutely incomprehensible language, mountains covered with green forests, the cold and harsh Bay of Biscay, a surprisingly harmonious neighborhood of antiquity and modernity, large beautiful cities and small neat villages, delicious wine and exquisite cuisine. We saw all this in the Basque Country. The nature here is different, the culture is different, but still this beautiful region is part of Spain.

When my husband and I first decided to go to the Basque Country, and this was only a few years ago, we were faced with very general and often unreliable information about this region of Spain in Russian-language sources. Our knowledge was limited only to the Guggenheim Museum, Basque separatism and the tragedy in Guernica. Now, after several trips to these fabulous places, we can confidently say that this is one of the best tourist destinations in Spain.

How to get there

The path to the Basque Country, located in northwestern Spain, is not short. The distance from Moscow to Bilbao is 3,700 km, so the fastest and cheapest way is air travel. Is there an alternative? Judge for yourself.

By plane

So, let's go to the Basque Country by plane. There are no direct flights either to Bilbao or from Russia, but it is quite easy to find convenient flights with one connection. An alternative to such a flight would be a combination of flying to Spain and traveling to the Basque Country by train. This option will especially appeal to those who don’t really like unnecessary takeoffs and landings.

By plane from Moscow to the Basque Country

• Bilbao. A fairly large number of daily Lufthansa flights to both Moscow and Bilbao makes it possible to combine a convenient flight. In most cases, transfers are made at Frankfurt airport, less often in Munich. This way you can reach Bilbao in just 5-6 hours. In addition to the German airline, connecting flights are operated by Brussels Airlines with a transfer, respectively, in Brussels. The cost of a round-trip flight is from 230 EUR without luggage. By the way, about luggage. Despite the fact that you will fly to Spain from the European Union and go through passport control upon transfer, your luggage is considered to have “arrived from abroad”. And in Bilbao there is a separate room and a separate belt for such luggage. Having encountered this for the first time, we were about to go write a missing persons report when we saw our lonely suitcases in the next room.
• San Sebastian. Flights to this city from Moscow are much less convenient and also cost more. Transportation is carried out mainly by Spanish companies Vueling, Iberia and Valencian Air Nordstrum. There are connections in Madrid with Aeroflot flights, the most comfortable, in my opinion. You can get to San Sebastian in at least eight hours, but these are night flights and transfers. During the day - about 15 hours. The cost of a round-trip ticket is 370-390 EUR.

By plane and train from Moscow to the Basque Country

• Flights from Moscow to Barcelona operate daily, travel time is 4.5 hours. The cost of a round-trip ticket is 200-250EUR. If you are going to continue your journey by train, you can choose between transfer cities based on the cost and convenience of flights for your dates. This is explained by the fact that travel time and the cost of a train ticket to any city in the Basque Country are almost the same.
• From both Madrid and Barcelona you can reach Bilbao, San Sebastian or Vitoria by train in just over 5 hours on average. The cost of a promotional ticket starts from only 21 EUR.

By plane from St. Petersburg to the Basque Country

• Bilbao. Connecting flights from St. Petersburg, as well as from Moscow, are operated by Lufthansa. The flight with a connection in Frankfurt will take about 8 hours, a round-trip ticket will cost about 250 EUR.
• San Sebastian. The cost of the flight is almost the same as from Moscow - about 390 EUR, but the trip is possible with only two transfers. This is quite long and, of course, inconvenient.
• There are no direct flights from St. Petersburg either to or to Barcelona, ​​so the option of traveling by train from these cities loses its attractiveness. The easiest way to fly is to Bilbao. And if Bilbao is not your final destination, go from there to your vacation spot. The most convenient way to get to the suburbs is by metro; La Union bus company will take you to Vitoria; Pesa or Alsa will take you to San Sebastian. I don’t recommend traveling by rail - it’s very long, there are no high-speed trains yet.

By train

Train? Not the best way to travel such a long distance. You can get from Moscow to Moscow in 38 hours; a coupe will cost about 18,000RUB (290 EUR). From Paris to the French town on the border with Spain, Ondayi, the journey will take about 6 hours and cost at least 60 EUR. That's it, you have already reached the Basque Country. True, the French part of it. Another half hour on the regional train, Euskotren, and you are in San Sebastian. However, there is no direct flight to Bilbao. In total, a one-way train trip will take about 2 days and cost about 360 EUR. A little expensive for such adventures, in my opinion.

By car

Traveling in your own car is, of course, possible. Only it will take 4-5 days for such a trip across Europe. Therefore, it can hardly be considered as a way to move from point A to point B. But as a separate trip, it’s quite possible; however, such a trip will take much longer. The same can be said about traveling by bus. This option is possible, but it will take a lot of time, you will have to make countless transfers, and the resulting cost will be high.

By ferry

By sea. By the ocean. Regular flight connections to Bilbao are only with English Portsmouth, which somehow doesn’t really suit us. So you can only get to the Basque Country by sea on a cruise ship; such ships call at Bilbao.

Clue:

Basque Country - the time is now

Hour difference:

Moscow 2

Kazan 2

Samara 3

Ekaterinburg 4

Novosibirsk 6

Vladivostok 9

When is the season? When is the best time to go

When to travel to the Basque Country? Many people recklessly think that since this is a region of Spain, the southernmost European country, it is always warm here. Just think, the north, this is the Spanish north. Not certainly in that way. Very often in the fall, and especially in the spring, the local weather can be much colder than in our middle zone. Or maybe not. So, when preparing for a trip to the Basque Country, you need to be prepared for frequent rains, even in summer, and sudden changes in the weather.

And the high season here, of course, is summer. With corresponding prices, of course. Let's take a closer look at all the seasons.

Basque Country in summer

Real summer begins in the Basque Country towards the end of June, but June itself is not very stable. Night temperatures in June are still low, and there is often fog in the mornings. If it doesn't rain. And it rains often. Not surprisingly, the Basque language has many words for different types of rain. One of them: sirimiri - light rain with tiny droplets, almost like a suspension of water in the air, a very common occurrence. In July, the air temperature confidently crosses the mark of 25 degrees, but rarely rises above thirty.

In August the situation remains almost unchanged. It rains only a little less frequently than at the beginning of summer. The water temperature in the Bay of Biscay in July warms up to 20-22 degrees, in August it can be even higher. So on sunny days it is quite possible to swim. Housing prices reach their peak in August; the best options for this month are sold out almost a year in advance. There are, of course, a lot of tourists, but they cannot be compared with the crowds in the most popular Spanish cities. But the main beaches are very crowded in good weather.

Basque Country in autumn

Autumn can be divided into two or even three seasons. September is practically summer, with wonderful weather, with ocean water temperatures remaining almost at August levels, and with the absence of critical air temperatures. In addition, prices are slightly lower than in August, and there are slightly fewer tourists. In October, the weather begins to deteriorate a little, but the mountain slopes and vineyards are painted in fantastically beautiful colors.

Housing prices by this time are already practically minimal. November is the rainiest month in one of the rainiest regions in Spain. Of course, you can always find something to do, but I won’t recommend a trip in November.

By the way, if you choose between November and, for example, January or February, choose the winter months, they are drier.

Basque Country in spring

Spring continues to rain heavily, even in May there are half of the rainy days here. But in spring the gardens bloom, the meadows are covered with flower carpets, and the air is filled with aroma.

In my opinion, spring is a good time to travel, you just need to dress correctly. In addition, unlike the southern regions, it is not difficult to find housing with heating that will work as long as needed. Even in June (by Spanish standards this is spring) we were pleasantly surprised by the working heating in all our overnight accommodations. Of course, such amenities are not available everywhere; you need to check when booking. Housing prices in the spring, except for Easter week, are very low, and there are few tourists.

Basque Country in winter

Many will say that there is nothing to do in the Basque Country in winter. Constant rain, sometimes snow can fall. Rains are not so bad; the situation is worsened by strong winds, especially on the coast. I agree that the weather is not very touristy. But there are also clear days. Moreover, it is in winter that the Bay of Biscay remembers that it is part of the ocean, and shows itself in all its glory and with all its power. You're unlikely to see this in the summer.

What else is good about winter? Of course, minimum housing prices. I know that many tourists do not even book hotels in advance, staying where they liked best. I would also like to note that the Basque Country, although small, consists of two climatic zones. Humid Atlantic weather is typical for the coast, while in the mountainous regions of the province of Alava the climate is continental and precipitation is much less frequent. True, in winter it is much colder here than on the coast, the temperature often drops below zero, and there is snow.

Clue:

Basque Country - weather by month

What are the prices for holidays?

The Basque Country is not exactly a budget region; the average cost of housing here is quite high, especially in high season. Sitting in a restaurant or cafe will also be more expensive than the Spanish average. But I should note that high prices in the region correspond to high quality. But in stores the prices are the same as everywhere else. The same applies to public transport.

• The price of a double room in season is from 50EUR (in San Sebastian - from 100EUR);
• The price of a bed in a hostel is from 20EUR (in San Sebastian - from 40EUR);
• The cost of dinner for two is from 50EUR to...
• Lunch set menu (menu del dia) - 13-15EUR (sometimes above 20);
• Bus fares between major cities start from 7 EUR;
• Taxi - 2EUR/km during the day, 3EUR/km at night;
• One trip on public transport - 1.5EUR;
• A glass of wine/beer and pintxo - 3-6EUR on average (according to the “special offer” pintxo-pote from 1EUR);
• Ticket to the museum - 3-7EUR.

Main attractions. What to see

This is not the first time the question about the main attractions of the Basque Country has made me think. Everything is beautiful and interesting in this region: cities with their incredible and harmonious interweaving of all possible eras, small pueblos towns, so similar in their hospitality and so different, churches whose walls preserve the memory of many centuries, beaches and rocks, hills and vineyards. .. At the same time, there are no super-top world attractions here, except perhaps the Guggenheim Museum. Therefore, in my top list there will be places that I still managed to highlight, being a little upset and offended for those that were not included in this list.

To visit a certain network of museums at a discount in the Basque Country, there is a discount, which can be obtained absolutely free of charge at the tourist office or at one of the museums. Your first visit to the museum will activate your card. Please note that the Guggenheim Museum is not included in this list.

Top 5

Traveling in a gondola, which is essentially public transport, will cost only 0.4 EUR; for a car you will need to pay 1.6 EUR. Climbing to the top of the bridge and walking along it is a tourist attraction; such a ticket costs 8EUR, with a museum card - 6.3EUR.

Beaches. Which ones are better

The beaches of the Basque Country are beautiful despite the fact that they very rarely please swimmers, but often surfers. Here you can find a wide variety of beaches: from wild and secluded to fully equipped urban ones. All are good, but here is my list of the best.

• One of the most beautiful city beaches not only in the Basque Country, but throughout Spain, is La Concha beach, located in San Sebastian. Its name comes from its shape - a shell; in the center of the bay is the island of Santa Clara, and on both sides the beach is framed by the mountains Igueldo and Urgul. The water in the Bay of Biscay is quite cool, and in the shallow La Concha Bay it warms up better, which adds to the popularity of the beach. Almost all possible services are available on the beach: showers, rental of sun loungers and umbrellas, toilets, lifeguards, canoe rental and children's slides and trampolines.

The embankment fencing is made in the form of a white figured lattice, which, in combination with lanterns, is an excellent frame for the blue waters of the bay.

• Zarouts Beach(Zarautz) is the largest beach in the province of Guipuzcoa, its length is 2500m. There is room for everyone here - the beach is divided into three zones. The western part is reserved for swimming; families with children come here to spend the day. The central part belongs to the surfers. In the eastern part there are dunes where you can take pleasant walks. Sarauts has a pleasant embankment, decorated with sculptures, and children's playgrounds.

• Playa de Laida located in the Urdaibai nature reserve. The length of this beach with fine golden sand is about a kilometer, but every month its area changes depending on the ebb and flow of the constantly drifting Urdaibai estuary. The best time to visit this beach is at low tide, when you can see the beautiful contrast of green meadows with fine golden sand that covers the shores. Mainly, of course, this beach is suitable for water sports, especially for surfers. But in the absence of waves, it is quite possible to swim here with children. The beach is equipped with changing rooms and toilets, and there is a cafe. There is a popular campsite nearby.

• Beaches of the village of Barrika are just 3 km from Plencia metro station. Secluded chamber Muriola.

And no less cute Barrica, which nudists love.

Both beaches are wild; to get to them you need to go down the stairs. The third, Meñakoz, is completely open to the sea and is popular with surfers.

• The beaches of Arrietara and Atxabiribil in Sopelan can also be reached by metro from Bilbao. At low tide, the water moves away from the rocks separating these two beaches, and they become one. There are often good waves here, so there are a lot of surfers. On calm days the beach is also good for swimming. The beach is equipped and there is ample parking nearby.

Churches and temples. Which ones are worth visiting?

The Basque Country will be of great interest to architecture lovers. You can visit churches of the Romanesque period, Gothic, temples of later periods, including modern ones. I will highlight the most significant ones.

• Cathedral of Santa Maria de Vitoria or Old Cathedral of Vitoria Gasteiz was erected in the 12th century at the very top of the hill that rose in the center of the city. The cathedral has been rebuilt many times and is currently undergoing restoration work. However, the cathedral is open to visitors with an organized tour. This is a unique opportunity to experience the mystery of the restoration of an ancient Gothic temple.

• Bilbao Cathedral, named after the official patron of the city, the Apostle James, was built at the end of the fourteenth century in the Gothic style. Throughout its life, the cathedral was rebuilt and restored; its facade and tower, which we see today, are made in the neo-Gothic style. The last major restoration was in 2000. Particularly noteworthy are the cathedral's cloister, La Puerta del Angel (also known as the Pilgrims' Gate) and the tower.

• Basilica of Begoña in Bilbao, located in the Santutxu district of Bilbao, is one of the most famous temples in Vizcaya. On the night of August 15, many people come here to worship Begoña, who is the patroness of Vizcaya. Sailors also consider her their patroness, because since the 16th century, when the modern church building was erected, the first thing they see is the church spire. The basilica is located on a high hill and offers a beautiful view of the city.

• Buen Pastor Cathedral in San Sebastian was built at the end of the 19th century. The three symmetrical naves of the cathedral form the shape of a Latin cross. The cathedral was built in the neo-Gothic style and is crowned by a 75-meter bell tower. A special pride of the temple is the organ; it was installed in 1954 and at that time was the largest in Europe.

Museums. Which ones are worth visiting?

When talking about the museums of the Basque Country, I will not dwell on the Guggenheim Museum, you already know about it, don’t you? There are quite a lot of interesting museums in the region, I’ll tell you about some of them.

• Bilbao Museum of Fine Arts was the most visited museum in the Basque Country until the Guggenheim Museum opened. The museum displays more than 8,000 works by Basque artists, the earliest paintings dating back to the 12th century.

• Basque Museum located in the center of Bilbao. The most interesting exhibition of the museum tells about the history, culture and traditions of the Basque people. The collection began in 1917-1920, these were private donations, and currently the museum displays about 20,000 exhibits.

• 30 km from Bilbao, in the restored medieval tower of Tore Loizaga, you can see the largest and only one in Europe private collection of Rolls Royces. The museum displays 75 cars, 45 of which are Rolls Royces. This is impressive. Since the museum is private, please pay attention to the visiting hours: it is only open on Sundays and public holidays from 10.00 to 15.00.

• Aquarium in San Sebastian- the oldest natural science museum in Spain. It was opened in 1928, and in 1998 a swimming pool and an underwater tunnel were built. The museum is divided into three zones: a tunnel with a 360-degree view, themed aquariums and an area where young researchers can touch the inhabitants of the seabed.

• Great couturier Cristobal Balenciaga born in a small town on the Atlantic coast. In 2011, a museum was opened in this town, Getaria. It was housed in the Aldamar Palace, which belonged to the family that once supported the young Balenciaga. The opening was attended by Queen Sofia, Hubert Givenchy and many Spanish designers. There were many scandals associated with the construction of the museum, however, it works and is open to the public. The museum displays about 1,200 items of clothing and accessories designed by the designer. Interesting? Visit, especially since the town itself is very attractive.

Parks

The Basque Country cannot boast of high mountains or open ocean, but the nature here is unusually good. It evokes great respect for the way such wealth has been treated here in recent years. The region has many protected areas, and great efforts are being made to preserve and restore the natural environment. I will note those parks that are especially interesting.

• A real gem among the natural parks of the Basque Country is the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve, located along the Oka River. Urdaibai is a variety of ecosystems and landscapes, hills, forests, swamps, the Atlantic coast, as well as authentic towns and historical monuments. These places are so good that you can spend a whole vacation here, getting a lot of different impressions from the sea, landscapes, gastronomy, and walks through historical places. There are many walking and cycling routes here. And if you collect Game of Thrones filming locations, here's another one for your collection.

• The highest waterfall in Spain, Salto del Nervión, is located in the province of Alava. The location of the waterfall on the border of the provinces of Burgos and Alava is the cause of some disagreements between the inhabitants of these regions. The waterfall is unusually beautiful, but, unfortunately, it is very rarely a waterfall. Even in winter there is a chance that there will be no water. A visit is recommended in early spring and preferably after heavy rains. I would like to note that this mountainous region will appeal to lovers of natural beauty, even if the waterfall doesn’t work out.

• The Valdejero Natural Park does not occupy a very large area, but will certainly appeal to lovers of hiking routes. The most impressive one is along the Puron River gorge.

• In the Lagunas de Lagardia Biosphere Reserve, a huge variety of birds can be observed between September and March. The vineyards of Rioja Alavesa, painted in autumn colors, complete the picture.

• In the province of Guipuzcoa, the most interesting, in my opinion, is the Aiscori-Arats Natural Park. This is the highest mountain park in the Basque Country, if you can call the mountains that way, with the highest point being one and a half thousand meters.

But the beauty of a landscape is not always determined by height. One of the most interesting routes in the park starts from the Otzaurte gate, leading to the San Adrian Tunnel. The route follows a medieval road that was built on the site of an ancient Roman one leading to Astorga. A tunnel of natural origin, in the 19th century a chapel was erected in it.

The peak of Mount Aiskori is popular among climbers.

Neighboring regions

While in the Spanish Basque Country, many travelers also visit its French part, because the distances are very short and there are many interesting places.

Biarritz

Biarritz, a fashionable French resort, attracts Russian travelers primarily for its connection with Russian history. Alexander Blok, Maximilian Voloshin, Sergei Diaghilev, Anton Chekhov lived here. Little Nabokov was brought to this resort, popular among the Russian aristocracy. Fyodor Chaliapin had a villa here. The modern Russian writer Vasily Aksenov also had a house in Biarritz. The Russian quarter is still preserved here, and the “Russian seasons” are an integral part of the city’s history. The Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, built with funds from Empress Maria Feodorovna and Russian patrons, is simply called the “Russian Church” in the city. The dominant feature of the city is the Hotel du Palais, a luxurious nineteenth-century palace built as the residence of Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III. Walking along Grand Beach, you can simultaneously enjoy views of the ocean and many of the city's attractions. This is the famous Municipal Casino, the Church of Saint-Eugene, the atmospheric port of Pesce, a cliff with a statue of the Virgin Mary, to which an Eiffel overpass leads.

Bayonne

The capital of the French Basque Country, Bayonne, is located in close proximity to Biarritz, and there is a city bus service there. If Biarritz is an aristocratic resort, then Bayonne is a residential city, which, however, has its own charm and flavor. In the narrow streets you can find ancient fortifications, and medieval buildings have been preserved. The elegant Cathedral of St. Mary is interesting; its construction began in the 13th century and was completed until the 19th century. But many tourists, and especially female tourists, are attracted to Bayonne by chocolate. Chocolate production dates back to the 17th century; secrets and mysteries were brought here by Jews fleeing Portugal. This region is also famous for its hot red pepper; sometimes these products, chocolate and pepper are combined.

Particular attention is paid to pepper in the village of Espelette.

Saint-Jean-de-Luce

The town of Saint-Jean-de-Luce went down in history in 1660, thanks to the wedding of the French King Louis XIV and the Spanish Princess Maria Theresa. The church where they got married and the palaces of the newlyweds, overlooking the picturesque fishing port, have been preserved here. I was especially impressed by the Infanta House; in the light mist of rain-sirimiri, it was as if shrouded in an airy pink haze. The town itself is pretty, the red and white half-timbered buildings typical of the Basque Country add cheerfulness even in the rain. What was also surprising compared to Spain was that on Sunday afternoon almost all the shops and shops in the city were open. And this is out of season. But there were so many people on the streets that it seemed to me that the season in these parts is a very relative concept.

Food. What to try

The cuisine of the Basque Country, perhaps, should be included in the top list of its attractions. When I first arrived in the Basque Country, I realized that those who call these places a gastronomic paradise are not at all mistaken. Indeed, the level of local restaurants is very high, and even in the simplest village tavern you will be fed incredibly tasty homemade food. San Sebastian has 9 restaurants that have been awarded Michelin stars, all the others also maintain this high bar.

Here, gastronomy is an art that is taught in the family, various competitions are held, families unite in communities to cook together, and the University of San Sebastian has a gastronomy department.

The first thing that pleasantly surprises a traveler is the huge number of bars that serve an incredible variety of pintxos. Once upon a time, this was the name for a simple slice of baguette with any food, held together by a cocktail stick - pintxo. The traditional ingredients were olives, peppers, and anchovies. Today it is simply not possible to talk about any specific recipes; all the goodies that are available in this region are used. And that's more than enough. Fish, seafood, mushrooms, vegetables, herbs, pickles, smoked foods, all kinds of cheeses... The combinations are very tasty, sometimes unexpected.

While walking around Basque cities and certainly going to bars, trying more and more new pintxos, try to still leave room for a “real” lunch. Indeed, in addition to these small masterpieces, local cuisine will give you many more pleasures. If you want to get acquainted with the local cuisine, I recommend trying typical Basque dishes:

It would be strange to talk about local cuisine and not mention drinks. As elsewhere in northern Spain, one of the most popular drinks here is cider. It is made from fermented apple juice without added sugar and carbon dioxide, the alcohol content is about 4.5 degrees. The main cider production is located in the northeast of the province of Guipuzcoa. The cider season is from the second week of January to April and is available in bottles all year round.

The coastal towns of Zarouts and Getaria grow grapes and produce Txakoli, a young white wine with pleasant fruity notes. It goes perfectly with local fish and seafood dishes. Winemaking in Getaria dates back more than five centuries.

We, like many tourists, love to get acquainted with local products not only in restaurants, but also by preparing something ourselves. When buying food, especially at the market, you plunge into the life of local residents entirely. I’ll tell you about the most famous and largest Basque markets.

• The Ribera market in Bilbao is the largest indoor market in Europe, and was included in the Guinness Book of Records in 1990. It is located in Casco Viejo on the site where there has been a market square since the fourteenth century. The modern Art Deco building was built in the twenties and was reconstructed in 2010, changing color but not shape.
• The San Martin market in San Sebastian is not so famous and old, it was opened at the end of the 19th century, and the modern building was built in 2005. This does not make the range and quality of products any worse.
• Vitoria's largest market is located in Plaza Abastos, and on Thursdays and Saturdays there is an open-air market in Plaza de Mercado.

These are the markets that you will find in major cities. And the markets of Guernica, Villafranca de Ordisia and Tolosa are considered the best and most famous in the Basque Country.

In all large and small cities you can find chain supermarkets: Eroski, this is a Basque chain, which means “place to shop”, Carrefour, Lidl, Dia, BM Urban. In addition to chain stores, there are many small shops; for example, I recommend buying fruits and vegetables there.

Holidays

Tamborrada in San Sebastian

Tamborrada, the annual festival in San Sebastian, undoubtedly deserves the title of Spain's biggest festival. Exactly at midnight on January 19, this is St. Sebastian's Day, drumming begins on Constitution Square. The most important holiday of the residents of San Sebastian is held in any weather, even rain or snow. Tradition takes us back to the war with Napoleon; during the occupation of San Sebastian, French soldiers walked through the streets of the city to the beat of drums. Basque women fetching water taunted the soldiers by banging their barrels. A large share of participation in the celebration falls on the culinary communities of the townspeople, which is why many drummers are dressed in chef’s uniforms. Also popular at the festival are traditional Basque women's costumes and military uniforms from the early 19th century.

On the morning of January 20th, a children's parade is held with various competitions, where the general and the beauty of Easo (San Sebastian) are chosen. On the same day, the mayor of the city awards distinguished citizens. Throughout the day, costumed processions continue with the beating of drums, and at midnight everything ends in the same place where it began.

Virgen Blanco in Vitoria Gasteiz

From 4 to 9 August, festivities in honor of Virgen Blanco are held in the capital of the Basque Country, Vitoria. It must be said that the history of this festival is not that long; it was first held in 1957. The celebration begins at the Plaza de la Virgen Blanco, where thousands of people gather to see Celedon, a sort of Mary Poppins in male form, descend on his umbrella. In fact, the main character of the event symbolizes the local peasant and he is dressed in clothing typical of the region.

During the holiday, many concerts, bullfights and various entertainment events are held. Many townspeople dress in clothes of a certain color, and many participants also wear national costumes. The holiday ends with a farewell to Celedon and fireworks.

La Semana Grande in Bilbao

Big Week (La Semana Grande Bilbaina or Aste Nagusia in Euskera) is a holiday of great importance for the Basques, its tradition was revived after the death of Franco. The organization of this event is carried out by a special commission, which also became possible only after the end of the dictatorship. The dates of the festival depend on the church calendar; in 2017, for example, it will be held from August 19 to 27.

The holiday begins with the ceremonial launch of the txupinaso rocket and the announcement of the beginning of the holiday. And launching a rocket and proclaiming the beginning is a responsible matter, and for this, every year, eminent citizens are chosen who put on special costumes. There are a huge variety of carnival bands performing throughout the city throughout the week. One of the main characters is Gargantua, who eats children - a stylized slide. There must be a bullfight. The arena in Bilbao has a first category and stands out for its black volcanic sand.

The holiday ends with the ceremonial burning of the Marijaia doll.

La Semana Grande in San Sebastian

Big Week is also held on the same days in San Sebastian. Its central event is the international fireworks competition. Every year the sky over La Concha Bay is decorated with an incredible spectacle. Bars, restaurants, hotels overlooking the beach - everything is crowded. It's hard to even just find a place to enjoy the spectacle.

In addition to the festival, the city hosts many other events. These include the inevitable processions of large dolls, concerts of modern, classical and jazz music, horse racing, rowing competitions, a beach volleyball tournament and much more.

Needless to say that during the festival the city’s population increases several times?

Safety. What to watch out for

The Basque Country is a very hospitable and calm region of Spain. It is difficult to imagine any dangers that await tourists here. To be honest, we haven’t even met the traditional signature collectors for tourist cities in recent years. These are, you know, the kind of guys who offer to vote for the protection of whales in Alaska, and at the same time throw in a little money. There is no need to sign anything; save your active citizenship for your home country. But you still shouldn’t neglect the usual safety rules, that is, you shouldn’t leave anything visible in the car, and don’t leave money and valuables outside the hotel safe.

But what you really should beware of is excessive overeating due to the fact that it is simply impossible to stop.

And, of course, you shouldn’t joke with the ocean by challenging it. This is truly life-threatening.

Things to do

• Go out into the open ocean in pursuit of whales. You can also see dolphins and many seabirds. Such trips are organized from the ports of Santurzi and Bermeo, last 8-9 hours, and take place from July to October.

• Go on a trip to pintxos bars.

• Or go on a real hike along the coast or into the mountains. There are a lot of routes. You can do this by bike; the number of rental offices will pleasantly surprise you.

• Catch a wave at Mundaka Beach. This is, of course, for the young and fearless.

• Be sure to attend one of the countless local festivals, have fun and eat food with the Basques.

• Bungee jumping from a bridge or from a cliff into the ocean; many such activities are offered in the Basque Country, including for beginners.

• The most important and best thing to do is look at the ocean, breathe the ocean, listen to the ocean, see off the setting sun and dream about the day when you return here.

Extreme Sports

The Basque Country has a long tradition of surfing and all the conditions for practicing this sport. Along the entire coast you can find surfing spots and surf spots. There are many surf camps in the region where you can learn this difficult and dangerous craft.

• One of the most famous and popular is Surfcamp Zarautz, located just a five-minute walk from the beach of the same name. It is open year-round and offers surf lessons for all levels. There are also many interesting events and excursions organized here.

• Moana Surf Hostel on Arrietara-Atxabiribil beach, Sopelana. Moana Surf Hostel is located in a picturesque area and in close proximity to some of the best surf beaches on the Basque coast: Sopelana, Barrika, Bakio, Getxo, Mundaka...

• Situated in the beautiful dunes of Laga Beach at the mouth of the Urdaibaya River and next to Mount Ogoño, Laga Surf Camp is perhaps the best on the Basque coast. After all, here you can find the best waves for all levels. In addition, Mundaka beach, with the best left wave in Europe, is just 5 minutes away.

Souvenirs. What to bring as a gift

Lately, gastronomic souvenirs have become very popular. To be honest, I like them myself. I see the joy such souvenirs bring to my friends, and I myself wouldn’t mind receiving something tasty as a gift. Of course, the Basque Country is part of Spain, and such traditional gifts as olive oil and jamon are also brought from here. If you want to please your loved ones with something special, I advise you to pay attention to Idiazabal sheep cheese, nominated by origin. It is produced in 150 villages in the Basque Country and Navarre.

Typical alcoholic souvenirs of the Basque Country include Txakoli wine, cider, pacharan and Rioja Alavesa wines.

Many of us want to bring something that will last a little longer than delicious souvenirs. Typical souvenirs of the Basque Country will be national berets, wine flasks (botas de vino), the covers of which are made of natural materials and are quite expensive.

Also ceramic figurines, national dolls, possibly silver jewelry. Of course, everyone’s favorite magnets, souvenir plates, ashtrays and much more are presented here in a large assortment.

Shopping and shops

Shopping in the Basque Country is as good as in other regions of Spain. There are large shopping malls and small cute shops here.

El Corte Inglés is represented in the Basque Country in two cities: Bilbao and Eibar, a small town located in a picturesque valley on the road from Bilbao to San Sebastian and famous for its football club and the production of weapons. When traveling by car, stopping by is very convenient.

Bars

The Basque Country is the land of pintxos bars. These wonderful establishments are everywhere, but the gastrobars of San Sebastian are considered the best. In every bar, a huge number of cold pintxos are displayed on the counter, making your eyes wide open. They are usually washed down with cider, but, of course, you can also drink wine or beer. Cider is poured into a third of a glass and drunk in one gulp. However, this is not necessary either. They eat and drink here, as it should be in bars - at the bar counter; those who do not have enough space or want to smoke crowd at the doors of the bar.

Many bars have an additional menu posted - usually hot pintxos, which are prepared to order. Good bars will definitely have a lot of people, this is one of the sure signs that are easy to navigate. Going to pintxos bars is not a cheap pleasure, the snacks are small, the assortment is huge, you want to try everything. The cost of one pintxo is 1.5-5EUR.

Basque Country - holidays with children

The Basque Country offers many opportunities for traveling with children. If you don't prioritize the warm sea where you plan to splash around with your little one all day, the region is otherwise excellent for children. Probably the first thing that catches the eye even of those whose children have long grown up is the well-equipped playgrounds, most of them with a soft springy surface.

The most interesting place for children will, of course, be the aquarium in San Sebastian.

Little ones (those who don’t get seasick) love boat rides, for example, in the Urdaibai nature reserve; boat trips are also possible from San Sebastian, Bermeo and other coastal towns. Sailboat excursions are organized from Getxo Old Port.

It is interesting to go down into the caves of Cuevas de Pozalagua.

In San Sebastian, on Mount Igueldo, there is an ancient amusement park.

The bravest parents dare to put their children on the board.

Ski holiday

Conditional areas. Descriptions and features

The Basque Country is small, the distance between its three main cities is about 100 km. This means that, having settled in any place you like, you can make comfortable radial trips within one day. The Basque Country, and we are talking today about official Spanish autonomy, includes three provinces: Gipuzkoa, Vizcaya and Alava.

Each of them is worthy of attention, and it would be more pleasant to stay somewhere on the coast of the Bay of Biscay, or in large cities. This is a matter of personal preference and travel goals, but if you plan to travel frequently by public transport, it is better to stay in a city that has a major transport hub. This is Bilbao or . It will be cheaper to rent a house in Bilbao than in San Sebastian. And in San Sebastian you will live on the shores of the Bay of Biscay. A difficult choice, of course.

Vizcaya

The main city of the province of Vizcaya and the largest city in the Basque Country, Bilbao can offer the curious traveler many interesting places, historical and ultra-modern. These are the Guggenheim Museum, the Subisuri Bridge, Abando Station, the Nervión River embankment, the San Mamés football stadium, the historical part of Casco Viejo and much more. You can read more about Bilbao. In the province itself there are many interesting places that are interesting to visit, and which can be chosen as a base for exploring the region.

• Bilbao's suburbs are easily accessible by metro. Of course, all travelers certainly go to see the incredible “flying” ferry, the Biscay Bridge, in Portugalete.
  
• Getxo is very good - a former fishing village, which at the beginning of the 20th century turned into a fashionable summer residence of the nobility with the light hand of Queen Maria Cristina. Walking along the embankment, it is interesting to look at the beautiful mansions, especially since each of them is equipped with a sign with information.
  A colorful area with many fish restaurants, the Old Port, has been preserved in Getxo.
  
• The final metro station is the resort town of Plencia. There is a huge sandy beach, and the town itself combines everything that a seaside resort needs. In addition to impressive beaches, the city has a small historical part and a pleasant promenade along the river of the same name, which flows into the bay of the same name. A very good place to spend your holiday here, especially considering the metro to Bilbao. Distance to the city - 25 km.
  
• Moving further along the coast, you can drop into Armintsa, a small village located in a very beautiful bay. There are a couple of good fish restaurants and a beach here.
  
• Many people might not have gotten to Bakio, which is pretty but simple and entirely made up of modern buildings, if it weren’t for the path to one of the most impressive places in the Basque Country, San Juan de Gaztelugatxe.
  
• San Juan de Gatelugatxe is a 14th-century hermita located on an offshore island. A staircase leads to it from the “mainland,” which has repeatedly been included in various top lists. I advise you to allocate several hours for a trip to this place, excluding the road, even if you plan to go here by car. From the parking lot to the stairs you will still need to go down, and then climb up to the island along a countless number of steps. Not quite and countless: only 237 steps. You will spend about an hour on all the descents and ascents back and forth. The place is incredibly beautiful and impressive. There is a restaurant near the parking lot, and, in my opinion, more than one, so on the way back after the climb you can drink something refreshing or have lunch with a magnificent view of the ocean.
  
• San Juan de Gaztelugatxe can also be reached from Bermeo. This town with a picturesque harbor that looks like it came out of a picture has a long history dating back to the 13th century. For two centuries, the 16th and 17th centuries, Bermeo was the capital of the province of Vizcaya. There are several interesting churches, an 18th-century town hall, Casa Kinkubero - a building in the shape of a ship, and the inevitable fish restaurants. From here you can start the route through the Urdaibai nature reserve.
  
• The world surfing championships were held in the town of Mundaka until 2007, since the waves formed at the mouth of the river are unique. After work in the fairway of the bay, those same unique waves no longer form, and championships are no longer held. But the waves that exist now are still quite good, constant, there are many schools and the place attracts many athletes.
  
• It’s a little strange, but interesting to see a castle in Vizcaya that is very reminiscent of Bavarian ones. This is Butron Castle, its appearance really owes to the passion of its owners. Despite the fact that the fortress has stood here since the eleventh century, today little remains of it. The castle was rebuilt at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries. At one time the castle was open to visitors, but economically this idea turned out to be unprofitable, as a result Butron was sold and is now closed. It is in a very pleasant location, surrounded by a beautiful forest. Residents of Bilbao often come here for picnics, and it is also a favorite place for wedding photo shoots.
  
• Guernica, probably the most sacred city for the Basques, is located in the Urdabai nature reserve. During the civil war, it was almost completely destroyed; this tragedy was immortalized by Pablo Picasso in the painting of the same name. Thanks to him, Guernica is known today throughout the world. Here, under the Guernica Tree, Basque independence was proclaimed in the 14th century. The real tree was planted on the site of the legendary one much later, at the beginning of the eighteenth century. The Guernica Tree and the Casa de Juntas are political symbols of the Basque Country.
  
• Continuing to explore the picturesque coastal villages and towns, we'll stop by Elantxobe, a tiny village on the slope of Mount Ogonyo. When you look at it from above, it seems that the houses with red tiled roofs are hanging over the sea.
  
• Another picturesque town on the coast of Vizcaya is Lequetiyo. It’s a good place to stay in the summer and spend a week or two on the ocean. The town has two good beaches, a beautiful harbor, and a historical center. The main attraction is the Basilica de Asuncion, dating back to the 15th century.
  

Gipuzkoa

The main city of the province of Guipuzcoa is worthy of a separate story, and you can read about it. Our travels around Spain are never limited to the capitals; sometimes it even seems to me that quiet provincial towns are much more interesting to me.

• When I was getting ready for our first trip to the Basque Country, Getaria seemed to me one of the most attractive towns on the coast. The town did not disappoint. We rented a beautiful apartment among the vineyards of Txakoli and enjoyed walks around Getaria every evening. Here, in a small fishing town, Sebastian Elcano was born, who led Magellan’s trip around the world after his death. This city is also the birthplace of the designer Balenciaga, his museum is open here, I mentioned it in the “Museums” section. Pleasant medieval streets lead you to the port, where there are many fish restaurants. People come here specifically because of the excellent local cuisine. We also joined, I recommend it.

• From Getaria to neighboring Zarouts there is a road and a pedestrian road leading along the coast, which offers views that you will remember for a long time. You can return back through the vineyards - it is difficult to choose which road is more picturesque.

• On the border with France is the town of Hondarribia.

The natural border here is the river and two Basque towns, Ondaia and Hondarribia, facing each other. The old medieval town has many interesting places to see. On the hill rises a castle, which now houses a parador hotel. You can already feel the French neighborhood here, but the town itself has its own atmosphere, and its wooden balconies evoke tenderness and a constant desire to take photographs.

• The small town of Tolosa is famous for its ancient trading traditions, because it is advantageously located on the Oria River on the route connecting the coast with the interior. The Saturday market attracts many tourists and locals. The main specialty of the region is local beans - alubias; there is even a festival in their honor. Also, los chuletones (steaks) and cider are not to be missed. Another gastronomic attraction of this place is the Gorrotxategi confectionery, founded in 1680.

• One of the most monumental cities in the province of Guipuzcoa, Onati is located on the road leading from San Sebastian to Vitoria. The old part of the city is very interesting.

The building of the University of the Holy Spirit, built in the 16th century, is one of the best examples of Basque civil architecture of the Renaissance. The facade of the building, the retablo of the monastery in the Plateresque style and the courtyard - the cloister - are noteworthy.

There are also other attractions in the city: the Church of San Miguel, the Vidaurreta Monastery and the beautiful squares of Los Fuerros, de Auntamento and Santa Marina, surrounded by equally beautiful houses.

Nine kilometers from Oñati there is the Aranzazu sanctuary, with which an ancient legend is associated. Scenic hiking routes through the mountains of the Aizcorri-Aratz Natural Park also start from here.

Alava

The province of Alava is landlocked and even the climate here is different from Vizcaya and Guipuzcoa, which is not surprising, since the entire province is located in a mountainous area. The most interesting city in the province is Vitoria, its capital and also the capital of the entire Basque Country, you can read about it here.

Features of mentality

What kind of people are they, the Basques, who speak a strange ancient language, the origin of which scientists continue to argue about?

Of course, a language unlike any other leaves its mark on the character of the Basques. In the rest of Spain, the Basques are spoken of as reserved, even closed people, generally with a stern northern character. There are many humorous contrasts between Basques and Andalusians online. In real life, especially when you come for one or two weeks, the differences are minimal. Nice, pleasant, sociable people.

I would not like to talk about terrorism and ETA, but this issue always comes up when the Basques are mentioned. Today, when ETA has been condemning terrorism for many years in a row, looking at the calm, measured life in the Basque Country, it is difficult to imagine any dangers awaiting tourists here.

Perhaps today we can talk not about nationalism, but about Basque patriotism. This is manifested in everything: in the language spoken by most of the population, in the flags hung on private balconies, in graffiti (the essence of the inscriptions in Euskera, of course, is impossible to understand), in the traditional Basque berets, in the ubiquitous game of pelota, in the reverent attitude towards your history.

How do modern Basques live? What you notice right away is, perhaps, modern architecture. Even the sleeping areas here are interesting. Everywhere there is a huge number of landscaped parks and squares, playgrounds, beautiful embankments.

The Basques pay great attention to sports. First of all, of course, football.

There are many stadiums, sports grounds, bicycle and jogging paths, and there are often outdoor exercise equipment complexes.

The Basques are very socialized, they organize many different communities of interests, hold various events and competitions. A prime example is San Sebastian's gastronomic communities, many of which date back over a hundred years. And in general, it’s like this everywhere in the Basque Country: no matter what hobbies and interests unite people, meetings at a common table with cider are mandatory.

Curiosity, mystery, anxiety, wariness. Such words appeared in my head when the words Basque Country were uttered.

Why country? After all, I’m already in the country of Spain?

Why a mystery? Being part of Spain and speaking Castilian, a member of the Indo-European family of languages, the Basque Country has a language unlike any other in existence. The origin of this language remains unclear.

After reading a sentence in Basque, the thought arises about the similarity of phonetics with Etruscan. The same impression occurs when comparing the Georgian and Basque texts: Cargo. Kat "si sin movida - “A man has come.” Basque. Kac-i midis - “A man is coming.” http://www.garshin.ru/

Anxiety and wariness due to the famous nationalist separatist organization ETA (Basque Country and Freedom). What are they fighting for, what do they want?

I searched for answers to these questions for several days on my short trip to the Basque Country.

On the Atlantic coast of Spain between the Bay of Biscay and the Cantabrian Mountains is the autonomous region of the Basque Country, whose name in Basque sounds like Euskadi.

The glory of the Basque Country comes from its people, from its language, from its people - energetic, strong, resilient, as if carved from stone, hardened in the fight against the unruly and stormy ocean, winds, endless rains and fogs.

The Basque Country is located in the north of the Iberian Peninsula and consists of three provinces: Alava, Vizcaya, Gipuzkoa.

This is the autonomous region of Euskadi or otherwise Baskonia with its capital in the city of Vitoria.

Vitoria is the name of the city in Spanish and the Basque name Gasteiz is added to this name.

Vitoria-Gasteiz is a city with a population of 241 thousand people. The government and parliament meet in the capital, Vitoria-Gasteiz.

In 2012, the city became the green capital of Europe, and in 2014 the gastronomic capital of Spain.

The heart of the capital of the Basque Country, Virgen Blanca Square

Snow-white Virgin Mary. White color is purity and purity. The legend about the appearance of the cult of the Snow-White Virgin Mary is associated with Rome, where in the summer of 352 snow unexpectedly fell and one of the four papal basilicas of Santa Maria Maggiore was erected on this site.

Every year on December 4th, a character from the Celedón folk festival descends from the bell tower of the San Miguel tower.

In the center of the square is a monument to the victory in the battle of 1813 over the French troops of Joseph Bonaparte.

After the defeat of the French, the British allies discovered paintings by Spanish artists in the French convoy. It is for this reason that in London, in the mansion of the Dukes of Wellington, a large collection of Spanish paintings is kept.

Gothic Church of St. Peter the Apostle, XIV century. The portico of this church with scenes of the acts of Mary and Peter the Apostle.

The façade of this church faces Machete Square. Machete is a long, wide knife. In everyday life of peasants in Latin America, it is used for harvesting sugar cane. In Medieval Vitoria, the machete was an instrument of justice - they cut off the hand of someone who did not fulfill a promise. The townspeople do not object to the return of such a tradition.

A street with countless restaurants. Correria kalea - in Basque. In addition to the famous pintxos appetizers, in Vitoria they prepare blood sausages - morcillos, fabada - roast in all sorts of variations, and octopus on coals.

Carefully! Do not enter this street hungry. It always smells like delicious food here. Pipes from all restaurants are located in one place.

Household little things are also interesting to know. Rains from the Bay of Biscay are an integral part of life; people get used to them and take them into account.

An excellent decision by the city authorities to give away the old city walls for graffiti. They paint the walls not just with whatever comes to mind, but each theme is coordinated with the mayor's office and repeats a historical episode. For example, in front of you is a silk market.

Majestic arch, entrance to the territory of the old city

The path to the relics of St. James in Vitoria runs at the foot of the old Cathedral. On the same street, in an ancient house, you will be fed so that you will remember for a long time, rolling your eyes to the sky.

One of the most beautiful and famous palaces in Vitoria is named after the Marquises of Montehermoso. Maria Pilar Acedo, the young wife of the Marquis of Montehermoso, fell in love with Joseph Bonaparte when their Majesty deigned to attend a gala dinner in his honor held in this palace.

Palace of Villasuso. 1539 Renaissance.

Contains a unique 16th-century tapestry with scenes from Huída de Eneas y su familia de Troya. Currently it houses the Palace of Congresses

Bell tower of the late Gothic church of San Vicente Mártir. The church was built in Vitoria during the era of King Sancho VI of Navarre.

Sancho VI the Wise was the first of the kings to call himself King of Navarre.

10 features of Vitoria - Gasteiz that can be included in your travel program:

1. On foot or by bicycle (the mayor’s office provides it for free) take a stroll through the Green Capital of Europe.
2.Visit the Old Cathedral in construction helmet
3. Have a snack at the pintxos bar with the most exquisite “pintxos-winners” of gastronomic competitions.
4. Tasting, and this is a whole art, such wines that you will then look for in all other cities of Spain.
5. In July, listen to the world's best performers at the jazz festival
6. Visit the Bibat Museum, a museum of archeology and playing cards.
7. Take a look at the pastry shops of the city called Goya, an integral part of the local flavor.
8. Fortress walls that can take you back to the Middle Ages.
9. Walk a part of the pilgrimage route to the relics of St. James.
10. Take a unique route through modern wall paintings.

Everything about the Basques in the book:
Baroja H. Caro. Basque. Translation from Spanish. 2004. 320 p.

Basque Country. Vitoria - Gasteiz. Excursions with a Russian guide.
The article was prepared by Raisa Sinitsyna.
Contacts:

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Basque Country (País Vasco) attracts vacationers with its ideal beaches and mountain peaks, as well as a special spirit unlike any other region in Spain.

Basque Country is located in the north of Spain and has characteristics typical of the northern part of the country, although in the south of the region a Mediterranean climate predominates with hot and dry summers and minimal annual rainfall.

Due to the proximity of the ocean and mountains, the territory is characterized by a favorable climate: without cold in winter and tedious heat in summer.

The Basque Country consists of three provinces and has about two million inhabitants.

One of the provinces Alava(Alava) - a plain covered with vineyards. In the other two Gipuzkoa(Guipuzcoa) and Vizcaya(Vizcaya) The terrain is mostly mountainous and the coastal strips are sandy.

The Basque Country has been granted broad autonomy. The administrative center of the region, Vitoria, is where the parliament sits and the government operates. The Basque language is completely different from Spanish.

Story

Even those who know little about the Basques have probably heard about their struggle for independence and autonomy. Indeed, the Basques are one of the most freedom-loving and proud peoples.

The country's mountainous terrain has allowed the Basque Country and its people to preserve their language and national identity. The three provinces that now make up this region were united only in the 19th century, during the civil wars. In 1876, the Basque Country lost its liberties and became part of the Kingdom of Spain, but the Basques are constantly fighting for independence.

Sights and recreation:

Although the Basque Country is one of the most industrialized areas of Spain, there are still many areas of almost untouched nature in the region, especially the national parks of Valderejo, Urkiola, Urdaibai and the magical landscapes along the Guernica River. The Basque Country is the best region for hiking, golf and all mountain sports. Another attraction is the coast and beaches of the region.

South of Alava are the salt mines of Salinasde Añana, once discovered by the Romans. Salt is still mined here using the same method as many years ago.

Cities

Bilbao(Bilbao) - a city founded at the beginning of the 14th century, the capital of the province of Vizcaya, one of the first ports of Spain, is the industrial center of northern Spain today.

The main attraction of Bilbao is the Guggenheim Foundation Museum of Contemporary Art (Museo Guggenheim Bilbao), dedicated to avant-garde art. The museum was opened in 1997 and in a short time became one of the main attractions in the world. Up to 1.5 million people visit it annually.

Never has a single monument of art and architecture changed the history of an entire city so radically. Thanks to tourism, the city gained a second life in the last century.

San Sebastian(San Sebastián) - A popular seaside resort of the Spanish aristocracy in the last century. The La Concha beach located there is well known outside of Spain. The city's beautiful buildings, superb beaches and vibrant cultural life make it a privileged tourist destination in Spain.

The city is known for its large summer festivals. San Sebastian Film Festival founded in 1953, it is now one of the leading European festivals.

San Sebastian is famous for its sandy beaches. There are three main beaches in the city: Ondaretta(Ondarreta), Zurriola beach and the famous Playa de La Concha(playa de la Concha), which looks like a picturesque bay surrounded by continuous vegetation.

Vitoria(Vitoria) - Vitoria is famous for its active cultural life and several festivals of international importance. The city has a very beautiful old part.

Holidays culture

First of all, the Basque country is famous for its cultural festivals. In addition, the region has preserved a large number of local traditions and holidays.

In August, Bilbao hosts a "herding dog competition". And in Buñol at this time “tomato battles” are taking place, where residents throw tomatoes at each other.

For centuries, the inhabitants of the Basque country have preserved their ancient culture, the special value of which is its language, Euskera(Euskera). The secret of its origin has not yet been revealed.

Kitchen

The Basque Country is famous throughout the world for its special cuisine. They are especially famous cod in garlic sauce, pike fins, huge grilled beef cutlets and eel fry.

1. Basques. From the depths of millennia
A story about the history of any people usually begins with the word “came” - in such and such a century the Celts came there, the Iberians - there, the Visigoths - there... In violation of established traditions, the story about the Basques should begin like this: “ The Vascon tribes have lived on their land since time immemorial, probably since the very creation of the world...” There is almost no exaggeration in this formulation, and the proof of this is the sensational discoveries of archaeologists, which completely changed the idea of ​​when the European continent was inhabited. Not so long ago, in the north of Spain in Atapuerca, scientists discovered the jaw of the ancestor of a person of the modern physical type (Homo antecessor) who lived 1 million 200 thousand years ago! Moreover, this find is not the only one - since the beginning of the 90s, numerous remains of ancient people, primitive tools, animal bones with drawings scratched on them have been discovered in Atapuerca. The likelihood that the ancient inhabitants of the Ebro River Valley are the ancestors of the Basques is very high. The point is not only in the geography of the settlement of the ethnic group - the Basque language itself, Euskara, testifies to the greatest antiquity of this people. Euskara is not associated with any language in the world and, apparently, originated “from scratch” at the dawn of mankind, becoming the first language of southern Europe.
Primitive people lived in caves along the banks of rivers, and many primitive dwellings decorated with rock paintings have survived to this day in France and Spain. For example, near the Basque city of Guernica there are the Santimaminje caves, decorated by ancient artists twelve thousand years ago, and there are similar caves in the French part of Euskadi. The world-famous Altamira is also located very close to the modern administrative border of the Basque autonomy. The famous paintings of the cave - masterpieces, which are about one and a half tens of millennia old, in all likelihood were created by the hands of the original inhabitants of these lands - the ancient predecessors of modern Basques.
In ancient times, the Basques inhabited not only the Iberian Peninsula, but also part of the territory of France and Belgium, but gradually other peoples who came to Europe pushed them to the very ends of the earth under the protection of the Cantabrian Mountains. This territory became the last bridgehead from which there was no longer a path to retreat. The Basques, hardworking creators, often had to take up the sword, in fierce battles defending not only their lands, but also the very right to exist as a single people. In ancient times they opposed the Celts, Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Visigoths, Franks, Normans; in the Middle Ages - to the Moors, and much later - to Napoleonic guards. Throughout their history, the people of Euskadi have not submitted to any invader, and even the mighty Rome was only able to partially conquer the Basque territories. It was this fanatical resilience that allowed the Basques to preserve their unique language and traditions. For Rome, they remained a mysterious, incomprehensible and unconquered people of seers, famous throughout the empire for their art of foreseeing the future. And yet, not a single soothsayer could predict what fate awaited both the Roman Empire and the Basques themselves...
Rome fell, swept away by an avalanche of barbarians, and cruel suffering swept over the Iberian Peninsula. Then the barbarians were replaced by the Visigoths, and several centuries later new invaders - the Arabs and Moors (Berbers). In 709, they invaded the territory of the Visigothic Kingdom (the southern neighbor of the Basques), and five years later they already controlled almost the entire peninsula. Only a small area between the Cantabrian Mountains and the Bay of Biscay, inhabited by Cantabras, Asturs and Basques, remained unoccupied. The remnants of the Visigothic army who fled to Asturias received the support of the local population, and in 718 they defeated the Moors for the first time. This date is considered to be the beginning of the Reconquista (reconquest) - the process of liberation by Christians of lands occupied by Muslims. The Reconquista lasted almost eight centuries and ended only in 1492.
During the early Middle Ages, several Basque states were located on the territory of Euskadi, which retained their independence until the 11th-14th centuries. However, the strengthening of Spanish statehood led to the fact that by the beginning of the 16th century the Basques formally became part of the kingdom. However, it should be noted that, despite the partial loss of Basque sovereignty, the Spanish monarchs recognized the independence of this people, as evidenced by many documents of that era.
The turn of the 15th-16th centuries, marked by the completion of the Reconquista and the discovery of America, became a turning point for Spain that changed the history of the country. The Spanish state owed much of its power to the Basques, whose role in the discovery and development of the American continent can hardly be overestimated. The sailors of Euskadi probably crossed the Atlantic more than once before Columbus, and therefore it is no coincidence that the Basques became the core of the Genoese expedition and the captains of all his caravels. The participation of the Basques in the colonization of the New World, their active mediation in trade with France, Italy and England, and the development of the metallurgical and shipbuilding industries created a powerful economic basis for the development of Spain.
The intersection of economic interests, as well as the relative weakness of the central government, allowed Euskadi to maintain a special status for several centuries. Privileges in trade, taxation, military service, administration and foreign relations were enshrined in the code of Basque laws (fueros), and had to be confirmed by each Spanish monarch upon his accession to the throne. The king was to visit the spiritual capital of Euskadi, Guernica, and swear before the sacred oak tree to respect the rights and freedoms of the Basques.
Until the middle of the 19th century, the Basque provinces of Araba (Alava), Gipuzkoa and Vizcaya retained their ancient cartas, but the intensified forced Spanishization of Euskadi, Catalonia and Galicia at that time became the main reason for the Basques to join the Carlist movement. The sad result of participation in two Carlist wars (dynastic wars between two branches of the Spanish Bourbons in the 30s and 70s of the 19th century) for the Basques was first a partial and then a complete loss of autonomy and the abolition of fueros.
By the beginning of the 20th century, Euskadi had lost its freedom, but retained a leading role in the Spanish economy. More than half of the total number of Spanish ships were built in the shipyards of the Basque Country, 45% of the turnover of the Spanish merchant fleet was also provided by supplies from the Basque provinces, and by the 30s of the 20th century the Basques mined half of all iron ore and smelted three quarters of all Spanish steel.
Republics and dictatorships replaced each other as if in a kaleidoscope on the Iberian Peninsula. In 1931, the Republicans once again came to power in Spain, intending to return the Basques to their legal rights, but the rule of the left was short-lived. In July 1936, the army led by General Franco tried to seize power in the country. The fascist rebellion, supported by Hitler and Mussolini, escalated into the Civil War. In this war, the Basques sided with the Republicans, for which they were subjected to severe repression during the Franco dictatorship. In 1979, four years after the death of the dictator, Euskadi received the status of political autonomy, and its language, along with Spanish, became the official language of the Autonomous Basque Community and Navarre. At the moment, both communities have their own governments and autonomous parliaments.
The history of the Basque people stretches back to an unimaginably distant past. What lies ahead for the Basques? What lies ahead for other peoples and countries? Here and now we are all writing a new page in world history. What it will turn out to be is unknown...

2. Soul of Euskadi
The origins of the Basques are shrouded in mystery. Despite the great variety of hypotheses, no one knows for certain how this unique ethnic group arose. Some researchers see them as direct descendants of the Cro-Magnons, who settled the territory of the European continent about 35 thousand years ago, while others believe that the Basques are Atlanteans who survived the disaster. But in any case, no matter which version is preferred, the Basques can be considered the most ancient, indigenous population of Europe, who settled there long before other peoples.
The legendary ethnic group is surrounded by an aura of myths, but anyone who strives to know and understand the Basques must begin to get acquainted with euskara - the language that has become the soul of this people. It is significant that Euskara does not have the word “Basque”, only euskaldunak – literally: “people who speak Basque”. What is Euskara? Back in the 16th century, it was suggested that the Basque language is the “progenitor” of all the relict languages ​​of the Iberian Peninsula, that is, the first, oldest means of communication in southern Europe. The mystery of its origin has haunted the minds of scientists for almost two centuries, trying to trace the genealogy of Euskara. Extinct Iberian and Etruscan; Japanese, Korean, Finno-Ugric, languages ​​of American Indians and the peoples of the Caucasus - this is not a complete list of candidates for kinship with the Basque language. But all these connections turned out to be unconvincing, and therefore philologists agreed to consider Euskara the only living relict pre-Indo-European language “outside the group”.
The Basque language undoubtedly belongs to the world cultural heritage, belonging to all humanity. It represents not only a monument to the past, but perhaps a key to unraveling the mechanism of thinking. Isolation, antiquity, and connection to the place of its origin allow scientists to “go back in time” and understand how our distant ancestors created the first language, how associations, feelings and thoughts born in the brain were put into the form of words, how speech was formed.
An unusual feeling arises for those who are learning the Basque language for the first time. Sometimes Basque words heard for the first time seem very familiar, as if they were always in my head, but for some reason they were forgotten. Some of them, completely unlike Russian ones, associatively seem to be the most correct, original name for any objects or phenomena. By the way, let me make a small remark - Euskara has been compared with everything, but not with the Russian language! Of course, formally, from the point of view of philologists, these languages ​​are in no way related to each other, but they are easily comparable in complexity, richness of vocabulary, beauty and expressiveness.
Euskara is unique. But humanity easily partes with its treasures, and the Basque language could join the list of irreparable losses if not for the heroic efforts of the Basques themselves aimed at preserving it. For centuries, they desperately defended their land, never submitting to any conqueror, preserving their age-old foundations and native language. Direct aggression always received a worthy rebuff, but Euskara lay in wait for another, not so obvious threat of gradual displacement by the French and, above all, Spanish languages. Most of the population of Euskadi did not speak written language, which made the position of the Basque language especially vulnerable. However, the desire of the Basques to preserve their main heritage was reflected even in the title of the first incunabula in Euskara, “The First Fruits of the Basque Language” by Bernard Etxepare, published in 1545.
A deeper study of the Basque language began only in the 19th century. A great contribution to this process was made by the nephew of Napoleon I, Prince Louis-Lucien Bonaparte, who organized five expeditions to Euskadi, the purpose of which was to study and classify various dialects. However, the Academy of the Basque Language, which began its work in 1920, played a key role in the standardization of Euskara. Its members faced the difficult task of bringing together and codifying several dialects, and then disseminating the supposed standards to a largely illiterate population. The situation was further complicated by the fact that at that time the Basque language did not have access to the media and educational institutions. Despite the difficulties, the work of scientists was in full swing, until disaster struck - a fascist rebellion broke out in Spain, and the Civil War began.
After Franco’s victory, the Basques who sided with the Republicans began to be subjected to repression, and in 1939 the fascists issued a decree according to which, for the first time in world history, the entire population of the provinces of Gipuzkoa and Vizcaya was declared “traitors to the homeland.” The dictator’s revenge was not only carpet bombing, arrests and torture - Franco wanted to deal the most sensitive blow to the rebellious people by banning any, including oral, use of the Basque language. Even children were severely punished for daring to speak Euskara. At the same time, disregarding mortal danger, the Academy of the Basque Language continued its work. The chronology of these purely scientific research might seem uninteresting if it were not considered in the context of the repressions unfolding in Euskadi. Finally, in 1973, a new language standard, called euskara batua (united Basque), was adopted in its final version.
However, it was only after Franco's death and Euskadi's status as an autonomous region that the Basques were able to take full advantage of the work of several generations of scientists. Today, Euskara Batua is the leading version of the Basque language, which, along with the official Spanish, is used for communications, including newspapers, radio and the Internet.
This is the history of the oldest language in Europe - tough, tragic, but giving hope. The hope is that by preserving the soul of the people - their language, one can overcome any trials and earn the right to the future.

3. Euskal Erria. Journey through a magical land
Euskal Erria, Euskadi... The mysterious name of a magical country. You won’t find it on any official map, but this country of fantastic sunsets, emerald mountains and picturesque valleys lives in the hearts of people. For her freedom, from century to century they shed their blood abundantly, for love for her they went to death.
So what does Euskadi represent? On the Atlantic coast of Spain between the Bay of Biscay and the Cantabrian Mountains is the autonomous region of the Basque Country (Pais Vasco), whose name in Basque sounds like Euskadi or Euskal Herria. But this area is only part of a land covered in legends, about a third of the territory now inhabited by Basques. History developed in such a way that back in the 15th century Euskadi was divided between Spain and France, but still remained a space of one people, one language. Therefore, when telling a story about the Basque Country, it is logical to take into account the boundaries of the settlement of the ethnic group, and not the lines on the map reflecting the modern borders of neighboring states and provinces.
The proximity of three languages ​​- Spanish, French and Basque (Euskara) has led to the fact that some settlements in Euskadi have two or even three names. Therefore, to avoid confusion, the description will first indicate the Basque names of cities and provinces, and then, in brackets, the Spanish or French ones.
The Basque lands include the provinces of Araba (Alava), Vizcaya, Gipuzkoa in Spain, which make up the so-called autonomous community of the Basque Country, the province of Nafarroa (Navarre), as well as three small provinces in France, part of the department of the Pyrenees-Atlantiques: Lapurdi (Labour), Behenafarroa (Bass Navarre) and Suberoa (Sul). The French Basque Country is called Northern Euskadi - Iparraldea, and the Spanish - Southern Euskadi - Hegoaldea.
Euskadi has a population of about three million people, of whom approximately one million are Basque. More than 860 thousand Basques live in Spain, 140 thousand live in France. The Basque diaspora in Latin America and the United States numbers 120 thousand people. Despite the fact that the Basques are similar in appearance to the Spaniards and the French, they have the lowest prevalence of the gene for the third blood group (initially it was completely absent) and the highest concentration of the gene for the oldest, first blood group. More than 50% of Basques have a negative Rh factor, significantly higher than the European average of 16%. The anthropological characteristics of the Basques allowed scientists to put forward a hypothesis about the origin of this people directly from the Cro-Magnons.
Just as the people who inhabit Euskadi are unusual, so is the climate of the Basque Country atypical for most of the Iberian Peninsula. In our minds, the image of Spain has long been formed - a sultry, sun-scorched country of bullfighting and flamenco, but the north of the peninsula completely refutes this stereotype. It is no coincidence that Galicia, Asturias, Cantabria, Euskadi are called “green Spain”. The humid but fairly warm climate gives these areas a surprisingly rich flora. Winters in the Basque Country are cool, but not frosty (+6 +9), summers are not hot (approx. +20), and it often rains. The vegetation is diverse - almost all the trees of the middle zone are found in Euskadi: oak, beech, alder, ash, birch, maple, poplar, willow, but in addition to them, artificially planted palm trees also survive in this climate. Apple orchards and huge vineyards are also an integral part of the picturesque landscapes of the Basque Country.
Euskadi occupies a small area with a total area of ​​about 20 thousand square meters. km (of which 17,655 are in Spain), however, this small corner of the Atlantic coast attracts with its diversity of landscapes and the unique flavor of its settlements. The sights of the Basque lands deserve a separate story, so this article provides only very brief information about the main cities of Euskadi.

Province of Araba (Alava)
Gasteiz (Vitoria) is the capital of the Basque Country with a population of 210 thousand people. The city was founded at the end of the 12th century by the Navarrese king Sancho the Wise. Gasteiz is home to the government and parliament of the Basque Country. The bilingual inscription on the facade of the administrative building reads: “We need peace.” The historic city center is located on a high hill. In the heart of the old quarters is the Church of San Miguel with a statue of the White Virgin, the patroness of the city, installed above the entrance. In the past, a cleaver-machete was kept in this church - a symbol of Gasteiz's independence, on which the rulers of the city swore to uphold its laws. In Gasteiz there is the Museum of Archeology, an exposition of Basque life, arranged in the premises of a 15th-century inn; a few kilometers from the city, in an ancient castle, there is the Museum of Heraldry.
However, Gasteiz lives not only in the past; it has many industrial enterprises, primarily metallurgical and mechanical engineering. Despite this, the capital Euskadi is considered one of the cleanest cities in all of Spain. In the vicinity of the city there are salt mines and reservoirs.

Province of Vizcaya
Bilbo (Bilbao) was founded by the lord of Vizcaya, Diego Lopez de Haro, in 1300 on the site of a small village. Surrounded by hills, the city lies on the banks of the Nrvion River near the Atlantic coast.
Over its long history, the city was under siege several times, during the Civil War of 1936-1939. lay in ruins. Now with 370 thousand inhabitants, Bilbo is the largest commercial port in Spain and one of the largest centers in Europe for shipbuilding, steel production and chemical fertilizers. The city has well-developed public transport; in 2000, its organization was recognized as the best in the European Union.
The newly built S. Guggenheim Museum of Modern Art helped create Bilbo's reputation not only as an industrial center, but also as a tourist attraction. Frozen above the river, a grandiose, silver-shimmering, abstract structure, called the symbol of the new computer age, has become the hallmark of the city and attracts tens of thousands of tourists from all over the world to Bilbo.

Guernica. A small city in the province of Vizcaya, with a population of only 16 thousand people. Guernica is called the spiritual capital of Euskadi, giving it a special role in the history of the Basque Country. From time immemorial, the leaders and elders of this people gathered here under the shade of the “Basque oak”; here the Spanish monarch confirmed the privileges enshrined in the code of Basque laws. It is no coincidence that, wanting to take revenge on the rebellious people, the fascist dictator Franco chose Guernica as his target. At the height of the Civil War, on April 26, 1937, the peaceful city, for the first time in human history, was subjected to massive bombing by German aircraft, which led to a large number of casualties among the population. Shocked by this tragedy, P. Picasso wrote his famous painting “Guernica,” recognized as one of the most powerful works of art exposing the horrors of war.
Currently, in the city garden of Guernica there is a young oak tree growing from an acorn of the sacred oak. Near this place is the Casa de Juntas, where Euskadi was declared autonomous in 1979.
Not far from the city are the caves of Santimamise, decorated with rock paintings made 12 thousand years ago.

Province of Guipuzcoa
Donostia (San Sebastian). A beautiful resort town, home to film festivals and other social events. Donostia has 180 thousand inhabitants. The most recognizable landmark of the city is a cozy bay surrounded by a golden strip of beaches, in the center of which is the island of Santa Clara, which looks like a huge turtle.
Although Donostia is the most fashionable resort in the north of Spain, industry, including metalworking and engineering, is well developed in it, as indeed in all major cities of Euskadi.

Province of Nafarroa (Navarre)
Iruña (Pamplona) was the capital of the Kingdom of Navarre in the Middle Ages. Now Irunya has 180 thousand inhabitants. The city has a university and industrial enterprises. The Spanish name of the city of Pamplona became widely known thanks to E. Hemingway’s novel “Fiesta”. As in the time of Hemingway, the feast of Saint Fermin is held annually in Iruña with the obligatory run of bulls through the city streets to the bullfighting site. Many tourists from Europe and America come to the holiday to take part in risky entertainment and test their courage, dodging angry bulls rushing through the narrow streets.

Iparalde (Northern Euskadi)
The greatest fame for the French provinces of Euskadi came from the resorts on the Atlantic coast - Bayonne (Bayonne) - the capital of the province of Lapurdi (Labour) and nearby Biaritz. The mild climate, beautiful sandy beaches, and comfortable hotels attract tens of thousands of tourists from all over the world to these cities. Biarritz hosts annual golf and windsurfing competitions, and local windsurfing schools are considered the best in Europe. Baiona, a city that has largely preserved its medieval appearance, is known not only for its architectural sights, but also for its culinary traditions - its unique chocolate and ham.
On the road from Baiona to Donibane Garassie (Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port) - the main city of the province of Behenafarroa (Basse-Navarre) there are the caves of Oxozelaya, which means “Wolf Paradise”. In the caves you can see prehistoric rock art, a cluster of stalactites and stalagmites.
And the city of Maule (Moleon) in the province of Suberoa (Sul) is primarily perceived as the center of the Suleti dialect - the most different from other dialects of the Basque language.